bus

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The road from Dodoma northwards to kondoa was very bumpy and very dry. The houses are flat and rectangular and made of bricks by the warangi people mostly. Spent one night in this small town---walking around and spending lots of time speaking with the women selling fruits in the market. The bus to Babati and then to Arusha where I am now was also completely dusty though not crowded at all so enjoyable. I had to breath through a kanga most of the time and when i had to scratch my nose I ended up scratching my face---lots of bumps, no asphault. Houses became round, out of straw and mud---massai country. Took a try of a medicine for clearing the head from the massai sitting next to me. Played clapping games and footsie with a very energenic daughter of a preacher on my other side.
Arusha is not at all what i thought it would be. I havent been bothered once by people tauting safaris--probably because im not wearing the very rigid tourist uniform. its funny how the market they warn against in the guidebooks is actually far better with more selection of kitenge and fruit, friendly female-dominated atmosphere, and better prices than the "central" market. I am staying in a "backpackers" place---a new experience and a treat with hot water showers and sit-toilets and big beds and clean and tv upstairs and in-house bar--though the most expensive accomodation ive had on this trip at 6 dollars a night. even camping in the game park in malawi was 5 dollars. Though, it feels appropriate to have treats at the end of a journey. today i collected some more kitenge and even bought some beads and string from a bulk chinese bead dealer so i have something to do in the airports. and some spices--masala and ground ginger.
Tomorrow I go to the border with kenya-Namanga and will decide to stay there or in some small town between there and nairobi. not really looking forward to the chaos of nairobi, though it seems i can find peace anywhere now. besides, i gotta stock up on the cheap curio-type things and nairobi has the cheapest of all. the SLC house has to have a bao/kinda like mancala game set--very fun by malawian rules and ive collected my own seeds for the pieces.
love to all!

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