Blogs from South, Tanzania, Africa


Africa » Tanzania » South » Mtwara October 16th 2019

Leaving Kilwa I was at the bus stand in the centre of Kilwa before 6 am ready for the Lindi ‘bus’. It was more like a coaster mini-bus and for the short distance along the road to Nangurukuru it seemed to double up as a school bus with standing room only for the school kids. It took 4 hours before the bone shaking mini-bus arrived at the bus park in Lindi. I jumped into a Bajaj and went straight to Coast Guest House and was welcomed in and given the room I had last time I was here. I dropped my bags and breakfasted for 1k, eating beans and chapatti with a very sweet tea at the tea shack on the beach across the road from my hotel. Back at my gaff I showered ... read more
Pilsner King
Nachi' bound
Boy, bike, mbao.

Africa » Tanzania » South » Lindi September 17th 2019

Kilwa Masoko Just to make life difficult the relevant authorities in Dar es Salaam have in their ultimate wisdom decided that bus stations for transport leaving Dar are on the outer edges the city. For those wanting to head to the south coast and cities near the Mozambique border the bus station you need to leave from is Mbagala, Rangi Tatu. The destination on the front of the daladala from the centre of town read ‘M/rangi 3’ or ‘Mbagala R/3’ and about10k south of town along the Kilwa road I spotted a road-sign pointing to the bus stand. I alighted at the next stop only to be surrounded by market stalls, I asked for directions for the bus park and was pointed around the corner. I felt pretty sure I’d get a seat on the 11am ... read more

Africa » Tanzania » South » Songea August 25th 2019

Riesiges Krankenhaus, großer, überdachter Wartebereich, Anmeldung, die einzelnen Abteilungen - alles so ähnlich, wie bei uns, halt in Afrikanisch. Der Eingsngsbereich wurde von einer Augsburger Architektin gestaltet. Der Boden ist geschliffene Travertin. Bei Regen spiegelglatt. Das Dach wird von einer sehr merkwürdigen Holzkonstruktion getragen. Kirche:riesig. Ich ging schlauerweise in die 7.00 Messe, kam da auch noch zu spät und erst nach der Predigt. Aber ich hatte die richtige Annahme, dass nämlich diese Messe viel kürzer sein würde, als die um 10.00. Die hat dann tatsächlich fast drei Stunden gedauert, aber da saß ich vor der Kirche auf einem Mäuerchen, häkelte ein Einkaufsnetz und schwatzte mit Vorbeikommenden. Bei jeder Messe war ein Chor zu Gange - vielleicht war es auch der selbe, die waren so begeistert, dass ich mir das vorstellen kann. Keyboard, Rasseln, Trommeln, alle Lieder ... read more

Africa » Tanzania » South » Songea August 25th 2019

Ich hatte Order, um 8.00 bereit zu sein, Schwester Elisabeth kam, ein Fahrer fuhr vor und los gingˋs. Zuerst zu der Leprastation, nur etwa 5 km von P. Dort sind im Moment nur noch vier Leprakranke plus ein Gesunder, der der Bruder eines Kranken ist und sonst nirgends hin kann. Es gibt ein Zentrum, wo die Nahrungsmittel gelagert werden und auch die Küche ist. Jeden Morgen wird die tägliche Ration ausgegeben und dann wird gekocht. Die Kranken wohnen in kleinen Häusern, die die Deutsche Leprahilfe gebaut hat, im Moment sind nur zwei Häuser belegt, die anderen sind vermietet, die Miete (etwa 5 Euro pro Monat) wird wieder für die Versorgung der Kranken verwendet. Diese vier Leprösen haben zusammen drei Beine, der Rest sind Stümpfe, Finger sind ebenfalls sehr knapp, Augen, alles Mögliche fehlt. Einer hat eine ... read more

Africa » Tanzania » South » Songea August 24th 2019

Ich hasse es, wenn ich mit jemandem reisen muss, der zwar von dort ist, aber sich trotzdem nicht auskennt. Schwester Bernarda brachte Schwester Veronika und mich zum Busbahnhof. Dieser ist ganz neu und somit kennt sich noch niemand so recht aus. Das ist nämlich eine der Infrastrukturmaßnahmen des Staates, dass überall neue Busbahnhöfe gebaut werden. Weil im Ort natürlich kein Platz dafür ist, werden sie weit draußen gebaut, man muss also nach der Ankunft erst mal ein Taxi nehmen und in den Ort rein fahren. An diesem Busbahnhof irrten wir wie die kopflosen Hühner umher, um die Stelle zu finden, wo der Bus abfährt. Ich weiß imer noch nicht, warum keiner auf die Idee kam, zu fragen... Lustigerweise heißt der Bus FEO Express, er hat die 200 km nach Songea tatsächlich in vier Stunden geschafft. Uwemba ... read more

