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Chipatans are proud of their traffic lights; it's a good sign the town is developing, and was a key landmark of the town as first described to me in Lusaka. However, I haven't yet worked out the rules of their usage- are they as in the UK (in theory Zambians drive on the left) or elsewhere, where you can turn left on red? Not helped by the frequent powercuts when it's every driver for themselves.
It's also known as the 'bicycling city'- there is a bicycle factory on the outskirts, and bikes are a key transport for agricultural produce brought in from the hinterland. Incredibly loaded, have seen them precariously stacked with trays of eggs and very unstable wide loads of furniture or firewood and, in particular, livestock; unhappy chickens dangling from handlebars and, once, a convoy of four bikes, each with an adult goat strapped to the back. In addition, bicycle taxis are a frequent sight; a padded seat on the back and one or two people can be carried down into town in style (though there are fewer 'taxis' waiting to come back up the hill).
There are a surprising number of cars given their relative cost.
Main junction
early morning White trucks and 4*4s owned by the NGOs and big trailers for transporting manual workers around the place. Some of the 'Down' shop owners have big executive saloons (look like Lexus and Mercedes-type only don't always recognise the marque) and many young men with aspirations have an older, smaller saloon, such as a Toyota Corolla which, as soon as a likely target comes past becomes a 'Taxi!' So you can see where the market for the three petrol stations come from. However, petrol is prohibitively expensive for many with cars (same price as UK) and there is a thriving black market at main road junctions and the entrance to the town of traders with plastic containers with small quantities of fuel. Any rules on vehicle maintenance and drink-driving appear lightly respected. Some nights ago the television news had an interesting feature on the growing problem of traffic jams in Lusaka as increasing numbers of vehicles are imported, with vox pops of drivers in queues saying this was the situation several days of the week at several key junctions (which seems fairly minor compared with the gridlock every day in UK towns). The authorities are looking at ringroads, bypasses and roundabouts
etc, but they appear in great danger of repeating the mistakes we have made with respect to motor transport.
One feature where the UK could learn from the Zambia is in the quality of the street advertising. No billboards or flyposting here. Commercial premises and buildings with a facade or a high security wall will have jolly ads beautifully and exactly painted on and maintained- brands such as Panado (paracetamol). Colgate and Boom (detergent). They are great and really add to the character.
There are four principal destinations for everyday purposes in the centre. At one end of the street is Shoprite, a South African supermarket. Reminds me a bit of the old Kwiksave in Rusholme; supplies are sporadic and common items are either plentiful or sparse, so there is a slight tendency for people to stockpile when their favourites are in. Outside are often some enterprising traders who buy the bread inside and then do a convenience service selling it on for 1000kw extra. Moving on into the town centre is the market. Best on a Saturday, it is full of farmers bringing in their produce, which is displayed and sold in small piles, sometimes with a
cardboard price in front. Groundnuts (one discovery here- thought were peanuts at first but you boil them and they are wonderful) are sold in scoops (I have to get the largest to get enough to supply my household!). Also, 'choowooya' (?sp), a pod brought in from the bush, which contains seeds which are like sweets- white with almost a minty flavour; you suck on them until you get to the kernel which is discarded.
Moving down there is the big junction with the traffic lights, the BP garage and Barclays bank on the other side- a key pick up and dropoff point. Finally, on the way out of town and to the right, are the Down shops, the core commercial area for domestic goods (beds, saucepans, generators) and cloth, including of course chitenge shops, which sell the lengths of material used as skirts and, when made up, into suits. Outside the shops sit the tailors with foot peddle Singer sewing machines who will convert your purchased cloth into a finished article. Near the Down shops is the 'salua' (?sp) a big market where many of the West's secondhand clothes end up, get sorted and given a new life.
All the way down the town are traders sat by the side of the road selling what they can bring in on foot or bike. Secondhand shoes and suits are quite common. Speaking of shoes, there is a fashion here for men's shoes with very long pointy toes. Looking at them it is not clear whether they come like this or whether one buys an extension and attaches it to normal shoes.
Top topic of conversation both in the town and at work at the moment is witchcraft and black magic. It seems that a blue (officially licensed) taxidriver has the ability to turn into a snake or a coffin. We're also having a few more ups and downs with the electricity and water than usual. The President was visiting Lundazi last week, the object of his visit concerning a joint Zambian/Malawian HEP scheme. We therefore had a few days with electricity all night. When he returned it he went back to what we thought was normal, but there was then a more serious problem as there has been no electricity since, and for a time we had no water either in several areas (must be affecting the pumps
somewhere).
The weather is definitely getting colder. It is now what I would call typical English summer, though I understand the UK has thunderstorms at the moment. The Sisters are wearing cardigans and tights, and one wears an anorak constantly. My feet have returned to 'normal' i.e. not warm and my morning cold shower is getting properly cold, but I am still happy to sit in a T-shirt in the evening.
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