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blind on right eyeWhenever we ask any traveller what was their most memorable place in Cambodia, they always say Angkor Wat. Not a very surprising answer as in the end this is Cambodian, if not Southeast Asian most important historical treasure. If you ask us the same question, we will say - probably to your surprise - that it was Mondulkiri Province and Elephant Valley to be precise. If you follow our blog you probably noticed how big of animal lovers we are, however as much as it was a reason for us to go there, it was not the only reason why we loved it so much.
We read about EVP (Elephant Valley Project) based in Sen Monorom in Lonely Planet but what you read is a mere glimpse of what you meet when you arrive. When doing research about elephant projects in Asia I came across a very informative which gave me all sorts of information about life of elephants, their living conditions and future that awaits them. I was also shocked by some stories that to be honest took place mostly in Thailand. This NGO however had amazing report on good work that EVP is doing in Cambodia and that
only convinced us that this was the place we wanted to visit. We needed some encouragement and convincing as we did not want to take part in any of the commercial elephant businesses and also it was an expense above our budget so we had to know we would spend it wisely.
off the beaten track.. Sen Monorom is only 4h ride by minivan from Kratie. Easier said than done as this minivans are packed to their limits. For 14 places (including driver) we had 28 people on board plus luggages and two scooters on the rack. There was 6 of us – westerners – and we all had individual seats and local people had to share the rest of the space plus extra bench and some of them also sat on the scooter rack. Even driver shared his seat with 2 people – can you believe that? Maybe it is the way they do it in Asia but why on earth local people agree to this, it is beyond my thinking. They pay for this transport in the end, right? Anyhow when we arrived in Sen Monorom we went straight to the Green House – very cool
restaurant and bar that acts as a pick up point for EVP visitors. We wanted to stay few days in the valley and we opted for a volunteering part of a project. What it allows you is to spent half day with the elephants and do half day of any work they need in that particular moment. We also opted for a bungalow accommodation on site which was this incredible place overlooking a jungle. We were stunned when we got there as we could not believe that flat and dry Cambodia has places like that to offer (details of costs at the end of the blog).
We got beautiful triple room just for our own disposal so staying there actually works cheaper than in town as it includes food and drinks. We had a great dinner (they have very skilful chef over there) followed by nice evening in a company of other travellers and volunteers and we were all more than excited for another day. Out of 6 of us in a minivan, 4 of us came to EVP. We bonded really quickly with Gemma and Tom (from UK) and then met two American girls, Rachel and Lisa that
we did the volunteering with. Straight after breakfast we were taken to the top of the hill for a short briefing by Jack (the men who set it up all there) and his co-worker who was our guide for a day.
protecting elephants is their goal We were told about problems they face within Phnong villages in the province that is constantly in danger of being deforested and sold to Chinese merchants. There is a lot of world organisations working in the region to protect natural environment, rare animals and Phnong heritage. EVP works for protecting elephants but in order to do this they have to do a lot of other things such as working with villagers to register land to them, providing medical care for villagers and their children (in case of any accident they fly them to Phnom Penh), pay for boarding schools and food for children, educate them about elephant welfare etc. They do it all to keep Phnong people happy and cooperative and they want them to see them as supporters and not as some white people who arrived in their land to do their stuff. When Jack come up with this idea he
simply went around villages and ask their chiefs if they can do this together. That is how he gained everybody’s acceptance and help and that is what we liked the most about his initiative.
Elephants have been used for work by Phnong people for centuries and their history is inseparable, however most of the knowledge of how to look after elephants has been lost by now. EVP also makes sure that all elephants in the province are in well condition by making constant visits to the villages. If they see any mistreatment or malnourished animal they try to buy it off (around $15k and a very long process of negotiations as elephant usually belongs to many families) or they try to bring it to the project by
'renting' it from its owners. They actually prefer the latter as then Phnong people have constant source of income in oppose to one off money pay-off. They also have an opportunity to work as a mahout (elephant keeper) which gives them stable job. At the moment EVP has 10 elephants they keep in a valley but visitors' money also provides for working elephants in the villages. The elephants are split by two
groups depending of how long they have been in a project for reasons we we could not believe they existed.
lucky to get a second chance In the morning we met the first, young group of EVP protégées. There is only one male in a project called Bob and it took him a while to adjust to his new life. He is always followed by Onion – young and tiny (as for elephant) female who chose Bob as her life partner. They are always together and apparently Onion shows signs of jealousy when other females are around. They lead life on their own and like to be away from the pack. What is interesting in their relationship is the fact that at first they didn't know how to mate...this is how severe consequences can be when baby elephant is taken from a wild – they can be stripped from such basic instinct as this...
