Broken rope and running warthogs in the town


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Africa » Zimbabwe » Victoria Falls
March 7th 2012
Published: March 7th 2012
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After two months we were back at the Victoria Falls but this time from Zimbabwe side and it has been same ‘wow’ experience once again. We understand why this is one of the top world’s wonders. It is really hard to compare Zambia and Zimbabwe falls since it is same amazing falls but you are getting unique view from both sides. Definitely you are getting a better view and understanding how big these falls are from Zimbabwe side but in Zambia side you can stand almost on the top of them and feel the powerful nature wonder. This time of year the falls were full of water and we couldn’t avoid getting absolutely soaked from head to top as it was splashing like from a big bucket. As well we couldn’t resist going back to the 111 meters bridge and facing the disaster which has happen exactly two months ago and just one day after our jump. Well we got quite opposite feelings this time and nobody would be able to force us to jump from this bridge again – the ropes are changed and surprisingly tiny, the place is very quiet and the bungee jump team hardly has any job since the accident. Looking over the bridge again we were wondering how the Australian girl survived such drop and rapids – she was unlucky but lucky in the same time. This horrible accident has affected many people, especially the Australian girl and Zimbabwean/Zambians as they are getting a lot of tourism.

We arrived to Victoria Falls from Bulawayo by a night train from 1950 which has been an interesting and long trip but worth to experience once in the lifetime. It was far away from a luxury trip through we have booked the first class which remained us a third class journey. At least we got own tiny room (just we and our backpacks fitted in with a small squeeze) with two beds and a small window so we couldn’t complain since many people were sharing a room or got a sitting place for 16 hours journey. The power was going on and off, and if happened that you was on the toilet so the visit was quite dark and different. As well to find your own room in the darkness doesn’t make it easier. The train staff was friendly and sociable; they made sure that we would have a pleasant trip to Victoria Falls. The night was magnificent as the stars in the wilderness lit up and we were happy to have the power cuts time from time. We couldn’t get enough of them and starred for a moment until we felt to a light sleep since every stop we were waking up as the train jumped heavily. Next morning we woke up with the orange bright sun over beautiful Hwange National Park which invited us to admire the waking up animals and cool breezes through the window. Just before we entered the small touristic resort Vic Falls we got a great view in the distance over the splashing water into air, we could hear it clearly as well and we were keen to be back at Victoria Falls but this time from Zimbabwe side.

As we stepped off the train we were overwhelmed with the local people first time in Zimbabwe. We could hear voices over other voices around us: ‘Do you need a taxi?; Would you like to visit my shop in the market?; Do you want have a ten trillion dollars… here, here you can buy it for just 5 USD?! Do you need some souvenirs for your family, I have the big five! Here comes a hippo, an elephant..etc..’. You can just feel in the air this touristic place and we always try to avoid these kinds of places but not always are possible. We are trying to understand the locals because they are trying just survive and the tourism is the main income since 90% is unemployed. However we were obvious tourists as we were with two big backpacks and couldn’t melt in the crowd (or white person never won’t melt in the crowd in Victoria Falls as we have heard from white locals) and they were following us one after one in the morning heat. So we were rejecting politely the offers and heating to our new host place. Well we didn’t realize how far it is and to carry a backpack (if not the backpack carried us) and a daypack each in the morning/lunch heat which was reaching +35 degrees already wasn’t a pleasant moment but this is a real backpacking, huh! 😊

First warning in this small town we got don’t be on foot in the night time and our first thought was about criminality rate maybe is quite high but the locals explained that this town is surrounded of a national park and quite often you hear a lion rowing, an elephant walking clumsily and destroying everything what is in his way, a hyena laughing in the middle of town etc. Just after few hours in Vic Falls we were admiring Pumbas (warthogs) running self-confidently (usually they are quite confused and keep distance from people) more than ever around the town and next morning we were attacked by huge baboons which were resisting having our bread. We were almost running and they behind us but luckily some locals came on the path and obviously baboons are so smart so they know that the locals don’t give anything and they run away. Well we were walking self-confidently with the locals afterwards and the baboons looked at them like they would say: ‘You have ruined my business today’.

Next morning we got up with the sun as we were planning to visit Victoria Falls this day and we didn’t want to queue with other tourists to take a picture. It is great that it is a walking distance to the national park and it makes you in depended of a taxi or other transportation. We signed in first and first two hours we were by ourselves in whole national park before the tour groups were running excitedly in. It was an amazing day with a sun and clear blue sky, and the bright rainbow came across Victoria Falls which we didn’t see last time. Well what we can say to people who is wondering which side is better - Zambia or Zimbabwe. Both sides are unique in an own way and best to visit both sides if it is possible (if you have some extra cash so you can get a daily national park enter visa to other side but we aren’t sure about the price). It is same magnificent looking falls and like we have mentioned before so the understanding of how big it is and the view is definitely better from Zim but in other hand you experience the powerful nature wonder whiles standing on it in Zambia side. As well in Zambia side you had more small walking routes in the national park since Zim it is just the main route to see the big falls. We have enjoyed a lot both sides and we would recommend seeing the whole falls. We were lucky to see the falls in almost dry and wet season since the water capacity difference is huge. This time we have been completly soaked walking along the ‘dangerous and slippery’ route, and the power of the falling (at some point we felt like in a washing machine) water over your head is quite impressive which a part of whole Victoria Falls experience is. Also, we couldn’t reject coming back to the bridge were we have done the bungee jump two months ago. We mentioned before so it has been sensitive and different come back than we were expecting. The place has changed radically – so peaceful and silent. We were able to talk to the bungee jump stuff and management so they informed us that the bungee jumping was close for three weeks. The third day the tourism minister jumped to prove that the jumping is secured and some adrenalin freaks (according them) were resisting to jump just after the accident. We got know the causes of broken rope as well but we don’t want to go into it here. The Australian girl is doing well now as well.

In our opinion there isn’t a big deal to do in Vic Falls town since it is way too touristic for us. We were visiting the main souvenir market which has been quite a lot hassle to go through but these people understand a simple ‘no, thanks’. There are many guys who are selling old Zimbabwean dollars which has been really high like trillions, and these guys are everywhere and the third has been annoying to say ‘no, thanks’ at least twenty time per day. Actually we felt really safe since two tourist policemen came across to us and asked if we were ok or the guys are bothering us too much, and they gave us the direction were way are staying if we needed some help. So people are super friendly but more relying on tourism at Vic Falls.

Oh if you would like to get a good view of Victoria Falls Bridge from Zim side so make sure to visit Victoria Falls Hotel and take a walk in the garden. It is gorgeous view.


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10th March 2012
A part of Victoria Falls with two rainbows

Very terrific and ammaging

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