Blogs from Ross Sea, Antarctica, Antarctica - page 2

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Antarctica » Antarctica » Ross Sea March 22nd 2008

When I started writing up this trip, I envisaged three blogs, one on the trip south, one on the Ross Sea, and one on the trip north. If you’ve followed the last month’s scribblings in any detail (or simply kept an eye on the blogs’ titles), you’ll know this was a somewhat optimistic initial assessment. Everyone who has been before says it takes a surprisingly long time to absorb and to digest fully a trip to Antarctica. The intensity of experience in a short space of time in the context of the long, tough journeys there and back, however mild the weather conditions and conducive the company, is overwhelming. The afternoon we began our journey home from our furthest south the ship was unusually quiet, few people even on the bridge to say farewell to the ... read more
Scott's Terra Nova hut
priority provisions in the Discovery hut
Shackleton's hut

Antarctica » Antarctica » Ross Sea March 20th 2008

If stepping ashore at Cape Adare was magical, walking down the gangway and straight onto a vast plain of snow-covered sea ice which stretched away to the distant foot of the Campbell Glacier was breathtaking. We’d spent the first few hours of the morning on the bridge or out on deck watching incredible scenery unfold around us. As we breakfasted, the ship rounded Cape Washington and the simple magnificence of Mount Melbourne, and entered Terra Nova Bay. In the distance were the ice cliffs of the Campbell Glacier’s tongue, and beyond that the peaks of the northern end of the Prince Albert Mountains. It was a stunning day. In compensation for the wind and grey skies of the day before, the sun was shining in skies that were a delicate shade of blue with only high ... read more
icicle patterns
ploughing into the pack
the scene of the earlier ice floe break-up

Antarctica » Antarctica » Ross Sea March 18th 2008

“Exploration is the physical expression of the intellectual passion. And I tell you, if you have the desire for knowledge and the power to give it physical expression, go out and explore…” (Apsley Cherry-Garrard) I celebrated the second anniversary of my leaving the rat-race of a City legal career by setting foot on the Antarctic continent for the first time. I woke that morning to see land outside the porthole for the first time in six days. The cliffs of Cape Adare drifted in and out of sight through the mist and falling snow. On ice floes between the ship and the shore were gaggles of black dots, Adélie penguins come to check out the new arrivals. After breakfast - porridge was in big demand that morning - we eagerly donned layer upon layer of warm ... read more
desolate habitation
inside Borchgrevink's hut
furry hat and bib

Antarctica » Antarctica » Ross Sea March 17th 2008

Breaking through the pack ice into the Ross Sea was far from a foregone conclusion. Aurora’s previous trip in January had not managed to do so, and we spent an extra couple of days battling this ice ourselves, venturing as far east as the dateline and using helicopters for recce flights before we found a path through. Once through and into the Ross Sea’s polynya, a recurring area of open water, our battles were far from over. Fast ice around the coast would challenge our attempts to approach some of our desired destinations sufficiently close for either Zodiac or helicopter landings. Last season’s pack ice should still have been disintegrating, but recent temperature variations meant that new ice was already forming rapidly. Even for Antarctica aficionados, it was an astonishing trip in terms of the number ... read more
Lego blocks
the Marina Svetaeva in the icebreaker-bashed channel in McMurdo Sound
the tongue of the Drygalski Glacier




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