From bread basket to basket case

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The last country on the itinerary during this wonderful trip to Southern Africa is Zimbabwe; formerly known as the bread basket of the region but now a country devastated by a collapse of the farming sector, chronic shortages of food and fuel, hyperinflation and massive levels of unemployment. Tourism levels have also plummeted in recent years due to instability and violence, but as a humble blogger I will leave further political comment to the politicians, and simply share as always my travel experiences.

The previous journal left off in Livingstone, constant reader, on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls. I farewelled most of the safari group, and went to the Zim border where I had to fork out a hefty 50 smackaroos in order to secure a visa for the country. Oh well, I lined up with a stack of workers who cross the border each way for work and was quickly processed into Zim. From the beginning I realised that these neighbouring countries have been turned completely upside down, everything Zim had been Zambia was becoming, and vice versa. Traditionally Victoria Falls (the town) is where everyone visits when coming to view this natural wonder of the world, yet now the town although beautifully presented and more built up than Livingstone, was almost deserted by tourists due to the current political situation. It was an incongruous feeling to bear witness to the dramatic turnaround in the two countries' fortunes. Nevertheless I checked into a nice hostel with a bar which is often an added bonus in African hostels, and headed off to the mighty Victoria Falls on the Zim side.

The Falls are astonishing to see from both sides, and the Zim side gives an overview of this natural phenomenon that shows the power of mother nature in all her might and glory. There are great trails to be walked on the Zim side also, and I had an excellent day exploring. This was my first day as a solo traveller in over three weeks, so when I returned to the hostel for the evening I employed my tried and true plan ... to prop up the bar. Once again out of the blue I had one of those incredible nights that only travelling seems to provide. I twisted the top to blow the froth off my first brewski around 6:00pm, little knowing that I would still be at the bar at 2:00am and then embark on an impromptu wildlife safari in my mate's 4wd, but that's a story for another time. On second thoughts ... oh what the hey, may as well share a nice travel yarn with you to pass the time!

The hostel bar was great fun that night, there were some white Zim girls there for a party, from a rapidly decreasing white minority who had thus far decided not to flee the country. I also met an immensely interesting Afrikaner who was in Zim for business. The beers flowed freely at the bar that night, as did the conversation. I think I learnt more from this character in one night about the waxing and waning fortunes of Zim vs Zambia than I could possibly learn from a book. The guy was absolutely fascinating! I remember at around 2:00am my phone went off, and I ducked out of the bar and away from the music to answer a call from a very serious sounding real estate agent in Sydney. It was a surreal moment, but it was time to head back to the bar! So my mate figures we should go for a drive. OK then, and before long we're roaring off into the bush. I looked at this big character on a dark night in the middle of nowhere and told him I was feeling scared, but he reassured me I wasn't going to be murdered as we ploughed around the bush in his 4wd looking for wild animals. He then took me to a waterhole in a five star hotel, and the staff let us in no worries. Later we saw some big elephants right on the side of the road 20 kilometres from town, and he said they used to walk right into Vic Falls but the rangers were forced to shoot in order to shoo the elephants away. I had, all in all, what was another big and memorable night out in Southern Africa.

The next day I was joined across the border by my German safari mate and an Aussie couple from our safari group. We visited the famous Victoria Falls Hotel for a quiet beer to celebrate the end of our time together, and went out for an absolutely scrummy Indian meal. I enjoyed my time immensely in this beautiful continent, featuring magnificent animals and friendly people of Southern Africa, but had to get a wriggle on so farewelled my friends to catch a flight the next day back to Jo'Burg. I stayed in an excellent hostel not far from the airport, and strolled around some that evening before enjoying a meal at a restaurant and a quiet drink at the hostel. The next morning in another example of African hospitality my hosts drove me to the airport, including numerous side trips to points of interest along the way with ongoing commentary. This lovely couple really seemed keen to dispel the bad reputation that Jo'Burg suffers from, and I appreciate their kindness. A visit to Victoria Falls in Zim is a great experience. In fact the entire visit to Southern Africa is an experience I'll cherish, basically all of you should be here now!

The one who does not remember history is bound to live through it again." George Santayana

Here ends the final entry of my historical travel journals. So until next time with the first real time journal, I'm signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Victoria Falls, Zim side
This is the main falls. From the Zim side there is more of an overview, as opposed to being right on top of the Falls on the Zambian side. The views from both sides are mind boggling.

Sunset over the Zambezi river
The sunsets are captivating in Africa.

Safari stragglers farewell
My german mate, an Aussie couple and I relax at Victoria Falls Hotel on the last day in Zim. We farewelled the other safari members in Zambia.

South African coast
I love the rocks and the beautiful colour of the water, so decided to crouch down like a monkey for this shot.

Victoria Falls hostel bar
The venue of another legendary night out in Southern Africa.

The smoke that thunders
Mist rises from the Falls in the background of the hotel grounds.