One day to the next

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How’s the song go? What a difference a day makes! We awoke to an Antarctic blizzard - limited visibility, howling winds and snow. The wind seemed at least to be keeping the sea relatively flat with its strength.

Huge objections from the teenager at the early wake up call, particularly when it became obvious that we would not be going ashore unless we were after a trip on zodiac airlines. So we relaxed and read, played games in the lounge and watched as we slid past icebergs large and small and spectacular glaciated islands. Several attempted landing sites were rejected until we finally arrived at Paradise Harbour and the wind had died down (and the rain was only coming in fits and starts). We were the first zodiac ashore at Brown Base (official stop on the peninsula), a now abandoned Argentinian base. A steep climb up to a penguin highway…they apparently care very little for roadside maintenance so it was quite stinky, and apparently quite slippery as we watched them waddle and stack, waddle and stack along their way. Next activity was apparently mountain climbing, which I had not signed up to, so I enjoyed the anticipation of Geoff’s photos.

Slipped and slid around the snow covered mountain, enjoying the view to the ship across the harbour. Back to the penguin highway, where the toll collectors remained and back down to the sea for a zodiac cruise.

We visited the shags (cormorants) who had some chicks in residence and then headed back to the ship via a close encounter with a feeding whale, who was almost directly below our boat.

Quick and efficient unload and back onto the ship for showers and drinks in the bar. Recap of the day and plans for tomorrow before dinner.

We had dropped anchor in the most serene bay (Leith Cove), surrounded by tall, snow covered peaks punctuated by glaciers. We enjoyed some time out on deck, with a brief break in the rain, to delight in the truly amazing scenery and serenity…well, when it wasn’t punctuated by snow fights, snow eating and incessant chatter about whales, penguins, seals, sea birds and every other creature you could possibly imagine. It was difficult to stop taking photos, knowing that the majesty of the place wouldn’t possibly translate but also wanting to try to capture and retain as much as possible. This was the Antarctica we had imagined, maybe with slightly less rain.

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