I bless the rains down in Africa

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Geo: -2.4492, 34.5932

DAY SIX (Wednesday, September 9, 2009)



Ain't no way to hide your LION eyes.

Today was our sleep-in day. No need to depart until 9 am. However, today we departed our luggage as well. We were limited to our Tauck duffel bags for the next two nights. We will have a reunion with our luggage in Arusha when we transfer to Kenya on Friday.

Our traveling companions today were Stephanie Foote and Carol Sobol of Denver; our guide was Assand. First up as we left Ngorongoro was a Big Sky Montana view of the Serengeti Plain. And appropriately enough, our first encounter was with giraffes, which is the animal I normally associate with the area. It turns out the giraffe is the national symbol of Tanzania, because it can't back up, it can only go forward. Tanzania officials loved the symbolism, AND the fact that the giraffe is the most peaceful animal in the plains.

Next was a long and very bumpy ride out of Ngorongoro where the roads are pitiful and into the Serengeti where at least they are graded.

We arrived late morning at Olduvai Gorge (see description on Day Five). FYI, a gorge is the same as a canyon, only not as deep. We had a lecture on the archeological significance of the gorge and the anthropologists who have made history there.

We headed to Nobi Hill rest area where we did, in fact, have a box lunch. The picnic area was populated by some gorgeous metallic aqua Superb Starlings.

Our first encounters in the Serengeti were reunions with animals we had already met ... the Tommy and Grant gazelles who were on high alert today, which Assand explained meant there was danger (read: Big Cat) around. I got a photo of a Tommy on a termite mound keeping watch.

We approached "Pride Rock" (you remember, those humongous rock outcroppings featured in Lion King), expecting to find lions. We did not. We found some very interesting blue and red Agama Lizards, but no Simbas.

We moved on and were rewarded. A gorgeous cheetah was lying under a tree/bush, enjoying what little shade was available on the Serengeti. He was far away but I finally nabbed a fine shot.

We encountered a Secretary Bird which has a crown of plumes on its head, not unlike a peacock's tail. We met some reed bucks, more gazelles and additional buffalo.

And THEN, the king of the jungle. Mufasa was enjoying an afternoon breeze, blown in by an impending rain. He looked quite regal under a lovely umbrella acacia. His pride included six females, keeping a watch nearby on potential prey.

Mufasa wandered across the road, right between two of our four 4x4's. Close enough to touch, but not really advisable. He plopped in the grass the way my big Golden Retriever does. He sat up proudly, looking ever so much the king of the jungle.

With that, it started to rain, which all the natives hope is the start of the “short rains”, since things are so dry and so many things are dying. A family of elephants went by, looking much darker than others because of the rain. The immediate blessing was the reduction in dust and in the number of people coughing.

We saw some black-faced vervet monkeys, and a lot more of our old friends: gazelles, zebras, giraffes, Cape buffalo and warthogs. At another oasis similar to yesterday's, we found a lot of hippos and a lot of birds (esp. a lot of Marabou Storks). We finished our drive with an introduction to the dik dik, a gazelle that roams the hotel property.

We checked into Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge, made up of domed huts with thatched roofs. Very cute. The main lodge is quite handsome and very thematic. Wood-carved warriors, thatched roofs, and a disappearing edge swimming pool overlooking the Serengeti.

We cleaned up and headed to dinner at 7:30 pm. After dark, the hotel requires all guests to have an escort on the property, because of the threat of animals. We saw lions and Cape buffalo just a few miles away so I guess I get it.

Buffet was better than the first two hotels. Wonderful roasted vegetables and grilled meats were featured.

This hotel also has mosquito netting. They really stress the use of DEET, keeping the windows shut and the netting closed. I would like to have had screens on our sliding doors overlooking the Serengeti. But someone pointed out that almost all the animals out there could charge in. 'Nuf said.

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Photos

Olduvai Gorge
Cradle of mankind, important for archeological discoveries in its five cake layers