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Asia » Armenia » West » Yerevan April 10th 2009

Public transport: The Marshrutka I'd been working on Russian; I had a few dozen words maybe, but no grammar because I'd been doing it myself from a book and a CD in the car. But my tutor in Aberdeen, Anya, gave me a couple of hundred more words plus some basic grammar so I should now be able to hold survival-level conversations about buying tickets, asking directions and ordering food. But that was last Summer and since then I've been a little slack about practising, as well as having a confused head with trying to get some Japanese in there too. Anyway, 4 weeks in the former soviet union countries of Georgia, Armenia and Ukraine should bring much of it back. Last entry I mentioned something called a Marshrutka minibus and I think it'll be ... read more
The Marshrootnoye Taksi (Marshrutka)
Yerevan Viewpoint
Yerevan, the Opera House (left) and Mount Ararat

Asia » Armenia December 4th 2008

St. Petersburg - again St. Petersburg is a large and expensive city. The central area is quite beautiful with beautiful 18th century European architecture along canals reminiscent of Venice. Most of the people live in the “bedroom” communities—regions of Soviet-style large brick or cement (! crumbling) apartment building complexes serviced by the metro system, buses, and “marchroutkas” (minivans). And that is where I lived—a 25 minute walk from the Ploshad Muzhestvo metro station ( Square of Courage —a metro station dedicated to those who defended Leningrad during WWII). From my metro station to the Botanical Institute required only one transfer but the trip took between 45 minutes and one hour. I bought my groceries at a new large supermarket, Prisma, which I found near the Metro station at the Moscow Hotel where I had my Russian ... read more
Good-by Bush
Can we defeat America?
The milkline

Asia » Armenia December 1st 2008

From the Komarov Botanical Institute, St. Petersburg, Russia Somehow the US elections that were impending during much of my stay from Sept 1-Nov. 30 weighed heavily on me and I simply couldn’t get a blog together during the time that I worked in St.Petersburg. Also, the instructions from the Fulbright folks to keep blogs simple and sterile took a bit of the fun out of it. But after my son Ian’s phone call to me early Wednesday morning on Nov.5 with the election results, and then the news that appeared as a banner across the bottom of my Russian TV channel that said that Obama had won both East Virginia and Western Dakota I felt a great sense of relief and a great satisfaction that the American democratic system was not, as was sometimes portrayed on ... read more
The office I share with friends at the Institute
My bench space at the Institute
Tom and Lenin in front of the Herbarium

Asia » Armenia November 8th 2008

It’s a dream come true! Finally my long awaited trip to Artsakh became reality. Artsakh as referred to by the Armenians means the “Woods of Aramanyak” and is also known as the disputed land of Nagorno Karabagh. It’s a difficult place to get to, a six hour drive from Yerevan, Armenia with the last few hours a trip not for the faint hearted as you follow a winding road hugging the mountainous ranges of the region. Nevertheless the views are breathtaking and the trip is well worth the effort. My first stop was Shushi, a city perched up on steep mountain block. It has had a great strategic part in the war due to its positioning. I was amazed to discover how badly affected it had been, few people live in half-destroyed buildings, though they are ... read more
Mamik & Babik
Khachkar

Asia » Armenia August 31st 2008

Blogging Again My blogs came to a halt in March after the Armenian elections resulted in martial law, tanks in the streets, and rumors that blogs were not in the best interests of bloggers. In April Tom returned to the US to continue working with UNAVCO to install GPS stations in the Rocky Mountain west and I remained at the American University of Armenia to coordinate two very successful spring projects. Birds in My Backyard, is a contest for students from 7-16 years old, that we organized with the help of Peace Corps volunteer environmental specialists. More than 250 children in Armenian towns and villages built bird feeders which they set up outside their homes or apartment windows. They observed the birds that came to their feeders and prepared a short story, a drawing, or photograph ... read more
Tom and Marian
Ian and Caitlin camping at Fan Tan Lake, MT
Tom and Jenny at Glacier National Park

Asia » Armenia » West » Yerevan July 26th 2008

Tomorrow I fly! Katie will join me on Saturday morning. My first week is supposed to be vacation time to visit with friends. I have told Gohar Palyan the Armenia Coordinator that I would be willing to work during that time if there is work top be done. We shall see.... read more
Katie and I painting
Gargar lunch
Khachik

Asia » Armenia July 26th 2008

I've just finished traveling Armenia with my half-Armenian girlfriend, Liza. It was the first stage of a 2 year traveling spree that we were both embarking on and very exciting for me because it was a chance to see the place where she had spent much of her childhood. We arrived in Yerevan on the 6th July and were picked up at the airport by two different sets of relatives, neither of whom knew that the other was waiting for us. They took us back through the outskirts of Yerevan, the capital, to the flat of Liza's great uncle, Edo. It was very hot and dusty, and half-finished tower blocks dotted the landscape. There was no door to Edo's tower block, and no lobby inside, just a small concrete room dotted with small graffitis, some of ... read more
Milking the cow
Monks of Echmiadzin
Zorots Karer

Asia » Armenia » West » Yerevan July 24th 2008

Sam Here: Today we visited the pagan temple (First Century A.D.) at Garni and then traveled further up a valley to the Geghard Monastery. You can see pictures of both and if you like read more about their long history on the web. The Geghard Monastery is particulalry inspirational, carved out of rock and set in a beatiful setting similar to the Red Rock area of Arizona. At the Geghard Monastery we went into a second story cathederal area carved from solid rock. The acoustics were phenomenal. Gervorg and his cousin's son brought their duduk's (a mysterious wind instrument made from apricot root) and played for us. And then, just by chance, a woman's chorus came in with a small touring group and sang several medieval works that were so enchanting that it brought tears to ... read more
Garni Temple
Geghard Monastery Valley - Armenia
Tree At Monastery

Asia » Armenia » West » Yerevan July 23rd 2008

Just some general comments and pictures about how village houses are built around Yerevan, Armenia. The basic ingredients for foundation, walls, and floors are concrete and tufa (a calcium carbonate deposit). Fortunately for Armenia tufa is common, cheap, and comes in many colors, giving their towns and villages a much greater range in color and variety than other soviet style buildings in other parts of the world. The foundation is laid as a perimeter about 2 feet wide. The outside and the inside of the foundation are laid with some sort of course broken rock with at least one flat face. These are mortared together and the interior between is filled with concrete as the walls go up. They usually build the foundation up about 2-4 feet above the ground and then fill the interior of ... read more
Completed Foundation Wall
Pile of Tufa Stone
Tufa Wall on Foundation Stone

Asia » Armenia » West » Yerevan July 23rd 2008

Yesterday, Izzy's birthday was quite the celebration. Gohar, the Fuller Center volunteer coordinator, took Izzy's birthday very seriously. She made sure that he had a cake, complete with firecracker-tulip that lit the candles and played happy birthday, as well as champagne and watermelon. We were told that we would have cake upon arriving at the site around 10 am, so that the cake would not melt! (Note: Cake was NOT made of icecream!) It was a double celebration, as another villager also had his birthday on the same day. Many people hugged and kissed Izzy, and congratulated me as well. (I guess for having not given up during labor? I'm not sure.) It was incredibly generous of the family to give him the clock. So much generosity and hospitality from people who have so little, to ... read more
old & new yerevan
apt bldg
Izzy & gayena




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