Uganda - Gulu Part 2 or 2

---

Top of Form

Hello friends,

Saturday 26^th May – GULU and community outreach

We had our second community outreach today, at a village called Pajule further out of Gulu. Hugh and Becky’s blog provides a brilliant overview and lots of valuable background information http://outreachuganda.blogspot.co.nz/.

It was a couple of hours drive way and today we had another British person, Kate a doctor friend of George’s, coming with us. Drew and I were in the car with David (a colleague of George’s) and we headed out of Gulu on another bumpy track. We passed a School for War Affected Children and many previous IDP (Internally Displaced People) camps, strong reminders we were in an area country that until a few years ago was the LRAs territory. At the time there would have been rebel activity all around, the people in the IDP camps were kept relatively safe by the Ugandan army soldiers and if they ventured out in the daytime they would always return to the camps before nightfall. The children would often commute to Gulu at night (the ‘night commuters’) where they slept anywhere they could lay their head because they were so much safer on the streets of the town that at home where they had a constant threat of rate, mutilation, murder and abduction hanging over them.

As usual we passed so much activity on the road; little kids with determined looks in their eyes, mangrove swamps, villages with a mixture of grass hut houses and new concrete buildings, and every so often a crowd of people gathered around their village water pumps, maybe a few in the rivers washing. It was nice talking to David; he’d grown up in the surrounding area and it was good to have a local’s perspective. We drove through a trading post called Angangura and it looked like some sort of celebration was being prepared for. The school buildings were decorated with bunting and a big crowd of people were gathering, all entering the school green through metal detectors. We found out later that President Museveni was visiting to launch the local polio and measles vaccination program. It explained why there were so many traffic police on the roads leading to the trading post and why when we stopped a couple of miles later (so the boys could meet a call of nature!) I saw an army guy behind the trees keeping an eye on what we were doing.

We continued on and after a right turn found ourselves in Pajule, a small trading post with a few houses and shops. We pulled into the medical centre which wasn’t too busy; again a lot of people had taken their children to the mass measles vaccinations. George and Kate set up the medical clinic whilst Hugh, Becky, Drew and I set about setting up the clothes distribution. We found a village leader and helped by David got everyone organised into a covered area, it wasn’t ideal because it restricted space (potentially trapping us and the villagers!) but we went with it. As they had yesterday, the small group of people turned into a much bigger group. We set up the table outside so people could filter through, the boys sorting the clothes and Becky and I arranging them on our table. We set off with a steady stream of villagers, trying our best to match clothing to each person, but as we were running out of clothes it got more and more difficult. A character of an old lady came back requesting another item as the one we’d given her didn’t fit so everything stopped for a while whilst she tried it on and admired herself… I guess she’d earned the privilege! We saw some cases of the ‘nodding head’ disease (Nodding Syndrome) that is affecting young children in this particular region of Uganda. It’s a debilitating disease (similar to epilepsy) of which no cause or treatment has been found. Hugh and Becky include a link to a BBC news article http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-17589445 in their blog, it explains more about it. It’s pretty tragic.

All in all the distribution went really well, we had a bit of a crazy rush at the end when people realised we were running out of clothes and started surging forward. I was terrified someone was going to get crushed so we called a halt to it and returned to the cars. We had some items left but we drove off for a while to disperse the crowd, stopping at a small trading post further up the road for a drink. It was eventually safe to return so we went back and distributed the remaining clothes to those that had helped us and to some people waiting for the medical clinic whilst George and Kate finished off. They’d seen 12 patients and were happy because they’d been able to make a difference to them and finish seeing everyone; usually George has to leave before everyone can be seen. Hugh and Becky helped one lady who was waiting to see George because she needed something for her walking stick; it was rubbing her (her arm was red raw) so they fashioned something using sponge and leftover socks and she was delighted. We left for home early evening with only a few items left that Drew and I handed them out the windows to people as we passed them walking along the roads. The majority were surprised but their confused expressions quickly turned into a smile of delight. A lady with no shoes on put the flip flops we gave her on straight away. There were some that were a bit baffled and refused anything. On the way back David was looking to buy some of the charcoal that’s sold in bags by the side of the road so we stopped every now and again to check out the different vendor’s. We passed a mass grave on the way home, marked by a large cross, where a group of people killed by a particularly nasty rebel incident are buried. It’s just another world, how lucky we are.

As we approached Angangura we saw a helicopter flying off, Museveni must have just left. The most surreal drive of my life started then… Firstly there were obviously very important people leaving the gathering and they were coming back towards us in big smart cars. That wasn’t too bad. Secondly several big army vehicles full of troops pulled out in front of us, forming a convey surrounding some more important looking vehicles. That was a bit crazy but wasn’t too bad either. Finally, as it was getting dark and we were driving away from the trading post two huge black armoured vehicles pulled out directly in front of us with some very hard core looking troops on board. It was completely crazy and although I wasn’t really scared I was nervous. I was very aware of the amount of arms powerin the vicinity but I should have taken a lead from the locals who didn’t seem phased in the slightest. And as Drew said, I had no reason to be worried about driving in the dark (as I usually am) with these guys about! The troops didn’t seem bothered by us, although I was on tenterhooks the whole time that David was going to go into the back of them!

