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Published: October 24th 2008
Camping first night
Back in business - camping again - after Arusha
We were off reasonably early to Moshi
where we spent an inordinately long time cashing some dollars in a local bank. Firstly the counter queues were horrendous and then the form filling for a simple transaction was copious and tedious. It took about an hour! Then to fill up our tanks, the cost of diesel in Tanzania is equivalent to GBP1 per litre. Between Arusha and Moshi the speed controls were very restrictive, and this continued for some 5 miles or so beyond Moshi, along a very good road nonetheless. Moshi itself was very attractive; neat, tidy and relatively clean. The traffic was light and seemingly well mannered, certainly there was little evidence of the ill mannered mtatu driving seen in Kenya.
We continued eastwards, almost to the Kenya border, before turning south towards the South Pare Mountains
and the Usumbaras
, a spectacular range of mountains running north-south, the excellent road following the line where the ground rose almost vertically from the level plain where we drove. There was a gap dividing the two mountain ranges and here we left the main road and thrust into the scrubby bush to find a lovely camp site, like many we had on the first phase of OFTAT - totally remote and isolated. Nobody knew we were there!
Camp supper washed down by cold beer was a delight. We were all disturbed throughout the night by some extraordinary creature, bird beast we know not, which emitted a continuous cry very akin to a car alarm which nobody switched off. In fact we felt there were several of these creatures conversing with each other this way and it really did disturb us all.
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