Blogs from North, Sudan, Africa


Africa » Sudan » North » Atbara January 29th 2015

The Nubian mausoleums within the current borders of Sudan are famous amongst Archaeologists and Pyramidaphiles a like. However seemingly the current Sudan residents don't quite value them in quite the same way. On my first attempt to visit these red teeth rising up through swirling yellow sands, the driver decided that a much more worthy site was the "world famous" mango market. I have to say I do like a good mango, the market however tends to lend itself to buying as opposed to eating (NB: As it was Ramadan, we couldn't eat them even after buying!) and as such I was rather disappointed to have skipped past the pyramids. Once again (re: Nigeria blog) I had to remember my youth and John Cleese's documentary about fruit-based assailants. Luckily I had prepared for such an event, ... read more
Nubian Mango Market
Breaking Fast

Africa » Sudan » North » Dongola May 2nd 2014

Bus je krenuo kroz ne baš zanimljiv Sudanski krajolik. Dok Egipatski dio Sahare izgleda poprilično romantično sa svojim dinama i žutim pijeskom, Nubija (Sudanski dio Sahare) je jednostavno hrpa nepregledne bezlične sive prašine. Zanimljivo je bilo da usred te pustoši se zna dogoditi da netko od putnika vikne vozaču da stane, izađe, uzme stvari i krene pješke u naizgled ništavilo. Kako uopće prepozna u tom sivilu gdje treba izaći mi nije ni dan danas jasno. Isto tako svako malo se uz cestu usred pustinje nađe i poneki novi putnik. I tako smo Juan i ja sjedili na mjestu za 3 osobe ss još4 suputnika. Klima je bila na maksimumu jer da nije pitanje koliko bi nas uopće stiglo do cilja. Tu sam zapravo i prvi put imao priliku malo bolje upoznati svog suputnika i novog prijatelja. ... read more
Plaža na obali Nila

Africa » Sudan » North » Wadi Halfa April 30th 2014

U Wadi Halfi sam prvi put dobio neki lagani osjećaj da sam u Africi. Wadi Halfa sama po sebi ne nudi baš ništa. Maleni pustinjski gradić, pržen na preko 45 stupnjeva, bez ikakvog raslinja kojem za koji je očito da postoji samo zbog trajekta. Nekoliko dućana, jedan restoran (odnosno bolji naziv bi bila zalogajnica) i nekoliko nastambi koje iznajmljuju sobe. A dotične je kad dođe trajekt jako teško naći. U kombinaciji s jednim Britansko – Jamajkanskim parom smo se uputili u potragu za smještajem i nakon nekoliko odbijenica došli smo na nekakvu recepciju gdje je sjedio dječak od nekih 12 godina. Nakon puno mahanja i tipkanja po kalkulatoru došli smo dogovora i pokazao nam je deluxe sobu. Deluxe soba se sastojala od 4 ne bas cista kreveta na oprugama nasred prazne neožbukane sobe s klimom postavljenom ... read more
Wadi Halfa 1
Sudan dozvole

Africa » Sudan » North » Wadi Halfa February 15th 2014

November 22, 2012 Being a dry country, most of the alcohol that we were carrying has been consumed before crossing the border. To be honest, some do have a few good bottles of wine hidden away for Christmas and new year’s and we have no intention of drinking them in Sudan. We’ve arrived in Khartoum and after driving around looking for the right place, we’ve once again stopped a taxi and organised to follow him to the yacht club where we’ll be staying for the few nights. The gates are an issue and as it’s situated on one of the main thoroughfares, traffic is banking up behind us and not overly happy. Soon, police arrive to stop traffic and allow us the space to reverse and reverse again and eventually get through, while we hold up ... read more
Sudanese declarations of love
Kookie Burger Restaurant
An evening with the Sufis

Africa » Sudan » North » Wadi Halfa October 30th 2013

Our ferry from Egypt chugged in to Wadi Halfa in Sudan just before lunch. Wadi Halfa is a dusty hot border town, with not a whole lot going down. Apparently we stayed in the room that Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman used during their Long Way Down trip. The bikes hadn't arrived so we headed into town to kill a little time. A large group of young guys in green khaki came striding past us a one stage, then a few minutes later one guy in police uniform came sprinting past us, with the group in hot pursuit. They caught him, gave him a bit of a beating, and then took him away. We found out later that the police guy had arrested one of the army guys for drinking, and this had obviously backfired on ... read more
Jaap stuck at the hotel in Wadi Halfa
Meeting the mad cyclists in the Nubian Desert
Arriving at the port in Wadi Halfa

Africa » Sudan » North » Khartoum July 12th 2013

Resumo: Sabia que seria difícil, mas não sabia que seria tanto; Estou bem. Desde que escutei da famosa viagem do Egito a Etiópia cruzando o Sudão eu achei uma loucura. Pensava, quem irá cruzar o Sudão?? Escutava de um ou outro backpacker que fez, mas não muitos. Bom, entendo o porquê. Não é muito fácil viajar pelo Sudão. Muita papelada, muito calor, restrições de viajar em alguns lugares, restrições para tirar fotos, poucos falam inglês, sem ATM para estrangeiros, e para agravar a minha situação, mulheres não possuem nem a liberdade de ir ao mercado sozinhas, imaginem viajar pelo mundo!! Vou resumir aqui a minha viagem, pois mesmo ficando apenas 5 dias no Sudão tudo foi bem intenso. Tive momentos de sorte e azar um atrás do outro. Queria rir e queria chorar o tempo todo ... read more
making friends
making friends
The donkey saved me

Africa » Sudan » North » Khartoum July 9th 2013

I once thought that I might lose my life back in my senior year of high school when I had a gun pointed at my head during a robbery. Saturday night was the second time. I was on a Lufthansa Air flight from Frankfurt to Addis Ababa, via Khartoum, Sudan. We made a stop in Khartoum to drop off some passengers, as planned. But about 30 minutes away from our landing in Addis, as I was in the plane bathroom, the captain suddenly came onto the loudspeaker and shouted, "Emergency descent! Emergency descent!" Just like the time I was robbed, I suddenly felt like I was in a dream and everything moved in slow motion. I rushed back to my seat. The crew told us to look at our passenger safety instruction cards and to get ... read more

Africa » Sudan » North » Khartoum August 5th 2012

Back in Sudan again for one year... read more
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Africa » Sudan » North » Khartoum February 22nd 2012

We ended up spending a few more days in Khartoum than planned as there was some Nuban wrestling on Fridays that we wanted to check out. Unfortunately, in the end we didn't manage to see it, despite getting the bus out to the part of the city that it was supposedly on. We thought 2 guys had understood where we wanted to go and would tell us where to get off, but then they go off the bus and no one else could understand where we wanted to go to. It didn't help that this was the day after our one and only big night out in Khartoum. On the Thursday night, which is like their Friday night, we were brought to a Guest House by our couch surfing host. We arrived to find about 4 ... read more
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Africa » Sudan » North » Khartoum February 19th 2012

We had to get up at 6.30 a.m. to get our bus to Khartoum at 7. The bus didn't end up leaving until around 8ish but got bought some tea by the guy in charge as we waited. The coach was another proper one with air conditioning, but again with blaring Sudanese music. The speaker system must be new as music was pumping throughout the bus. We arrived in Khartoum at about 2 p.m. and got in touch with our couchsurfing host, Gareth. We went back to his flat and chilled out for the afternoon after not getting much sleep on the coach. Later, we got in touch with Nathan and Rien who we had met on the ferry to Wadi Halfa and were still in Khartoum. They happened to be staying near us, so we ... read more
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