Blogs from Burma, Asia - page 8

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Asia » Burma December 31st 2017

Burma, or Myanmar, surprises in many ways. It was the 3rd and final new destination this year and it's refreshing to visit a country that's opening up rapidly to tourism. The infrastructure (roads, buildings) far 'exceeding' what we have expected. Most locals are able to understand and speak good English, and they are 99% friendly towards foreigners, unlike certain overly-visited places in the region. We even met some Burmese who worked in Singapore previously and enthusiastically shared their experiences with us. Though a short 5 days trip with Steph and friends, it was a good break from the monotony of city life, relaxing in a vastly different environment. Listing down some of the interesting observations to remember: - Ladies apply Thanaka on the faces, giving an instant recognisable look that they are natives - Men wear ... read more
Sunrise at Bagan
Sunset at Bagan
Boating in Inle Lake

Asia » Burma » Southern Burma » Mawlamyine November 26th 2017

Rudyard Kipling spent only a few unscheduled hours in Moulmein (now Mawlamyine), by then the former capital of British Burma, on his way home – via America – from India in 1889, but it nevertheless managed to inspire the opening line of one of his most memorable poems, “Mandalay”. Having first encountered the poem only just before I left the UK, I found it getting under my skin as I travelled around Myanmar almost 130 years’ after Kipling’s visit. “But that’s all shove be’ind me - long ago an’ fur away An’ there ain’t no ’busses runnin’ from the Bank to Mandalay; An’ I'm learnin’ ’ere in London what the ten-year soldier tells: “If you've ’eard the East a-callin’, you won’t never ’eed naught else.”” It felt so resonant for me, as I combine my first ... read more
Kyaikthanian Paya
orchids for sale, Myine Yadanar Zei
colourful bananas, Myine Yadanar Zei

Asia » Burma » Southern Burma » Dawei November 24th 2017

Southern Myanmar is a long tail of land that, for more than 1,200 km, abuts Thailand, the Tenasserim Hills and their subranges forming the border. Time was now against me, which meant I couldn’t fly to Myeik, the most southerly airport open for tourists, because of the painfully long time it would take me to wend my way north again by bus (there are no flights between airports in the south; everything goes through Yangon). Instead, I opted to fly to Dawei, about halfway down (as it were), and head out to Maungmagan on the coast, and make my way back overland from there. Once released by the airport – although it was a domestic flight, passport and visa checks were carried out, as they have been almost every time I’ve crossed a state border here ... read more
selfie-taking monks
Maungmagan beach
relaunching the boats

Asia » Burma November 20th 2017

Off to the beach for a few days of doing nothing. The relaxation starts early with the first late start of the holiday. Our guide takes us to the airport, where she suddenly says goodbye and vanishes leaving a colleague to help us check in. We forget to tip her in the confusion, and David dashes back after her with her tip, for which she seems genuinely grateful. Her colleague is wearing a thick pink woollen cost, clearly necessary on a day when it’s only 28C. She checks us in and presents our passport to the immigration desk. It seems that foreigners have to be checked in and out of each airport that is located in one of the States, such as Shan State where we are now. We go through the most cursory security check ... read more
Big red sand crab
Bringing in the boat at Ngapali
Fish lanterns

Asia » Burma November 15th 2017

We wake to the sound of rain. Pouring rain. This is not good when we are due to set off on our second boat trip at 8.00am. But postponing to the afternoon is not an option, so we don the tasteful pink ground length rain ponchos helpfully provided by the boatman, hold tight to our umbrellas and set off for a 45 minute ride across the lake to a town hosting market day. David is elected by Sara and the guide to ride in front, so the two of them cower behind him as he takes the full brunt of the driving rain, his umbrella held rigidly out front. Arriving at the market, we decide it’s best to wear our walking boots rather than our flipflops to walk around in, and this proves a sound choice, ... read more
Inle Lake market day in the rain
A wet boat ride to Inthein
Stupas at Inthein

