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Published: August 30th 2006
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The flight to Dar es Salaam boarded on time despite the complaints from the cranky British tourists - who thought they had been waiting too long in the lounge before boarding. Now I hate to stereotype..but have found in the last few weeks that the Brits and the Germans can be quite rude - not sure what that is about!
Any way… as we approached the plane on ground each of us picked out our luggage that was lined up in rows on the tarmac. I was quite relieved with this as I physically saw my luggage put on the plane. What I didn’t see happen was it removed some 15 minutes later - as I learned later from a fellow passenger. We had a smooth flight - most of the plane was full of German and British tourists heading to Zanzibar - our first stop. We arrived in Dar on time and after working speedily through customs, securing my Tanzania Visa for $50USD - going rate for Visa’s in airports in East Africa, I came to the baggage ramp - and no luggage…no luggage for all of us Dar passengers. Now things got interesting because we had to fill out paper work and I had no idea where I was staying. Didn’t seem important that I have this information given that a driver was picking me up at the Dar airport arranged by Aga Khan University. A chica lesson --- always be sure to know where you are staying in foreign lands so baggage can be delivered. I was also now grateful that a check-in clerk had made me re-pack my suitcase on the scale so that I could meet the weight restriction of 20 kgs for flying in East Africa (which by the way is not very much) . I retrieved my toiletries bag and a book which put me under. So again funny how things work out - I at least could brush my teeth and wash my face!
So an hour later, armed with a piece of paper to claim my lost luggage should it turn up, I walked out of the secure baggage area and was very relieved to see a smiling man holding a sign with my name on it! First time for me and very welcome! So off we went, Obote and I travelling very light, in search of my hotel - which I learned was the Sea Cliff on the peninsula. Of course it was pitch black - so had no idea where I was. Obote dropped me off and I was escorted to a lovely room after passing through a very cute shopping village. I spied a bookstore and made a mental note to check it out as the only book stores in Kisumu are of the religious or school text book variety. Novels are also extremely expensive here - some 16 to 20 USD per soft cover. I also made a mental note that I may have to shop for clothes if my suitcase doesn’t show up. Hakuna Mattata!
I awoke early for me: 6:30 ish and realized that I had no idea what time I was to be ready and where I was to be picked up. And my phone was not working….I would have to change my tariff to roam in Tanzania - I decided for the 3 days that it wasn’t worth it. So as I am learning to do much of here in Africa…I shrugged my shoulders and decided to trust…all would work out. So off to breakfast I went. I also discovered that the Sea Cliff hotel is located on the ocean - and that would be the Indian Ocean folks - my first glimpse - simply gorgeous! Dar has the potential in my opinion to be a lovely resort spot. Its cousin Zanzibar currently gets all the action. But as for Dar..I loved what I saw!
And guess what... Obote found me shortly after 8 am wandering the sea wall and we were off to the AKU-Institute for Educational Development (IED). I was welcomed with open arms by my host Gordon Macleod and gratefully handed over the task of locating my luggage to Fatuma - Gordon’s amazing assistant. Gordon and I had met in Calgary a few days before I left. He was attending a conference and we managed to have a beer at the home of CharlieWebber. Seeing Gordon was like greeting an old friend. Funny how that is! And the hospitality shown to me by Gordon and his staff team - amazing and warm. Arrangements over the next two days had been made for me to spend time with each of his new staff. As well, meetings had been set up to visit with the directors of the Health Services and Nursing programs. A tour of the Aga Khan Hospital was also in the plans.
AKU-IED East Africa is in start-up mode. This is a project that Jim Gray and Sherali Saju introduced me to in Calgary. They are raising private funds in Western Canada in concert with the Aga Khan Foundation to support its operations and construction. Funding from CIDA is also being sought. This Institute for Educational Development is modelled after a very successful institute in Karachi Pakistan. Gordon was head of IED Pakistan before coming to Dar to set up this second institute. Its purpose is to provide professional development, diploma and degree offerings for teachers and teaching administrators in all three East African Countries of Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania. Let me give you some context on the need and challenge. Free public education up to grade 6 was introduced in Kenya four years ago and the system has been unable to meet demands let alone provide quality teachers. The system is bursting at the seams and the quality of education is rapidly declining. It is common to have 100 children or more per class room - all with varying levels of formal education. This is the gap that AKU-IED is trying to fill. - providing supports, education and techniques for primary and secondary teachers. And this is no small feat trying to work across 3 educational systems in varying degrees of development, with 3 different curriculums. Then there is the challenge of basic infrastructure and resources. Frequently power is not available and they struggle to get access to current books and resources for students. Most of all they struggle to find and attract qualified faculty particularly of East African descent. This is one of the many aspects of the Aga Khan Development Network philosophy that I admire - they seek to be relevant in the countries they work by empowering and educating local people to take up the charge and build the countries human resources. I can think of no better person than Gordon to lead the IED charge. His passion and track record instills nothing but confidence!
I also had the pleasure of meeting Gordon’s wife and partner Pauline. Pauline has joined Gordon on this adventure..living in Karachi (which they both loved), now Dar and they hope at some point to return to Australia to retire. I was welcomed into their home for a drink before we headed off to dinner at my hotel. The drive to their home well was quite the experience. I had teased Gordon about his 4 by 4…but quickly realized this was necessary. Now the main roads in Dar are paved - far superior to anything I experienced in Kenya…but that changes once you get off the main roads. And during the rains…you can actually disappear in 5 foot deep potholes - happened a couple of times to Gordon and that is when he lobbied and succeeded in getting a suitably safe vehicle. Gordon and Pauline are leasing a lovely two story home from the Dutch embassy…it is on the water and protected to embassy standards. It is not located in the Ex-Pat community - so is a little cheaper because it resides in an African neighbourhood. Gordon and Pauline are not much for the ex-Pat lifestyle - another reason why I think we hit it off - we all have a streak of irreverence in us. Gordon and Pauline also have two lovely dogs - part ridge back I think. And well was I glad to fawn all over them...being in complete dog withdrawal for my own. I enjoyed two lovely dinners with the Macleods and look forward to spending more time with them both. They have also given me the inside scoop on places and things to do in Pakistan - again both loved their time there and their excitement and passion are infectious. And oh yes…my luggage arrived the Wednesday evening. Was retrieved and delivered by one of the AKU staff - talk about service and talk about relief!
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Guylaine Lemaire
non-member comment
Jetsetter
Hi Chica, You are in constant motion!! I am pleased to read that all your travel is going well, moreover, even more surprized that each time you loose your luggage, you find them again. There must be an angel keeping a watchful eye on you, and that's a good thing! I am amazed as how many lovely people you meet on your travel path and how hospitable folks are. Take a good care of yourself. Chica Guylaine