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Published: December 23rd 2012
Pantang Eco Lodge
Our little party of travellers; Lhendup, Tashi and Andy at the Eco Lodge in Pantang, North of Manas National Park.Day 1 – Drive on winding narrow mountain roads from Thimphu (2300m altitude) to Gelephu (200m altitude) on the Indian border (9hrs). The last section of this journey has to be done in daylight and at speed without stopping because it is flanked on either side by forest which makes it prime ambush territory for Assamese Militant Groups. Have dinner with Lhendup’s family (our friend who was looking after us during this trip) in Gelephu with views of the Himalaya behind and the plains of India in front – very surreal!!
Day 2 – Wake up and realise that militant groups have put a ban on vehicle movement through Assam for 3 days. Therefore travel to Manas through Assamese India (by far the shortest way and also the only way to get there by road) would have been done under threat of being pulled from the car and beaten..... Hummmmmm!!!!
Time for Plan of action 2 – Drive back into Bhutan and up into the mountains to Zhemgang before heading south again and drive on rough narrow dirt tracks clinging to the sides of the mountain. Wait for over an hour at the Immigration Check Post to gain permission to
Crossing the River
Local workers helping us to cross the river in Pantang before starting our hike into the National Park from the North. travel into the southern restricted area. Wait for a further hour on a road clinging to the side of a cliff for the engineers to finish road widening, blasting works less than a Km away. Finally wade across 2 fast flowing Himalayan rivers in the dark while the car attempts to ford them with water covering the wheels.........and safely reach the Eco Lodge at Pantang on the Northern outskirts of the Manas National Park (another 8-9 Hrs journey).
Day 3 – Wake up in Pantang at the end of the road (literally). Persuade local workers to ferry you and your belongings across the river in their boat. Set out walking on rough trail through the subtropical rainforest bordering the Manas National Park, heading south for India and Manas National Park. Continue walking for about 24Km (carrying all your belongings on your back) until your reach the village of Reparte (end of the road from the southern side). Hitch-hike a lift from one of Lhendup’s relatives (complete coincidence) for 6km to the major village of Panbang! Meet another of Lhendup’s relatives, be treated very kindly to a wonderful lunch and then spend some time buying all the rations and beer
Hiking into the National Park from the North
In about 2 years this hiking trail will become a main road supplying Manas with supplies and tourists. that the group needs for 3 days in a remote Forestry community in the middle of the National Park. Pack all supplies and personal kit into a boat provided by the Manas National Park and row the 13km down-stream into the park and arrive in Manas at around 3pm!!! Hurrah!!!!
Finish the evening with a bonfire, dinner and whisky outside of the guest chalet in the middle of the Rangers compound.
Day 4/5 – A relaxing day spent strolling along the banks of the Manas River along the Indian border, playing Bhutan vs UK/India on the basketball court and finishing off with an evening elephant safari on the backs of the elephants that the Rangers use here to conduct their patrols!!!!!!
.......................HANG ON A MINUTE.......................
After we have been on the elephant for about 10 minutes we get a call from HQ back in Gelephu saying that the militants have announced another 5 day road Strike in Assam and unless we want to stay in Manas for 5 more days (and miss our onward flight out of Bhutan to our Cycle Adventure) then we had to leave NOW!!!! The next 6 hours were a blur of Ranger Boats, Ranger
Hiking into the National Park from the North
In about 2 years this hiking trail will become a main road supplying Manas with supplies and tourists. Jeeps, Indian Police, Armed Escorts (compulsory for travel through Assam), Assamese tea plantations and paddy fields........... Finally safely back in Bhutan at Gelephu a whole day earlier than we had planned at the beginning of the week!!!!!!!!! PHEW!!! What a journey!!!!!
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Richard B
non-member comment
Sounds like a fair deal - a cup of tea in exchange for your life!
Dear Andy and Mel, Merry Christmas from Team Beck. Emily has been following your blog with interest, I've been less interested. As I've seen your blog does that mean I don't have to endure the powerpoint slide pack on your return?! We're having a less adventurous time, rarely leaving sight of our wood burner. We look forward to seeing you back in Blighty. Safe travels and a Happy New Year to Team B-L. Rich, Amy and Emily x