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Published: August 6th 2007
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Bagan was once the capital city of Myanmar at its prime between 1084 and 1286AD. At that time the king started a temple building extravaganza raising nearly 4500 temples over that 250 year period. It is a spectacular view with nearly 2000 temples remaining that speckle the countryside and mountains looming across the Irrawaddy river.
For two days we were shuttled around via horse cart. Our first day out we had an "aged" horse who limbered around so slowly bicyclists would pass us. The following day we got a younger, friskier horse named Lucky who pranced around rather quickly. Lucky seemed to be jet propelled by his farts. To get moving some gas had to be released, and once on the dusty dirt trail another round of farts was expelled much to the dismay of Jarrod in the front seat.
Many of the temples were still active and monks would be sitting on the window sills in the shade during the midday heat. Other orange robed monks would be found kneeling, head down in quiet meditation in front of a giant sized Buddha. Most of the temples were quiet and peaceful inside with narrow, dark stairways leading up to
second story platforms with a view over the plains. The entrance walkways into more popular temples were lined with venders selling trinkets from sand paintings, marionettes, fake rubies and other dust collecting nick nacks. Inside children would follow you around complimenting you (Jarrod looked like a movie star, even though he badly needs a hair cut) and becoming your new best friend just to try and make a postcard sale. Most of the kids were fun to talk to and we didn't mind teasing them back and making conversation.
Transportation out of Bagan was scarce and the buses were all backlogged because they weren't running during the Water Festival which had ended a few days before. So, we were forced to travel a little more upper crust and shared a taxi with our travel buddy, Michael, back down to Yangon. The taxi ride was pleasant enough. My heart jumped once when the brakes were slammed on to avoid who knows what and our bare tires just skidded on the road. And there were only three stops for maintenance issues:
Stop #1 because we were out of power steering fluid yet the shop had none in stock so it
never ended up being refilled
Stop #2 because we had to refuel since the gas tank was leaking fuel once filled to capacity. No problem, just throw a bucket of water underneath the car to wash the excess away. Explosion or fire hazard: not likely.
Stop #3 because our brakes failed. Thankfully we were just leaving a town and a repair shop was near by to re-weld our worn brake cable. Only a half hour stop and then we were on our way again.
Just one nights rest in Yangon and then off on the early morning bus to the village beach town of Ngwe Saung. With the help of a Frenchman who visited Ngwe Saung just a month earlier we found a nice bungalow with a view of palm trees and the ocean from our balcony. The sand was clean and beautiful, but best of all, it lead to warm water with gentle waves crashing on shore. In the afternoon we were out for a swim and befriended a local family on holiday. They invited us for lunch at their room and we expected something basic: noodles and rice with curry. Instead, we were presented with a plateful
Ngwe Saung Beach
Our last stop in Myanmar of prawns and a crab with legs as thick as my wrist! We chatted for an hour or two and learned that they lived in Yangon, ran a family music business and also sold imported cars on the side.
The following day was more relaxation reading books on the balcony (much too hot to be out in the sun on the beach all day) and taking a quick dip to cool down. Unfortunately, our visa was about to expire and after only two days we needed to get back to Yangon in time for our flight out of the country.
We were back in Yangon at our hotel for only an hour or two when a phone call came in for us - it was our Burmese friend from the beach and he wanted us to join his family for dinner that night. We gratefully accepted the offer and ate a delicious dinner at their house and then were treated to cold drinks downtown and then a visit to the river to conclude the night.
The hospitality and friendliness of the Burmese never ceased to amaze us and it was a delightful end to our stay in
Myanmar.
Next Stop: Manila, Philippines
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Anna
non-member comment
transport
I was worried when you were riding the bike around... now I need to worry about the taxis too! Perhaps you should train? I think that is safe ;) Miss you!