Swaziland Day 1 & 2: HIV Positive

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We split the day between Kruger in the morning and Swaziland in the afternoon. Myths abound regarding Swaziland, so I will place information on here that I think is the best characterization of how things are.

There is just not much happening in Swaziland. It is a mountainous country, at least in the west end. The country's real claim to fame is that at LEAST 30%!o(MISSING)f the population has HIV. "At least" because that is the percentage of the sample of the million population that has been identified as such but it is likely the number is much higher.

The African Experience

Ah yes, people walking on the highway, people wearing random items of clothing, but nothing beats the African bureaucrat. We got our taste, without issue, at the Kingdom of Swaziland's Jeppe's Reef border entry. Hot and sweaty, people piled in, milling here and there in this little office, a look of complete disconnection for the immigration officer and customs officer. They didn't play any games as you might expect but we did have to pay a 50 Rand Road Improvement Fee, because the King, in his infinite gracefulness would not stoop so low as just take a visa fee to rip tourists off. So . . . how were the roads? Not that bad actually, except for the last 10 kilometers up to Mhlambanyatsi. It's a mouthful, I know, I STILL cannot remember the full name, and I am usually pretty good at that. But Mhlambanyatsi is a high altitude town, maybe even "alpine" as Africa goes.

We drove down a good portion of the country's western half yesterday after crossing the Jeppe's Reef Border Post. You'd better be on time because these Border Posts maintain hours and are closed at night - impossible to get into the country! On our way we passed through Pigg's Peak and Mbabane. The first is known for its casino, not impressive at all, and for the craft merchants along the road - we did not realize this was a tourist attraction until after we had read our guide later on. Whoever stops to buy that junk is crazy in my opinion. There are throngs of people and cows walking along the main road, sorry wish I had taken pictures, but it is hard enough to find a good place to stop on the roadside, and probably not all that advisable to do it near people while taking pictures of them. I've never started a riot but that might be a good way.

Mbabane is a topographically interesting city, not that large of a capital city, but to be expected when the Kingdom's population is only 1 million. We did not detour into the city center but got a flavor from the highway.

Mhlambanyatsi and Foresters Arms Hotel

Like the rest of the country, neither are much to look at but Mhlambanyatsi has an alpine feel to it when compared to the lower areas. There is also a more rarefied air that comes with that and you do not have the throngs of people on the roads. Foresters Arms is a comfortable hotel, definitely a throwback place, coming about when the Kingdom fist gained independence from Britain in the late '60's. The room was updated but I think overpriced for what we paid. The rate does include a much touted nine course dinner which we skipped as we were still recovering from jet lag and the long drive. Breakfast was not bad this morning, I was pretty hungry since I had not eaten since the previous morning at Tinga. The hotel also touts the many local activities, which are not so many, but we ended up going a short hike across the way from the hotel. You can see the photos.

Lost Again in Jozie

We have gone well past a thousand kilometers, about 1200km now. Except for tomorrow's morning drive to the airport, I am done for at least a couple of days . . . then desert driving! The N12 to N3 North connection still confuses me and we ended up going south and had to do a turn around off of the M2. I know that means nothing except that we had to go on a couple of loop-da-loops.

The Hilton Sandton still has lousy service but they offer a shuttle service to Sandton City Mall, so we did that and went to Nelson Mandela Square where we ate some Indian food at Bhokara. The food three is quite good although the restaurant has an unusual location and was largely empty. The mall is interesting as it is a blend of designer fashion stores and local stores masquerading as high fashion with cheap junk.

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Photos

Swazi Roadside Cows
They own the road as much as we do!

Swaziland Landscape
If not for a heavy lumber industry, this country would be a paradise.

Swaziland's Highveld
You could think you were in Scotland sometimes.

Lumber Truck
Industry is not obvious is Swaziland, but this one is. There are massive sawmills off the highway and fresh cuttings and plantings of trees. The mountains are not excessively bare, but the fact that the tall pines are planted in neat rows is unnatural.

Highest Rate of Lightning Fatalities
As we approach Mhlambanyatsi, the weather quickly turns. We saw lightning earlier, with no thunder clouds - is that even possible? Swaziland has the highest incidence of people hit by lightning in the world.

Foresters Arms
Our room in Swaziland, the place definitely has some 1970's flavor to it, but the rooms are reasonably well updated. No aircon, so count on those mountain breezes!

View from our Porch
At Foresters Arms. Yes, the field to left was recently deforested and new plantations are on the slope adjacent.

Millipede
We did not see many animals in Swaziland's mountains, but there are many of these. They were mating, some as long as 20 centimeters (8 inches).

Our Short Hike
This is really a bridle trail through a tree plantation. Our first real walking in Africa, sadly walking in Joburg might get you killed by the people and walking in Kruger might get you killed by the animals.

Clearing
Not sure what this is, looked like an old quarry of some kind, we seemed to be standing on some marble.

Swaziland Landscape
On our bridle path trail.

Waiting in Line
At the Ngwenya Border Post. More and more people just kept materializing in the line ahead of us. This was a much better experience than Jeppe's Reef.