Kilimanjaro

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After over 4 years hiatus from international travel concentrating on personal stuff including supporting ill family and buying my own flat by the end of 2014 it was time to think about a new adventure. I kind of had the feeling that climbing Kilimanjaro was just a bit much and something 'other people did' so initially dismissed it as an option. But if you think like that then you're right so decided to prove myself wrong.

Throughout 2015 I had plenty of warmups with a few munros including a very bad weather jaunt up snowy/icy Ben Nevis and also closer to home a regular burn of the 5 Tops of the Pentlands, Turnhouse Hill, Carnethy, Scald Law and the East and West Kips which gave me a good workout. By the time of the trip I had pretty strong legs and lungs and had got all the gear on the list.

The flight was KLM to Schipol from Edinburgh then onto Kilimanjaro international airport. For the first time in my life in view of the challenge at the other end I upgraded to Premium Economy for the legroom and it made for a much better flight and could enjoy pretty stunning sights like hours of flying over the Sahara desert. Arrived late at night and it was like being back on one of my big trips again with a flurry of taxi drivers offering rides but got my pickup and was soon resting up at the Weru Weru lodge near Moshi. Had a nice day by the pool getting mildly annoyed I'd forgotten both my camera and my phone charger (not like me at all!). Therefore all photos are curtesy of kind people on my group who took them and emailed on. Later on met the group for the big briefing, it's amazing the basics that get forgotten including a raincoat!?! but luckily I passed kit inspection with flying colours.

The next day after a huge breakfast we were lorried up to start our assault on the big mountain, the first forested section was an ordeal as we were caught in a downpour. Luckily by the time we reached 'Big Tree Forest' camp our tents were set up and got used to being in a tent which would be home for over a week. The first thing that struck me was the food, high in carbs, very tasty and in huge quantities, and always encouraged to eat until you burst, helps with the energy and also good for tackling altitude.

Forged on to Shira One Camp a larger camp on an open plain where we were only mildly nervous at the mention that lions had been heard in the distance from here. It was here that I was mildy hit by the altitude for the first time but it did trigger a migraine, this was not nice but after a sleep and enforced eating it did clear. In the night I popped out to the toilet hut a little way out into the bush from the camp, suddenly looked up and looming in the dark for the first time I could see the profile of Kilimanjaro proper, some moment.

We forged on for another day and this time came to Shira Camp Two a much rougher rocky camp. There was time in the day to head a bit higher up for a crucial aclimatization walk, I got very queasy and had to take a long nap but again eating huge quantities of chips helped recovery. By now it was clear I was prone to a bit of altitude sickness but by being strong mentally and doing the extra walks and forcing food and water down I might be okay. I was not on any drugs to counter it but was not convinved they acutally worked anyway.

Then for a tough day, the walk up Lava tower, it was hard, hard hard and I was getting very sick, again the wonderfull head guide had me forcing pasta down and it helped and recovered as we descended to Barranco camp, a huge migraine hit in and I was stumped when my water all froze so not great. Also by now our group had well bonded but one of our number in the night was carted down the mountain with fluid on his lungs. As this chap had summited ten years previous it bought it home to us that this was no walk in the park.

The next day I was thrilled to be back to normal which was just as well as we had to scramble up the impressive Barranco Wall, then a fairly long but not challenging walk to Karanga Camp. Very misty and by now my tent was caked in mud. At dinner we had the big briefing about how it was all going to be up to including summit night, it all felt a bit serious and daunting.

Onwards in a very slow walk to Barafu camp which is the last camp before summiting. An afternoon of major gear preparation and getting filled up with more carbs. The lead guide was a bit concerned at my general light headedness but it looked like I was going to be okay to make the big night. Then a few hours sleep before awaking at 11am for more food and a gear up. For the first time was zipped up in my Rab Neutrino jacket in slightly garish silver and orange lining but thats how to get a great jacket at discount, go for a lurid colour. At midnight with headtorche and packs on we began the long slog up the hill in a long chain of headtorches, a freaky experience to be honest.

It was a tough morning to say the least, my greatest physical and more so mental challenge, the altitude hit me and others very hard, people suddenly vomiting and some being turned back. However even in a state of sickly misery I could tell the sunrise was a stunning sight that will never be forgotten. The words of encouragement and little mantras kept me going but at one point a guide had to take my pack for me. We summited at Stella Point though I was so sick I never took it in, so was propped up literally for a photo and told by the head guide that now I was at the summit I would have to be taken down as a priority. Dissapointed not to see 'Uluru Point' but I had known for days I'd be lucky to even get to Barafu. Fitness was never a problem, the walking was relatively easy but the altitude for me was a killer not far above 3000 feet, so to get to nearly 6000 was a great acheviement personally.

So with a young guide taking my pack we shot back down to Barafu and feeling awful slept off the sickness waiting for the rest of my group to arrive. I was able to lunch with the rest of the group, roughly half like me made Stella and the rest made Uluru peak, but everyone summited so well down to 'Explore' whose guide team did a superb job in gradual aclimatization leading to all but one who set off summitting. We banged downhill to Millenium camp which was relative luxury and by now everyone was very jaded so a bit of grub and early nights all round.

Next morning was a 5 hour trek through rainforest back to a station where there was plenty of hot snacks and wonderfully mobile reception! We all were taken out for a huge lunch later then back to the Weru Weru lodge where had the luxury of 2 huge showers to get rid of nearly 10 days of dust, mud, sweat and who knows what. Then all fresh we had the big group celebration dinner.

On the last day in Tanzania it was no rest for the wicked, up by 0630 to go on a game drive to check out zebra, giraffe, hippo and baboons, all felt a bit smash and grab but a worthy add on considering the trip was on this occasion all about the mountain. Finally some time by the pool and high tea before we were glad to be taken by our by now beloved head guide back to the airport where many goodbyes were said.

A bad flight back as I had picked up a bug which stayed with me for weeks, and a weird stop at Rwanda and regretting I had not upgraded the return to premium, but glad to get to Schipol for hours of time killing but at least plenty of clean toilets. Quick hop back to Edinburgh then a taxi back to the flat where my girlfriend Sarah was waiting with a big smile and also informed me I'd left my camera on my front doorstep. Another huge shower, a nap then out for good old chip supper!

Overall doing Kilimanjaro was a wonderful thing for me, 2014 had been all about getting the flat which was great but ended it perhaps a bit jaded but the preparation for 9 months helped kickstart 2015 and I loved how a bunch of relatively indifferent strangers really pulled together to help each other through the challenge. For all that though it's the guides and the porters, without them the average punter would not get halfway up the mountain. I'm glad that as a group there was realization of that so we mutually agreed to tip way above the 'expected' and also at the end donated lots of our gear to the porters.

If considering this trip it's nothing new but whatever you do go with a good company that allows for climatization (Explore were excellent can't fault them) and ensure you are hill fit and been up a few hills though generally long hikes on the flat to get fitness up will do. As for altitude sickness I suffered badly but am glad I did what I did without using drugs. And so glad I did it as somehow signing up, preparing and doing helped in a big way make life in general so much more vibrant and brighter.

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Photos

Stella Point
About to collapse

Summit night
Without the guides we are nothing!

Time for a shower
Back at the hotel it's time for hot water and shower gel.

My tent
Mud and mud and mud!