So much wow!

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The weather is not really co-operating - we may have used up our luck on the first day…but the wildlife seems to be! We pulled up anchor early to start our cruise through the Lemaire Channel. Enjoyed breakfast and we were making the most of a break in the rain on the deck when the boat suddenly took a sharp turn. It looked much like we’d forgotten something and were going back for it when an announcement came over the speaker that orcas had been spotted. Given we were told yesterday that we had a 1% chance of seeing them and they were top of Beeb’s list, you can imagine how fast and how loud she was to grab her coat and head outside.

And wow, so much wow, because there are really no words to describe it! We had to approach slowly and at first it looked like they were out-running (swimming?!) us but we happened upon a large area where there were dozens of birds feeding and also a humpback. And about 30 orcas. By watching their behaviour, the scientists on board determined they were Type B (Gerlache) small orcas and the humpback was trying to chase them away. So we joined in the parade - humpback, orcas, ship - for about 30 minutes, watching them duck and weave about each other. At one stage, we had orcas right on the side of the ship - so amazing that we almost didn’t notice the howling gale and the gradual loss of sensation in the extremities. I honestly have no words to describe what an incredible experience it was - something that we will remember forever, poorly captured in photos, but with a unique reminder in the several fingers lost to frostbite.

All that by 10.00 in the morning! So we had an impromptu lesson on orcas and whales in general to find out about their behaviour and social structures. We finally returned to course and passed through the Lemaire Channel, a narrow passage of towering peaks and snow-covered glaciers dropping into the sea.

The weather continues its non-cooperation so we napped and relaxed until we reached our next destination and they assessed whether we were able to land. The verdict was tentative yes, but as we were the last scheduled group, we enjoyed a bit more downtime.

Our turn finally arrived and we headed to the mud room, layered up and ready to face the elements and swell. Lots of helpers around and we were on the zodiacs and being smashed by waves and swell before we knew it, heading towards our next wildlife target in the Yalour Islands (approx 65 degrees south) - Adelie penguins.

Clambered up into the rocks and up onto the snow, to be greeted by several rookeries and penguins going about their business - waddling, sliding on their plump little bellies, stealing rocks and looking after their newly hatched chicks. The balls of dark brown fluff were delightful to watch huddling into their parents’ bellies to escape the driving rain/sleet/snow and howling wind. All the while, their parents and relatives went about their business - plump little bellies out front and flippers out to the side, providing some balance for their waddling gait.

Despite the near tropical conditions, it was time to return to the ship, so we clambered down to the zodiac and headed back through the swell again. We were so wet and cold when we returned that Beeb even volunteered to have a shower! But so worth it!

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