Blogs from Antarctica, Antarctica - page 30

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Antarctica » Antarctica June 7th 2008

In 2002 we approached Whaler's Harbour in the early evening in driving sleet and this only added to my somewhat sombre thoughts about whaling. I'd always been depressed by the thought of whaling: such magnificent animals being killed and boiled down so that, initially, Europeans and then Americans could see in the dark. If you want to know what darkness really means, come to Whaler’s Harbour, Deception Island. Here, one lands on a beach of black volcanic ash with muddy water trickling across it: to the right is a line of rusty cylindrical tanks which held the whale oil - the last with a decided list. All they contain now is some rusty sheet metal, pieces of wood and a few inches of muddy water. To the left are a couple of derelict houses: broken ... read more
6.2 The whale oil storage tanks
6.3 The whale oil storage tanks
6.4 Hans A. Gulliksen's grave

Antarctica » Antarctica June 6th 2008

One afternoon in 2002 some of the zodiacs took a short tour from Neko Harbour but noticed that others were hovering around close to the ship. What was encouraging them to circle around in that somewhat erratic manner? It soon became apparent as we approached that there was a minke whale there flirting with the zodiacs. We had already experienced some social interaction with humpback whales when we were on board ship, but this was clearly something new. It would surface and blow and then show us its dorsal fin. Then it would slowly roll so you could see its white underbelly and it would dip under the zodiac and slowly disappear. Everybody is craning their necks to see where it will emerge next and it always appears in the most unexpected place. In due ... read more
7.2 A minke whale
7.3 The underbelly of the minke whale
7.4 The stain in the underbelly of the minke whale canjust be discerned

Antarctica » Antarctica June 5th 2008

I had a laminated poster in my lab of emperor, I think, penguins crossing a small ice shelf in the half light towards their rookery. I had sub-titled it 'When the going gets tough the tough get going'. I had hoped that this would provide some inspiration to those slothful students that passed through from time to time! So, it was with some anticipation that I came down to Antarctica to, among other things, see the real thing. The first penguins we saw in any numbers were gentoos and I think that Bernard Stonehouse may have had them in mind when he wrote: "I have often had the impression that, to penguins, man is just another penguin - different, less predictable, occasionally violent, but tolerable company when he sits still and minds his own business." ... read more
8.2 A gentoo penguin heading for the water
8.3 A gentoo at Port Lockroy in 2008
8.4 A chinstrap rookery

Antarctica » Antarctica June 4th 2008

Hydrurga is the Latin generic name for the leopard seal and there were certainly leopard seals in the water at Hydrurga Rocks. In fact, they seemed to be interested in the zodiacs and followed us into the bay and swam about off-shore for perhaps half an hour. They were no doubt there because there was a chinstrap penguin colony a few hundred metres from where we landed and the chinstraps were well aware of their presence. There were also several dozen fur seals, their external ears being evident, which mostly lay around doing nothing unless they felt that one had encroached on their territory. Then they reared up on their flippers and barked and one could see into the surprising pinkness of their mouths. We also saw the occasional Weddell seal in 2002 and particularly ... read more
9.2 Another leopard seal on an iceberg
9.3 Another leopard seal on an iceberg
9.4 A fur seal at Melchior Islands

Antarctica » Antarctica June 3rd 2008

The wildlife on the land around the Antarctic Peninsular is dominated by penguins and, to a lesser extent, resting seals. However, one is certainly aware of skuas because they can be seen in all of the penguin rookeries where they attack and devour disabled and abandoned chicks. Cormorants are also quite common and we did see a rookery near the Almirante Brown Station in Paradise Bay. These birds are remarkable in that they can dive tens of metres below the surface of the sea to catch fish for food. But what really brought it home to us that the centre of life in Antarctica is the ocean was the discovery of a stranded giant jelly fish on a beach on Snow Hill Island. No doubt another predator on the billions of tons of krill that ... read more
10.2 A skua bathing pool and 'rest and recreation' area near Whaler's Harbour, Deception Island
10.3 A blue-eyed cormorant rookery at Paradise Bay near Almirante Brown Station
10.4 A stranded giant jelly fish on a beach on Snow Hill Island