Africa » Tanzania » South June 5th 2018

The little boys sprint over from the soccer field when they see me carrying empty buckets. They fight for their chance to carry my water, knowing there'll be a treat involved. Fifteen minutes later, seven children in tattered sweaters with huge smiles come into my courtyard carrying buckets full of precious water. Dry season is sneaking in and my gutters are dry. These little boys get lucky; I have a plethora of avocados and hand each of them half of one in addition to the normal allotment of 3 jelly beans. Their huge smiles bring me joy knowing there will be something in their tummies. I close the courtyard door and go inside to cook lunch. Half an hour later I open my back door. The courtyard is open, solar panel turned upside down, and ... read more

Africa » Tanzania » South March 9th 2018

A long time ago, I was on a date with a guy teaching me to drive his Jeep on the beach. He asked me if I wanted to do donuts. The sand and water we were flinging off the tires felt wild and adventurous, but I hesitated. “I feel like I’m going to flip it!” I sang, in awe of the general experience. “Nah,” he said, “You’d feel gravity shift.” I’d feel gravity shift. The memory came rushing back as the minibus swerved across the highway with a nauseating lean to one side. It wasn’t like that feeling of dropping, or even of inertia. The feeling was a sickening sideways tummy-tumble that let you know you’d be going home in a flag-draped coffin had you not strapped in. This time, the driver, who may ... read more
Finished my second garden plot!
The tears of a thousand PCVs!!

Africa » Tanzania » South February 24th 2018

I lean my forehead against the concrete wall, close my eyes and whisper “Thank you..” to God, the Universe, or whoever sent magical rays of light from my single shade-less bulb after too long with no electricity. It’s not bad, really, living without electricity, if there’s sunshine. On sunny days, I can place my inflatable solar lights outside and charge up my phone on the hand-me-down solar panel that replaced my stolen one. If I preserve my charge, I know I can at least make a call in an emergency (assuming I have a moment of cellular service at site). During the rainy season, when a week passes with no electricity, I watch each of my lanterns dim until I’m down to just a candle. My phone stays dead, and I just pray I don’t run ... read more
Kigamboni Beach in Dar
Mumsie's coop renovation
Boiled tater demo!

Africa » Tanzania » South December 9th 2017

Scene one- I’m on my knees, begging God for the patience to tolerate that fact that, for the sixth time, no one, including my work partner, has shown up to the children’s training program that the school was so excited to support. I even spoke face to face with the teachers just yesterday, gritting my teeth as one of them (who’s been my neighbor for eight months now) yelled to the students (who I scold daily for calling me Mzungu instead of my name), “WHO’S DOING THE TRAINING WITH THE MZUNGU?!!” Another teacher looked embarrassed and added “Kate..” quietly, but the rest of them carried on with the leader’s example, discussing the Mzungu’s training. It doesn’t help that these same teachers, who have not shown interest in any of the three grant projects I’m currently pursuing ... read more
Thanks to another PCVs mama, my little tree now occupies my yoga table!
OMG Cookiessss!!!
Finished products

Africa » Tanzania » South November 25th 2017

In a few hours, the bundled little batches of children will be scurrying to see the Snoopy Floats, the boys will be sent outside to fry the turkey, and my mom and sisters will be hugging, pouring, flouring, and shoving casserole dishes into the oven like little squirrels storing their nuts for the winter. It’s just what we do. They’ll probably pour a glass of wine after a couple cups of coffee, or crack open a craft beer. The girls will be so occupied hosting, they’ll forget their glass and will have only finished one by the time my brothers are on number three. Typical, or, eh.. stereotypical. But I love it. It’s Thanksgiving, 2017. At 6am my alarm went off, reminding me that I’ll need to light the charcoals for coffee this morning. My gas ... read more
The Chosen One
Baking in the Peace Corps-- no ovens here!
Our Thanksgiving Tribe

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