It was surreal, just because there we were, travelling along a long bumpy track following these elite troops in the dark and all we could see were them, shining in the headlights and the steady stream of passer’s by emerging out the dusty darkness. David overtook one which caused Drew and I to say “Uh David, are we allowed to do that?” but we did and for a while we were between the two vehicles before David got past the other and we were away. Phew. It was one of those times when I wished more than usual that I could transport people from home to where I was just for those few moments to experience it. I’ll tell you one thing, the buses and lorries that usually don’t slow down for anyone actually do stop for something… the Ugandan army!

Back in Gulu we went to George’s friends for pizza and a drink. We were all tired out and after marvelling at the huge insects for a while we headed home. We were covered in dust and needed a shower and bed.



Sunday 27^th May – GULU

We had a steady day today. After breakfast (the breakfast in Bomah was lovely, there was a mixture of hot and cold stuff which could include anything from hash browns to kidneys/liver and most importantly… baked beans!) we set about getting the car fixed in Gulu. We stopped off at the Uchiimi supermarket and then to the market which had been moved from its previous location so was in the process of re-establishing itself. It was a pretty impressive market, you could buy anything and get anything done there; Becky takes anything she needs fixing (e.g. a zip up bag) every year. We had fun with a few of the fruit seller’s bartering over prices. We chilled out in the hotel for a while on saw on the TV that the Congolese refugees in Uganda were being told they had to move away from the border for security… we’d only been there a week or so ago.

In the evening we visited Sir Samuel Bakers Fort, a ruin Hugh and Becky knew outside of Gulu. They were not 100% sure of its location so we tried Google, that wasn’t much help so we trusted Hugh’s sense of direction and stumbled across it. We watched a big lightning storm on the approach which made us reluctant to get out of the car, because the area is known for the number of people killed by lightning strikes. As we drove in we passed and group of villager’s singing and dancing and we did get out which was good as it was a lovely evening. It wasn’t the sort of Fort I expected, not even for a ruined Fort. It was a small area of big rocks that created a natural Fort. We climbed up through the entrance and it wasn’t long before some of the villagers joined us… the children arrived first, then an older man who wanted to act as our guide and then two youths who made me feel a bit nervous as they approached (we were the only ones there, and it was remote, so I thought we were a bit vulnerable) but they just wanted to be part of it and show us around for some money (I need to not be so quick to judge). I don’t think they get many visitors so I relaxed. The man came to sign us in (there was a proper visitors book, bit random seeing it out in the open outdoors) and he charged us our entry fee. Then the village man took Hugh, Becky and I on our tour (Drew was trying to do his deep thinking ‘alone’ thing but not having much luck as the children wouldn’t leave him alone). The fort has a fascinating history; it was used by Arab slave trader’s to keep and trade slaves (the British were not the only slave traders in Africa) and is named after Sir Samuel Baker (it also has a local name) in honour of his anti-slavery work in the area. It’s a pretty gruesome story. There were parts called the ‘prison’, the killing fields (there are still marks where the axes fell) and a natural shooting range. The British were not the only slave masters in Africa. The Fort was in a stunning location. The view was out over a massive tree filled valley filled with lush vegetation against the backdrop of a lightning storm in the distance (we were lucky it wasn’t raining for us). I’m not sure how I did it but I actually managed to capture a lightning bolt (love my camera). The children were fascinating and once we’d tipped the man and youths they left us with the children vying for our attention. They started a game rolling fruit down one slope (aka the killing field) and their laughter filled the air. I was taking photos for them which they loved so I tried video which they loved even more, they’d dance and perform and then watch it back. They found it hysterical. They started posing and I played around with my camera settings and I got some great photos. I really wanted to be able to print them and take them back for the children to keep, maybe one day. It was hard to say bye to them, but we had to head back as it was getting too dark. As we drove off they ran as far as they could after us.

The drive home was impressive, in the dark with lightning lighting up the sky and people just disappearing out of the darkness, again the usual walking traffic heading home. I’m glad Hugh was driving because it was hard to see them. We stopped off at Coffee Hut for something to eat, the power was out and they were out of pretty much everything so we had a nice mix mash of things. We enjoyed it although there was a really loud American next to us having a meeting with a local. He was awful, a young good looking chap but he had a self-important way about him and was talking in a loud patronizing manner. He’d done this and he’d done that, he kept mentioning Invisible Children and I’m not sure if he worked for them but he was so annoying we were glad when he headed out. We had another early night.



