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Published: August 17th 2008
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The Ethiopian side took a long time, and while the truck is parked lots of people hooting at us and money changers prowl about, we managed to change our last dibdobs to Sudanese money at a back alley somewhere, the guy tried to cheat us but his competition told us and so we got a better rate in the end. Soon as we're done we crossed to Sudan, we need to pay for registration so we walked back to the Ethiopian side to change more money as they have better rates, we queued up to get entry stamps and at the same time we registered, it was cumbersome task as they have to translate into Arabic some informations. After that off we went only to be turned back 30 minutes later by a checkpoint saying we missed the police registration, we went back to the border and registered with the police, needs photo id and thumbprint, no charge, while there we had truck lunch.
As we drove away we noticed the green vegetation from Ethiopia gradually turns to desert and a lot warmer as well, the air is very dry. After hours of driving we suddenly encountered a strong sandstorm,
the locals are used to it already once the wind started blowing they closed their shops and houses, and you can see a wall of sand approaching us from the East and before long enveloped the truck in sand and strong wind, lightning and thunder started as well, it foloowed us for a while, we try to outrun it and stopped hurriedly for a bush camp and set up tents as quick as possible, the winds arrived before everyone get to pitch their tents and we struggled to keep it from blowing away, then rain started, torrentially and we either stayed in the tent or in the truck, the sandy ground turned to mud, so thick you slip and slide and gets stuck in your shoes. The cook group have to cook inside the truck. After dinner off to bed as there was nothing else to do, at this point the campsite is muddy as hell.
The next morning we thought we need to dig the truck out but the sand was firm again so we did not have to labor in the muck, off we go again, arriving in Khartoum just before lunch time, we got lost finding
the Blue Nile sailing club and got stuck in traffic, the people of Sudan especially here in Khartoum are very friendly, we hear shouts of welcome and polite waves from people on the streets. We are liking this country already, it was such a different scenario as from what we imagined it seeing the news on TV. We went round and round as we cant get to a portion of the road next to the Palace, found the camp site and set up tents, it is very hot here dry heat and we stuggled to move, thank goodness there is a juice bar at the camp and we all piled in to buy fresh juices. Went to dinner at the Eskala restaurant along the Nile, good food. Sturggled to sleep as it was very hot, there was a big TV outside showing movies so we stayed as late as possible with the fans going it was a better place to be than the tent.
Woke up next morning cant find my flip flops, the dog in the camp played with it and found each pair in different places. Went to register for photo permit as required here by law
KHARTOUM
BURJ AL FATEH BLDG , most of the group went ahead, we got directions but we ended up getting confused and lost, while walikng people have been politely greeting us, welcoming us to their country, we also got help from people as we asked directions, they do their best, we ended up hopping on someone's pick up truck to get a ride to the Tourism office, we got dropped off there and then we were told it was the wrong office, but a head honcho there helped us out, we asked for directions if we walk and he said it was far and quite hot to walk it so he called the photo permit office and have them send forms there,we sat and wait and while waiting a kind woman offered us some tea, amazing hospitality, took awhile for the forms to arrive but we got sorted out quite quickly, they even photocopied our passports free of charge. profuse thank yous and off we go again. Had lunch at the restaurant next to the camp, delicious grilled chicken. More fruit juices and off to do Cultural stuff starting at the Sudanese national Museum, where they have collections of Nubian civilizations, statues, and artefacts even
Coptic church paintings and frescoes from old churches, it was very hot in the museum the fan was not strong enough, we wilted very quickly as we head to the Ethnographic museum, they have a cool drum instrument shaped like a wildebeest or from the same family. Small museum so took only half an hour to go around then we tried the Museum of History but was closed already when we arrived, they have collections of animals outside like a mini zoo so we had a look, the animals are restricted, not a lot of space and not much shelter from the heat, poorly maintained. Walked back in the sweltering heat to the camp site, if anything I can say bad about Sudan is the taxi drivers, they try to ask more fare than necessary as everywhere else in the world, and most of the time they dont speak English so we struggle to explain our destinations. Went to dinner at Debonair's near the airport, and Spuris also in the same building, lots of UN vehicles. we noticed.
Next day is holiday lots of places not opened we decided to head to the Omdurman bazzar, went past the Nile
confluence, the water is murky brown so not really a good time of the year to see the White and the Blue Nile merge, the current quite strong as well. Bought souvenirs at the bazaar, good prices, saw some Chinese looking people buying some animal skins and what nots, they close the door every time they go to a shop maybe dealing with illegal exports of animal parts? who knows....
Went to dinner at Waves restaurant for our last night with Jack and Chris, then stopped by Spurs and we had photos with the waiters and the manager.
Sad goodbyes to Jand Chris as we head out of Khartoum to head north.....
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Zan
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ferry crossing.....
Hi Gil....you are coming the opposite direction that Joe and Stormi will be going.....she has been advised to get a room on the ferry that will cross the lake as it sometimes takes three days...this from a driver for Dragoman.......will you be crossing the lake to get into Egypt? I am assuming so ...thought you would like to check it out.