Crossing the Circle and Detaille Island Disappointment

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So the morning of the 27th dawned with two exciting expectations: 1. Crossing the Antarctic Circle and 2. Our first landing at Detaille Island. This was the day(s) we'd all been waiting for. Originally most of us expected to be going to the South Shetland Islands first and doing the Antarctic Circle crossing right at the end of our trip as that's what the trip detail stated. I don't think anyone was disappointed that we were doing things "backwards". It was never confirmed exactly why we did it backwards, but I think it was because our ship had made a commitment to collect some personell who had spent 5 weeks restoring an old research station on Detaille Island. Since we also had to drop most of them off at Port Lock Roy later in our trip we obviously needed to do Detaille Island prior to Port Lock Roy.

Anyways, back to our two big expectations...

We were expecting to cross the Antarctic Circle before we'd be woken up for the day and so we though we thought it would be unremarked until our return crossing. However we were awake and enjoying breakfast at 8:10 when we actually crossed the circle (66º 33' S). We couldn't convince Julio (expedition leader) that this was worth a Champagne brekkie but we did try. Instead we had to wait until our crossing in the reverse direction to enjoy a free glass of Champagne and toast our "acheivement". Apparently it is impossible for our ship to get below the circle any earlier in the season as there is too much ice around so this was special for the crew as well as for us.

Now if you are like me you know the Antarctic Circle exists. You know it's important geographically somehow. But don't actually know why. Well the Antarctic Circle (and Arctic Circle) are defined as the points furthest removed from the poles where there is a full 24 hours with sunlight in summer and without sunlight in the winter. We were of course far too late in the year for that and were able enjoy long days that thankfully did end.

And the other big expectation: our first landing! And for me my first kayak in Antarctic waters. Sadly that was a no go. The weather was terrible and there was no way for us to clamber into Zodiacs (and definitely not into kayaks). However the crew was determined to collect the restoration staff. So they made them trek to the South side of the island and used their best Zodiac drivers to retieve them. Disappointing for us, but we always knew that bad weather preventing landings was, at somepoint not just a possibility, but a likely outcome. If the Antarctic was hospitable it wouldn't be the only continent that doesn't boast a permanant population. It was also satisfying to be able to have some small part in the operation which is involved in restoring rundown sites in the Antarctic.

Besides, there was always the two (TWO!!!) planned zodiac (kayak) cruises planned for the afternoon in Hanusse Bay. again those plans were changed slightly, but no one complained. At least not in my hearing. Instead of two, we only got one zodiac (kayak) cruise and instead of Hanusse Bay we got Gunnel Channel. This was it! We were going to kayak! We kitted up in our awesome kayak suits (not overly flattering) and waited for all the zodiacs to leave so we could put our kayaks in. This isn't the easiest operation in the world. First, a zodiac is tied to the gangway, then the kayak is lowered down and held next to the zodiac. Then we clamber down, over the zodiac and into the kayak. Well at least that's what was supposed to happen. Benoit (our very Zen French Canadian kayak instructor) went out first and decided that it was too windy and rough still and that we would have to do a zodiac cruise instead.

This in itself isn't a problem. You can see more / go further in a zodiac than you can in a kayak and quite frankly zodiacs are fun. Especially when you get the benefit of three (count them!) expedition staff to point things out for you and help get you enthused (like we need help getting enthused). Every other zodiac only had one (the driver). The problem came in the fact that we'd dressed for kayaking. Kayaking is an active pursuit. You expect to work up a little bit of body heat and not to be sitting in the wind freezing your butt off. So after a while we were all shivering and pretending to not be. That was of course except for two in the group who felt the need to complain loudly and force us to turn back before our time was up. Spoil sports! But what we saw was spectacular. Which of course the time my little point and click waterproof camera decided to NOT focus. So I have memories rather than photos. Don't worry. There are plenty of photos of icebergs coming up in later blogs.

I think the most potent memory for me was actually a sound. At one point our driver shut the engine off and all you could hear was the pop-pop-popping of the ice. Since the ice was formed through snow fall which has been compressed over many many years, there are a heap of little air pockets trapped and compressed in the ice which expands as the ice melts in the water. Very awesome!

To end this unforgettable day, ot only did I get a free glass of Champagne, but I also called my Dad from below the circle for his birthday. The ship's sattelite link cut out really quickly, but I got to say hi and happy birthday but I really hope that he remembers the time his daughter called him from below the Antarctic Circle on his birthday. OK so technically it wasn't his birthday where I was, but it was where he was so I think that counts.

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Photos

Our life boats...
Just cos I like that photo

Awww....
I love it when nature throws something like this at me.