Antarctica » Antarctica June 2nd 2008

When we called at Cuverville Island in 2002 there were large areas of moss banks on the steep slopes above the penguin rookery. In the extreme conditions on the Antarctic Peninsular these plants can only grow a few millimetres a year but, even so, we did see some moss growing on a wind-swept ridge. The problems they face are extremely low temperatures, dehydration and low light levels. These problems are at a minimum on north-facing slopes where there is some run-off from melting snow. Even here at zero degrees, which is a relatively warm day for Antarctica, the efficiency of photosynthesis drops to 30% to 40% of its maximum but the effect on metabolism - that is the conversion of the sugars produced by photosynthesis into amino acids and other useful products - is even ... read more
11.2 Moss-covered scree on False Island Point, Vega Island
11.3 Some moss at Almirante Brown Station, Paradise Bay
11.4 An aluminium lifeboat at Mikkelsen Harbour

Antarctica » Antarctica June 1st 2008

We arrived off Cape Horn on the way back to Ushuaia in 2002 on a really good day. There was only about a three metre swell, the storm clouds must have been fully 30 metres above the waves and the sleet was at least 30° to the horizontal! In 2008 it was superb for Cape Horn and I was actually able to photograph it. Cape Horn is a place of great mystique due to the number of ships that have been lost there - at least 76 in the last 400 years - and the famous mariners who have 'doubled the Horn'. Sir Francis Drake came close to discovering it in 1578 when he was blown a long way south on the Pacific side after passing through the Straits of Magellan. In fact, he surmised ... read more

Antarctica » Antarctica May 16th 2008

Renowned Penguin Expert Joins 2009 Voyage to the Great White Continent (Santiago, Chile) --- Dyan deNapoli, a penguin expert from the New England Aquarium in Boston known as “The Penguin Lady,” will present a series of lectures aboard The Antarctic Dream’s January 8, 2009 voyage to Antarctica. The Antarctic Dream, a 78 person capacity expedition cruise ship celebrated for its longtime service in the Chilean Navy, offers ideal expeditions to Antarctica, taking in the most exciting sights of the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula. For more information on this unique excursion to the Great White Continent featuring lectures from “The Penguin Lady”, visit www.antarctic.cl or call 1-877-AD TRIPS. Dyan deNapoli has worked closely with penguins at the New England Aquarium in Boston and in the wild for nine years. During that time, she was ... read more

Antarctica » Antarctica May 6th 2008

Although this entry has been submitted in 2008, the expedition was Dec 1994 - January 1995 and such an wonderful experience I thought it worthwhile to add it to my Travelblog. The photos were taken with a Pentax ME super SLR with a filter causing some photos to have an off - white hue. The photos were developed in the machine at the local shop, scanned into a file then added to the blog. They are not as clear as digital, but back in those days this is what we had to record the marvellous memories. 27th. December 1994: Leaving Perth, I headed to Hobart, Tasmania for a couple of days before the start of my holiday of a lifetime - a 3 week expedition to Antarctica aboard the icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov. To fill in time ... read more
South to Antarctica
South to Antarctica
South to Antarctica


A pale light seeped into the cramped bedroom from under the door. There was just enough light for John to see Patricia's pale, drawn face, if he were to have looked. But John didn't look. John stood stiffly in the middle of the room, hands on the back of his desk chair, staring out the window into the blackness. "What are we going to do now?" he asked. After a moment, Patricia, nearly hidden beneath the comforter said, "I don't know. I don't want this to happen any more than you do." John turned around slowly and stood facing the bed. He peered towards the outline of Patricia's face. Trying with all his might to be calm for her, he said, "Baby, I know you tried. I know." Soft sobbing came from the bed and John ... read more




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