Mosi-oa-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders) aka Victoria Walls


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Africa » Zambia » Livingstone
April 23rd 2008
Published: April 23rd 2008
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The Zambezi and the glorious Victoria Falls are just breath-taking. The Falls themselves are the largest curtain of water in the world and words don't describe just how beautiful they are. The whole area is magical. Everything is so green and lush. Butterflies are in an abundance and it feels altogether other-wordly. Think Rivendell!

Getting here was easy enough. We took the bus from Lusaka to Livingstone. I was very pleased we had organised bus tickets the day before. The bus station was heaving and we certainly would not have got a seat without our advance booking. Journey time was around 6 hours. It passed fairly quickly and was actually very enjoyable as it provided an opportunity to survey the Zambian landscape. It was interesting to see that not far out from the main towns and cities, small communities of thatched mudhuts sprung up everywhere.

Livingstone is a pleasant change from Lusaka. Not that I disliked Lusaka but there's just not a lot to do there. Here, we have been staying in...wait for it...FAWLTY TOWERS! Fortunate it for us it is not aptly named and we could find no real fault there. To Kerry's great delight, she's been able to get hot flowing showers without difficulty. What really makes Fawlty Towers is the fact that so many people from all parts of the world are passing through on various RTW trips or African tours. We have been chatting away to ex-pats, US students, Korean students, folk from OZ, Canada and just all over. The thing to watch out for is a serious case of travel envy! Some people have been what seems like everywhere and they sure have great stories to tell. I'm sure by the end of our 12 months we'll have our own tales to tell!

Yesterday, we visited the falls for the first time. What a wonder! We saw the falls from the top, where the water drops 360 feet to the base. We crossed the knife-edge bridge on which we got absolutely drenched. The spray from the falls is fantastic - like walking through seriously torrential rain. We had raincoats AND ponchos on.

While you can get very close on foot (closer than I had anticipated) the size and scale of the falls are so immense that from the ground it is just not possible to appreciate the whole of it. For that reason, and as a 30th birthday treat for Kerry, I have booked us today a microflight each (a flight on a motorised handglider) which should allow us to see the whole thing from the air. Everyone back at Fawlty Towers was raving about this flight and so it should be mindblowing.

Tonight we formally join our Safari group. That means our first night sleeping in a tent. We'll spend 19 days leaving Zambia and travelling through Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Should be great. There are apparently 18 other people on tour with us so should be cosy!

One thing I have to say is that I am seriously loving all the sunshine. We've been keeping safe and slapping on the sunscreen (Factor 50, no less - a bit much I think but Kerry's choice!). This has however revealed a small issue which I may have been in denial about or just trying to ignore: my receding foreline!!! Aaarrrghhh - it's true! I keep forgetting to apply the sun lotion there and so have a lovely pink upper forehead. Attractive.

Probably won't get any real access to the net for a few days now. I'll update again just as soon as I can.

Interesting moment: Kerry eating a dry roll and wotsits for breakfast
Amusing moment: Kerry in a poncho
Hilarious moment: Kerry turning 30! Sooo ancient!



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23rd April 2008

30 is not ancient!
Hi Ross, Glad you are doing the factor 50, remember America!!!! Trip sounds great so far, food exotic, Wotsits and rolls! Enjoy Safari xx
31st May 2008

Hi Ross, all sounds like paradise. I love the Fawlty Towers part, every one thinks dad looks like the manager, so would have been classic if a Harry look alike walked out!!!! The Falls sound great. I have done Niagara and oh boy they took my breath away. Let me know how the microflight went, BRAVE MAN xxx

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