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Published: August 14th 2010
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(M&N) It is called “the beautiful game”... and never more so in its history has it lived up to its name with such splendour. Our beautiful land and its beautiful people put Africa on the world stage for the first time with such resounding success. When the trophy was finally lifted, it wasn’t only the Spanish who were celebrating - it was also every South African at having put on such a great show of our spectacular country and the richness of our culture. As the last pieces of ticker tape settled on the turf of Soccer City and the show was finally over, the month-long party subsided and became a time of reflection.
One realises that it is not only called “the beautiful game” because of what happens on the pitch. What makes the game truly beautiful is the fulfilment it gives to so many millions of people around the world, most of whom have little more to enrich their lives. Long after the nations of Brazil, Argentina, Ghana an others have recovered from their heartbreak, the undeniably positive energy that the world cup has brought to South Africa will live on for many a year to come. The
image of the frail but beaming Nelson Mandela being driven onto the pitch at the final will live with me for ages. How proud he must be. Reminscent of the 1995 Rugby World Cup, this was without a doubt a defining time in South Africa’s modern history. This was a nation united without inhibition and with a common purpose, yet on a far grander scale, filling the streets arm-in-arm with boundless colour and spirit.
The memories that will linger longest for me are not the games or the overflowing bars, but the hoardes of South Africans who lined the streets of the fan walks - the koon bands, singers, dancers, drummers, puppeteers, street performers and vuvuzela blowers from every walk of life who put on such an amazing show - the vast majority of whom would not even have attended a single game. South Africa put on a show that only South Africa could. And this sentiment was echoed by every one of the multitude of visitors we met in the bars and out on the streets, who could not stop gushing about how great an event this was. Take a bow, South Africa, and be deservedly proud.
Hitting the wrong side of 30...
Claire, Lauren, Joanne and the birthday girl We landed in Cape Town on 4th June and the sight of sunlit Table Mountain shook off any post Seychelles blues in a nano-second. The first week we spent catching up with friends and family - there’s no place like the luxury of home after two months of travels - after which the World Cup kicked off in earnest. And amidst the chaos of the opening party and game in Cape Town, there was also the little matter of celebrating Nina’s final coming of age... the big 3-0!! This was done in suitable style starting with breakfast at the Vineyard Hotel on THE most glorious winters day and ending with a bash at the ever so suitable, super-funky Grand Daddy Hotel. So with Nina’s trauma of leaving her 20’s and mine of no longer dating a 20 year-old behind us, we set off for a super-awesome roadtrip up the east coast.
On our initial journey to Port Elizabeth we stayed in the Wilderness, Plettenberg Bay and Jeffrey’s Bay - home to Supertubes, the best right wave in the world, where we spent a few hours soaking up the sun and watching amazing surfing. As fate would have it we
bumped into Tomas, the crazy Californian from our Seychelles trip, whose favourite drink is Tequila. I’m sure we had an awesome night and there’s no photographic evidence to prove otherwise... Thankfully it’s a short drive from J-Bay to sunny Port Elizabeth where we hooked up with Captain Kemble and Briggie for a week of chaos. There, much to Nina’s dismay, we went to the only game that Germany actually lost (Serbia 1 - Germany 0) and afterwards very quickly descended on a bar to drown our sorrows... To be honest our whole week in PE was pretty much a blur, thanks to the tequila girls who frequented most of the bars and an impromptu bachelor party followed by our own rendition of ‘The Hangover’ to pick up the pieces. But lots of friends made along the way, and taking in all that PE had to offer, we set off for Chintsa, a stunning little spot at the beginning of the Wild Coast.
Contentious I know, but Cintsa is without a doubt our favourite place in South Africa. Think lagoon, a completely uninhabited sanddune-lined beach stretching endlessley to the horizon, and the wild sea. It really is breathtaking... so we
spent three glorious days there at the coolest backpackers on earth called Buccaneers. Anyone travelling through South Africa simply must go there. Good accommodation, awesome people and some great activities (if they remember to book you in - grrr) such as horseriding on the beach, pool tournaments and kayak races accompanied by free wine. And you’ve never in your life had breakfast with a view like that. Ever.
So feeling slightly depressed that we had to leave, we set off for Coffee Bay in the Transkei - another 240 km up the coast and our final destination. After driving for two hours and just before the turn off from the national road, we called the backpackers who promptly told us it would take another 3 hours to drive the last 80 km. Being the Transkei, potholes and livestock on the road are just another part of everyday life, and throw in some much needed roadworks and voilà. So given our tight timeframe, Coffee Bay was grudgingly left for another day and we started back for CT. It looks great in the brochure though so for anyone with a good car and lots of time and patience, give it a
crack and please send us some photos!
The trip back was pretty uneventful, bar staying in the creepiest “backpackers” in the world (we had both extremes) in Port Alfred, which was so forgettable I’ve forgotten its name (but being the only backpackers in P.A. easily avoided). It was actually a rather run down flat, occupied by a family (relatives/lovers, whatever they were) including a very strange looking baby and two rabid, growling dogs - one of the guys permamently slept on the couch in the “reception” with them - think the Addams Family meets Deliverance. It’s slightly disconcerting trying to fall asleep when you expect your door to fly open at any second and a crazed axe-yielding maniac to come charging at you. But wake up intact we did, and after politely declining breakfast we headed for the beach as fast as possible. But after strolling along the spectacular deserted sand dune-lined beach for a couple of hours, Hickville was quickly forgotten and we were back in high spirits. On we went to Cape St Francis and Krom river where we spent an awesome night at the Scotts’ place, before finally heading back to CT.
A word of
Surf's up, Muizenburg in Cape Town
Recognise this super hot surfer chick?! advice - anyone heading to South Africa, PLEASE do a trip up the east coast. It is such an incredibly beautiful part of the world, so diverse and so unique. We’d do it again tomorrow in a heartbeat. Only trouble is we’re in Greece. Hard life, eh?!
The rest of our stay in CT was great - lots more World Cup action and loads of great time with the folks (thanks again guys for everything) and with Claire - whose big 3-0 we also thankfully managed to celebrate with her before she left for Natal - and other family and friends. A few more highlights included hiking Table Mountain (Nina can now truly call herself a Capetonian), Nina's virgin surf session at Muizenburg beach (adding hot surfer chick to her list of fabulous attributes), Whale watching in Hermanus (not every day you see a Southern Right Wale breaching a wave...), wine tasting in Stellenbosch (again a Tietzel first), Lauren's awesome 30th birthday bash at Mzoli's (the new Cape Town hotspot and the new South Africa at it's finest!) and taking in some of Cape Town's best beaches....
The World Cup was one thing, but our six weeks in
Partying it up at Mzoli's
Thanks Lauren for an awesome 30th birthday bash! SA also made me remember just how spectacular this country is. We had an absolute blast, but when it was all over we were happy to be heading off for new adventures. Next stop Munich and Greece before finally getting back onto the unbeaten track in South America - can’t wait!
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Olivia
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Buccaneers Rocks
So glad we spnt some time with you guys in CT and agree that Buccaneers in Chintsa is one of the coolest places on earth. Surely not influenced by all the free wine!