But they all have to learn how to be elephants again. When they arrive in EVP they don't know how to bath themselves in a river as they probably had never seen a river before. Their owners don't care about their natural way
of leaving. This new recruits have to be helped with washing and we could splash some water on them for a while. They also don't know how to just go into the jungle and do what ever they please – they had to learn that as well. It is so sad. Some of the females (especially the newest ones) keep distance from each other as they are afraid of each other. Potentially before arriving in EVP they had never seen another elephant. They are chained at night so that don't go back to their villages. They have 20 meter long chain and still most of them wont go more than 4-5m away as that was the length of a chain they had all their lives. One female elephant in the project arrived with a tight rope around her neck so it was immediately removed but she decided to carry it with her trunk around for a while as it was the only thing she knew was her since being a baby – such intelligent creatures!!! Mahouts have to teach them to drink a lot as some of the Phnong people believe that elephants are magical animals and they don't need
water!!!! They were working thirsty most of the time. This is where the education provided by EVP comes in – very needed.
The second group of elephants was more relaxed and playful. They can do most of the things themselves and they seem fine. They also seem to have happier eyes if that makes sense as if they finally understood that they can be elephants again. EVP believes that riding elephant is not good for them (and it collides with them 'being wild'😉 so we spent our time there following elephants through the jungle and learning how their day looks like. We could touch them a little bit, we were sniffed by some more brave ones as well but that was all. It was truly amazing experience and we got so much more appreciation for elephants. Loved every bit of it and loved the work Jack and his team is doing. I cannot believe that he achieved so much within just 6 years of work. What EVP needs is more endorsement as majority of people coming to Sem Monorom still choose elephant treks over EVP ;-(
Did you know?: * elephants can safely carry only 10%!o(MISSING)f
their weight which means that a sitting basket and 3 people is already too much for them – elephants treks harm their spine and we saw effects of this on our eyes
* elephants have to eat most of the day and night to be healthy so when they work they cannot eat (are forbidden to eat, and they learn it the hard way when being trained) so another reason not to do the treks
* elephants die by starvation when the last set of their teeth is gone ;-( so sad!
* most of the working elephants are blind on their right eye as they are being hit by a stick during training that leads to eyesight loss (most people are right-handed)
* Chinese medicine causes big problem when it comes to elephant body parts – they use parts of tail and skin from 'private parts' of females to supposedly treat fertility problems (one of the females in EVP had massive skin infection because its owner needed money)
* tusks are often beaten out of a male elephant to prevent killing (as he needs to work) which causes enormous pain to the animal
* females blow air in their 'private parts' for some unknown reason – any idea why? It looks so funny and sweet in the same time when you watch it;-)
Additional note about EVP: *
To stay in EVP you need to contact them first through http://www.elephantvalleyproject.org/, unless it is not in high season. You can either choose from private bungalow (amazing standard) for 25$ each person inclusive of food or budget accommodation which is shared bungalow (but they have single rooms in them) for 12,5$ each with food. ** Full day with elephants 50$ and volunteering option 25$ per day Additional Note - Summary of Cambodia: •
25 days, 7 towns and a few villages •
our favourite place: Elephant Valley and Angkor Complex (hard choice, hmmm) •
our favourite food: Lok Lak in Kampot •
our favourite landscape: Elephant Valley in Sen Monorom and Kampot villages •
our favourite activities: boat to see fresh water dolphins in Kratie •
our favourite hotel/guest-house: accommodation provided by EVP in Sen Monorom •
least favourite thing about Cambodia: attitude of some Tuk-Tuk drivers we met but it could be just our luck;-) We absolutely loved Cambodia •
our cost per day incl. visa and transport: 27£/43$ per day for both of us (same as Vietnam)
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Monique
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What an experience!!!!
B&T this looks like such a wonderful & worthwhile experience which should be shared with travellers. Loved the commentary and photos.