Monday 28^th May – GULU

We headed back to St Jude’s (http://www.stjudechildrenshome.org/english/) this morning to check on the push-chairs. On the way we had a chuckle when we passed a sign for a Dr who had a cure for everything including ‘Thieves’….! I’d love to know how that works! Hugh and Becky dropped Drew and I off (they had to do some more car fixing) and we were pleased to find all of the children in the push-chairs, although not the ones that had their names on (they’d been adjusted specially for each child). A quick explanation to the lovely nurse (who hadn’t been there when we’d delivered them) sorted it out. We had a play with them whilst they had their physio. The children in the pushchairs seemed so happy in their new chairs, much brighter and alert. The little girl that wouldn’t let go of us, was still looking lost so we gave her some more hugs. It was so hot and everyone ended up under the shade of the trees (a family of ducks that’d been parading around took shelter under a wheelchair) and at lunchtime some of the older children came to spend time with the younger disabled children. They all look after each other.

We all put some money together to get some wheelchairs fixed then Drew and Hugh headed into town to find some decent fly spray (the only potential solution we could find for the flies). A little boy at the school was running a high temperature and needed to go to hospital, St Jude’s couldn’t find transport so Hugh and Drew took him and the Nurse with a young girl who wanted to find out if she’d got into her school course (she had J ). Becky and I chatted to an American guy who’d built up a relationship with St Jude’s; he’s part of a charity that supports St Jude’s in the USA. We heard a little voice shouting hello and went in search and found Mairead’s sister Laura in the volunteer’s accommodation. She was really poorly, had just recovered from a previous bout of sickness only to have another so we looked after her whilst she was sick and helped her get some biscuits and water with rehydration salts down her. I think she really appreciated us being there, especially Becky the Nurse, it’s scary being poorly somewhere like that when you don’t know what’s wrong (it could be all sorts of horrible things) and you’re not confident in the hospitals. We contact Mairead for her so she headed back from the farm where she’d been supervising the volunteer builders.

We headed back to the hotel for lunch and saw on the news that Caesar Acellam (a senior commander in the LRA who was captured in mid-May and is currently in debate with authorities to determine if he should be given amnesty from prosecution, like other LRA members who’ve surrendered and been given amnesty in return for information) had just been flown into Gulu. I headed out to the Alcholi Inn with Hugh and Becky where they went swimming and to the gym and I did some Uni work. I was looked after by a big group of Bulgarian working men, I still have no idea what they were all doing there, somebody suggested they were road engineers. They were very nice anyway, offered me some potent looking Vodka. We went back to our hotel for dinner and talked about our plans to travel to the Kidepo National Park the next day. We really wanted to go, Kidepo has a reputation for being the best in Uganda but it involves a long drive into the Karamoja (some areas of which are very dangerous due to the infamous Karamojong cattle raiders who have a reputation as being dangerous) and we weren’t 100% sure where we were going (we didn’t want to end up in the ‘no go’ area). George had been coming with us but had had to return to Kampala on urgent business. So we decided to sleep on it and talk to Moses, George’s friend, when he arrived the next morning.

Drew got a call at 11pm from someone we’d been dealing with at the hotel… he wanted to tell Drew his story which was aimed at encouraging us to help him financially. This was a common occurrence during our stay in Uganda and it was always difficult to deal with the requests, whilst we have sympathy with people and would love to help we can’t afford to, and we couldn’t help everyone anyway. It’s always important that people can sustain themselves and become economically independent. It’s just a shame that so much western TV shows (all over the TV in Uganda, the Kardashian’s are particularly popular, no problem with that, I’m partial to it myself) portray a lifestyle that even we can’t achieve. We spent a lot of time explaining to people that not everyone outside of Africa lives like that.

Next up, our eventful trip to Kidepo!

Xx

NOTE: I use these updates to capture my memories and share what I'm doing on my travels with friends, family and anyone who’s interested enough to read. The views are my own and I try my best to ensure any information I share is fair and accurate but I do sometimes get things wrong. I welcome any feedback so I can make improvements and corrections for future readers. Thank you.

---

Photos

The drive to Pajule
Drew and David (driving)

Pajule Health Centre
The site of our 2nd clothes distribution and medical clinic.

Hugh and I!
Boxes unpacked and we're ready to go!

Everyone's ready...
We're about to start...

During the clothes distribution...
Everyone working hard and the people being fantastic.

Time to stop.
We were low on clothes and the crowd was surging.

Kate and George with a patient
The end of a successful medical clinic, where Kate and George were able to make a real difference.

Drew handing out the last few items to good homes
We stopped and gave them to whoever we saw on the road.

Arriving at Sir Samuel Baker
Hugh and Drew

On our tour of the fort...
With our friendly villagers and the stunning scenery behind.

Becky playing with the children.
A game using the slope and fruits off the trees.

Beautiful children having fun!
If you're friends with me on Facebook, you can see more pictures of the children messing about in front of the camera. They love to look back at the pictures of themselves - thank goodness for digital cameras.

Back at St Jude
The children happy in their new push-chairs.

Cool and peaceful...
Under the shade of the tree.

Posing!
Drew, Hugh and a friend in another from Sir Samuel Baker's Fort.

Lightning - the view from Sir Samuel Baker's Fort
I'm not sure how I managed to capture this, love my camera!