Kenya's lakes are dying, Dec 17th and 18th


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Africa
December 23rd 2009
Published: December 23rd 2009
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I write this in a very black mood, having just witnessed death.

Before I get into that, let me tell you my journeys in the last couple of days.

I left Masai Mara on 17th for Lake Naivasha, which is well known for its birds and Hippos and 18th was scheduled for Lake Nakuru, well known for its Flamingos and Rhinos.

Lake Naivasha is at 6,240 feet and I took a boat ride on the lake and a walk in Crescent Island. The lake which usually is 200 square km in area and 18 meters deep is much smaller now and depth reduced to 12m, due to lack of rains. On top of that, the big flower farms are digging canals to water their plantations from the lake, instead of using underground water through borewells.

Result is that that the once rich in birdlife place has very few birds left and even the Hippos are struggling.

I saw the African Fish Eagle (this is the bird on the American government seal) catching fish, that was the only saving grace.

18th morning, we came to Lake Nakuru, a national park, where only last year around 4 million Flamingos lived (its said that the whole lake used to look pink with them, imagine 4 million Flamingos in 44 sq km of water).

But its a sad story now, there hasn't been any rains this year and I saw decimated animals, caracasses and dead trees all around.

The government which is responsible for running this place has been cutting trees, no one knew why.

Result is the lake has reduced significantly, its impossible to see Flamingos from close quarters (vehicles can't go there and its a near impossible walk in this heat). There are not more than couple of thousand Flamingos left here, rest have migrated.

Saw white rhinos (mother and baby), that complete the Big 5 for this safari.

While going on the drive, had seen 3 buffalos, both me and the guide commented on how decimated they were, when we returned, one of them had slipped and fallen (from about 2 feet), but she was so weak, she just lay there, dying, the eyes fading out. Its two companions kept a watch, as did I and my guide. There was nothing we could do other than watch her die.

Its a sad reflection of how Kenyan government runs its "national parks", where animals die of starvation, caused by droughts which are created by government led deforestation.

Thank god that Masai Mara is run by the Masai people through a co-operative and not the government.

I write this on the day the Copenhagen summit will conclude, I hope it is successful in protecting all living beings who cannot defend themselves against human avarice.


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11th January 2010

The fish eagle pictures are brilliant!

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