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Published: November 5th 2009
For those who like the executive summary let me cut to the chase! I made it over the Thorong La pass 3 days ago. At 17,769 it is just higher than Everest Base Camp which I was surprised to learn! I'm now back in banana tree and orange grove country. I've decided to add a side trip of 6-7 days to see the Annapurna Sanctuary and Annapurna Base Camp. I am alive and well and very excited to have made the pass.
Updates from home via email or message on this site always much appreciated!
Now to update since the last email.
I am writing this update from Tatopani...meaning hot springs and I've just come from a much needed session in the springs! There is one internet spot here and it is next door to the pool hall believe it not so cues cracking are providing the background music!
I attended a lecture at the Himalayan Rescue Association in Manang just after I last wrote. They stressed the importance of acclimatization obviously and explained that certain groups are more/less likely to get it. Those over 50 are less likely to get it....as past 50 your brain shrinks in size and so there's more room for it to swell!...hahahh...well an advantage to aging I didn't know!
On my way back to the hotel I saw some guys stripping the yak skin off a recently killed yak. Evidently the process takes about 4 hours and they were using the dull side of the axe and 6 guys to pull the hide.
We lost some of the crew we had been trekking with as they did a side trip to Tilicho Lake but the rest of us carried on and the next stop was Ledtar at 4200m (13,780 ft). At this point on the trail the term "Annapurna Highway" becomes obvious. Various trails all merge on a few towns and a few lodges so despite our reasonably quick arrival to Ledtar the 2 good lodges were taken and we had to stay at the Jimi Lodge. I'm not really sure that I could even describe this place...primitive ...basic all come to mind but don't quite convey the desperation as the temps at night are below zero now and the window is not glass but wood as is the door...both with many holes and of course they don't quite fit anyways....sadly food matched and we couldn't wait to escape the next morning.
The next stops are either at 4450m Thorong Phedi or High Camp at 4800m (about 15000 ft) so we pushed on to High Camp. There is now only one lodge and over 150 trekkers all trying to get a bed. We sent our guide on early in the morning and even then it was problematic as to whether we could get beds...but thankfully we did. Not that there was a lot of sleep at the altitude but about 10 hours of rest at least.
The nights are incredibly clear and starry and yes I must admit even put night views at Pointe au Baril to shame.
We were up before 5 and on our way before 6 am and after 660m (2000 ft) of ascent...the last half in light snow....we reached the top of the pass. It was a really exhilarating experience as I truly didn't know whether I could still manage this sort of thing. Buddhist prayers flags were everywhere and amazing views obviously. There was even a tea shop there and a hot lemon never tasted better! Shortly after we arrived 2 guys on mountain bikes arrived.
Interestingly I recall feeling much more winded at Everest Base Camp 18 years ago than I did going over the pass....but maybe it's just my memory playing tricks.
Yes there are even cyclists trying to do the Annapurna Circuit. As for our friends Dan and Jan who were on the tandem bike I haven't seen or heard news of them so I don't know whether they succeeded or not.
Well the pass crossing was clearly the highlight of the day but was overshadowed by the brutal descent - 1700m (5400 feet) and it took about 4-5 hours to arrive in Mucktinath. First there was snow and slippery ice for an hour or so, then scree for another couple of hours..then boulders and finally dirt trail which was slippery as well due to the pitch of the trail.
I had been taking Diamox as a preventive to assist with altitude acclimatization and anti-inflammatories for my knees and both were working incredibly well. When I got up the next morning after the descent I found my Diamox and anti-inflammatory that I was supposed to take before the final ascent still in my shorts pocket! On the day when I needed them most...hahahah...I survived but my knees sure were sore 2 days after the descent!
You pass from one region to another when you got through the pass. The landscape was incredibly arid like the Tibetan Plateau must be and very little vegetation to begin. Dhaulagiri ( the 7th highest mountain) comes into view on your descent and is awe inspiring. The villages are still Tibetan and very scenic....
After about 9 hours of trekking we arrived at the beautiful town of Jarkhot and after a celebratory dinner of a Tubourg beer, spaghetti and popcorn I hit the hay about 7 and slept for almost 12 hours! Jarkhot is a very old village and sits at about 3550m (11650). Finally able to breathe fully again!
Another 6-7 hour hike the next day brought me down to 2670m (8760) where there are apple orchards and the 4 season down sleeping bag is overkill ....thankfully!..It's a very quaint town and I really enjoyed it. We passed through Kagbeni on the trek today and I'd have to say it's the most scenic place I've seen on the Circuit....a photographer's dream with lots of stone and wood and back alleys and interesting lighting and views up the Mustang valley into Upper Mustang and ultimately Tibet.
Cellphones.....for such a poor country cell phones are fairly common and cell phone reception is remarkably broad. My guide/porter and many others are carrying phones...getting calls. It's a bit disconcerting as you trek through the rural areas with amazing views...your guide is just ahead having a conversation with his buddy in Kathmandu....technology!
One of the issues that has pervaded this trek is the issue of roads being built. The trek is basically an upside U. You got up one valley, cross the pass, then go down the other valley. There are roads being built fairly far up both sides...up to Manang on the east side and past Mucktinath on the west side. This means that sometimes you are trekking on roads..in fact..too frequently as opposed to trails. There is no traffic yet on the eastern side but on the western side there are motorcycles, buses and jeeps with fair regularity. Given the aridity and winds in this valley, it makes for pretty brutal dust storms. Many people just get over the pass the either take a bus down the west side or in fact there is an airport a day of trekking past the pass. The town is Jomsom and I actually took money out of an ATM machine...the only one on the Circuit so far and it took about 5 tries before I didn't get "try again the host is busy"!
In fact this morning I decided to take a bus down to Tatopani from Marpha to save 2 days trekking mostly on the road. It also allows me to have enough time to add on a trek into the Annapurna Sanctuary and up to Annapurna Base Camp which is an additional 6-7 days.
A couple of quick notes which I meant to add to my last email. I was chatting with a waiter over dinner one night and he explained that he worked over 12 hours/day 6 days a week and got a salary of 3000 NR or about $40 per month. His rent was the same. He lived on tips of 1000 to 2000 per month ($10-$20). Porters by contrast get paid about $11 per day but of course only get paid when trekking. If there are any typos the roosters in the back room just started crowing!...and it's 5:30 pm....hahahh
Well I imagine no one will have read this far so I'll sign off.
I doubt there are an
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Bev Sanders
non-member comment
Following you
Hi John - just wanted to let you know that Eleanor Marshall and I do enjoy your blogging and hearing of your adventures. Thanks for taking the time to entertain the "office bound" workers of the world! Happy hiking and do take care of yourself as we'd love to see you in person in Saint John some day. Warm regards, Bev