Asia » Burma November 14th 2017

Our guide meets us with her boatman and his long tail boat at 8am for our first foray onto Inle Lake. We negotiate the narrow waterway between the first floating gardens we encounter before we get onto the lake proper, at which points the boatman opens the throttle and we start moving at speed, the bow lifting out of the water. Not sure how fast we are going but it is quite fun, a rather satisfying bow wave and a plume of water from the outboard. We slow for the first of the “one legged” fisherman we encounter. He doesn’t really have one leg, or he would fall over, but he has one foot on the narrow punt-like end of his boat, the other leg controlling the long vertical paddle/steering rudder that he places behind his ... read more
Picking produce to take to market
Collecting plants to make a floating garden
Stilt houses

Asia » Burma November 14th 2017

Looking back on my eight days wandering around Myanmar’s two most famous archaeological sites, I realise that so much of what I would say about one is by reference to or in contrast with the other, I thought I’d write about them together. (My apologies: this will mean even more photographs than usual.) Bagan tends to be regarded as THE must-visit site in Myanmar. Even Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda and Inle Lake, with its leg-rowing fishermen, take a back seat to this extraordinary 40 square mile area and its two/three/four/ten thousand temples, pagodas and monasteries (no-one comes up with a consistent number either of those constructed or of what remains) from the eleventh to thirteenth centuries when Bagan (Pagan) was the capital of the Pagan Empire, the first kingdom to unify regions that would later constitute modern-day ... read more
parasol, anyone?
corner detail
glorious in the evening light

Asia » Burma » Western Burma November 14th 2017

I’d long wanted to take a boat down (or up, I wasn’t fussy, although travelling immediately post-monsoon suggested downriver would be quicker) the Irrawaddy, the age-old “road to Mandalay”, for the sheer romance of it, but the logistics involved in trying to fit in everything that I wanted to do during this trip in a vaguely logical manner did not permit. In consolation – although, realistically, I had no other option for this particular journey – I decided to take the boat from Mrauk U to Sittwe, winding along the tributaries of, and debauching into, the Kaladan River which, at Sittwe, then joins the Andaman Sea. After the excitements involved in getting to Mrauk U, a bus journey of a little over 21 hours, a serene 4½-hour boat trip sounded sublime, even if it did involve ... read more
fishing
a very delicate exercise
the morning commute

Asia » Burma November 13th 2017

Win Bo and our driver collect us at the civilised time of 745am for the 20 minute drive to Nyaung U airport for our flight to Heho (pronounced “Hur-ho”) which is the nearest airport to Inle Lake. The airport exterior is designed to look like a temple. Inside everyone mills around the “all flights check in” desk. A man cursorily weighs our bags and then sticks two tags on them before wandering off with them. We are given a red sticker to put on our shirts to show where we are going, and then herded into the departure area with all the other passengers. The X-ray machine picks up three of the four bottles of water in Sara's carry on. “You leave on table please not allowed”. Sara: “OK” and unloads three of the four bottles ... read more
Buddhas in Pindaya cave
Pindaya cave
Shwe Yan Pyay monastery

Asia » Burma » Western Burma » Mrauk U November 12th 2017

In a little text box in the Bagan chapter of the new edition of the Book, it proudly proclaimed: “A new overland service connects Bagan with Mrauk U…” This was enough to hook me when I was planning this trip. Otherwise, getting between Myanmar’s two most famous archaeological sites involves two planes and a boat, none of which connect, which means a minimum of three days’ travelling. It’s only 479 km, but, as I had quickly learned on arriving here, the number of kilometres has no bearing on the time involved. Historically, the bus option necessitated backtracking almost to Mandalay, I believe, which, on the basis of the last 24 hours’ experience would be, err, suboptimal. And so, my first afternoon in Nyaung U, the transport hub for the Bagan area, I tootled off to talk ... read more
not exactly a bus station
river crossing
the shrine at the Kyaukpadraung café




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