Zanzibar

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Monday
September 17

I've realised I'm falling back into my old writing style when I write days after the event. If I write on the same day, it seems to read differently. Go figure. Sorry folks!

The alarm went off at 5am and even though all I had to do was dress and take my bag from the truck, I was flustered and running late when the tuk tuks arrived to take us to the first of two ferrys.
The first is more of a barge that carries us, tuk tuks and all, across to the city. A short ride down the road brings us to the crowded ferry terminal though the noise is minimal. People are still sleepy.
Tickets are paid for and handed out, weak black tea and coffee is tasted and discarded and then it's time to go. My sea sickness bracelets are on, I've taken three ginger tablets and I haven't eaten anything (so I've nothing to throw up!). Suse isn't joining us unfortunately and I hold the return tickets and passenger lists in my role as unofficial tour leader.
I made a beeline for the outside section at the front of the catamaran. The sky is overcast and threatening rain and sure enough before we leave, it starts to rain. I don't move though almost everyone else does. This is repeated several times until I'm the only one sitting in the rain watching the horizon. I yell to Denise and co that it's only water and we won't melt which makes the locals laugh.
The trip is as smooth as I could have wished for but I was thankful as the island appeared in the foggy distance and was eventually close enough to make out peoples' features on the shore.
A note of warning to the wonderful Irish people out there: although Tanzania only charges $USD50 for the visa at the border, Zanzibar charges an additional $50. The Americans had already paid $100 and the rest were fine but what the Irish have done to the Tanzanians, who knows. Our fixer Dan and I went to the embassy to try and sort it out and at first we thought we had but they had to pay on the way out, being told that Zanzibar has its own visa requirements. Not cool when it's part of Tanzania but no way around it.
Moving on. We stayed at Karibu Inn whose location is perfect for wandering the streets of Stone Town and the nearby night market. The dorm room looked amusingly like a hospital ward with eight single beds in two rows and mozzie nets overhead. Even with the fans going it was a little stuffy but bearable and I was happy.
We began the wonderful Spice Tour with Dan, visiting slave chambers before heading out to a local village where we had lunch in a family's home. Rice with potatoes and meat (and without for the other two), a kind of creamed spinach and an eggplant, potato curry kind of vegetable dish to pour over the rice. It was amazing. We sat on the mat covered floor with our backs against the wall and ate until we could eat no more. Definitely better than eating in a restaurant.
From there we drove out to one of the many plantations where the spices that Zanzibar is known for are grown. Definitely a highlight. We saw ginger, cinnamon, cardamon, lemongrass, cacao trees, pepper, cloves and many fruits we were able to try: jackfruit, custard apple, star fruit, super sour orange-like fruits and more.
We drank fresh coconut juice and ate the flesh as chickens picked up the scraps from around our feet after watching a guy bunny-hop up a ridiculously high palm tree to sing to us. A sore neck has never been so much fun.
The clouds cancelled the sunset we'd been hoping to see but we drank cocktails at Africa House irrespective of the view. From there we had Indian for dinner (I'd never actually eaten Indian before this trip which in hindsight is quite sad) and collapsed into bed; the early mornings having definitely caught up.

The following morning Denise and I went for a short wander before we all went to the local market, wandering through the stinky but fascinating seafood section with its fish placed in different patterns and fishmongers demands for payment for photos (so I don't have any), the meat section where I got splattered with bone chips and blood as I passed one butcher chopping a large piece into smaller, more manageable sizes and then into the fresh air scented with fruit, vegetables and spices. It was a lovely market with great looking produce (so much so that we were all willing to do the unnecessary cook shop there!) but we've seen markets before so most were ready to head to the beaches.
Passing lush greenery and driving through villages we arrived at Nungwi Beach just over an hour later. Through the doorway in reception I could see fine white sand and several shades of sparkling blue water. It was gorgeous.
As it turned out, I did very little. I caught up on sleep, walked along the beach, browsed the shops, had a massage and made it knee-deep into the water (hey, I made it further than some!). Perfect.

Our last night back in Stone Town allowed us time to go to Prison Island to play with tortoises then return in time to wander, see the sunset and visit the night markets for dinner.
The Seychelles had presented four tortoises to Zanzibar in exchange for flowers and their numbers were now up over 100, the eldest being 189 years old! Picking up the cabbage scattered around, we were allowed to wander amongst them and feed them, being careful to keep fingers out of the way as their reach was further than you'd expect!
A lunch of samosas, chapati and fresh fruit was provided as part of the tour and we sat on the beach watching the tide come in. And it came in fast. Twice I had to move back and rescue my drink!
The boat trip back was not even remotely fun. For thirty minutes I willed the mainland closer as the choppy waves bounced us around and the spray dampened our clothes. I'd do it again though to play with the tortoises!
At the night market, fresh seafood, Zanzibar pizzas and other assortments of food adorned tables as people tried to entice you to buy. Not being hungry, I looked on as the others chose skewers with beef, chicken, octopus, shark, barracuda and squid which were cooked and served on a paper plate with salad. We sat on the low wall that overlooked the water and I talked to two young boys whilst watching guys run and jump into the waist-deep water, eliminating almost any injury by belly flopping rather than diving. Ouch.
Eventually I ordered a beef pizza. A small blob of pastry was stretched to the size of two hands and mince meat, veggies, a wedge of Laughing Cow cheese were added to the centre and then mixed together with a raw egg. With the corners folded over it was thrown on the pan over a hot fire and smelt delicious. The taste didn't disappoint either.

I sat alone with the locals on the front of the ferry the following morning. The water looked calm but it was deceptive. Huge swells hit us sideways and sent women to the ground, heads on their seat while their men laughed at them.
It seemed some were treating the journey as an amusement park ride - one I would never have willingly got on. Arms up in the air, daring each other to not hold on, they laughed and carried on until soon, even they had had enough. Passing the small islands with the mainland in striking distance, I thought it would calm down but here, even bigger swells greeted us. It was my idea of a nightmare but thankfully my empty stomach stuck with me and I ended up feeling more nauseous on dry land.
I can't wait to go back and do it all over again.

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Photos

Spice Town, Stone Town
The church courtyard with a tribute to slaves

Holding cells for slaves
This tiny room held 75 people

Lunchtime
Lunch prepared by a local family, in their living room

Tumeric
Stains your hands. Lots of fun

Face paint
From a local plant, we could use it like makeup. So we did.

Jurassic park
Looking over the nearby fence, I half expected dinosaurs to wander our way!

Cloves
I never knew what cloves looked like, straight from the tree

I spy...
It's hard to spot him, but there's a guy climbing the palm trees for coconuts for us

House of Wonders
Now houses the National Museum

Local transport
You'd be amazed how many people they can squeeze in here!