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Published: June 10th 2022
Our first full day in South Africa, we embarked in a tour of the Cape Peninsula, driving along the coast along mountains, coves, and beaches to Cape point at the southwestern tip of the Cape Peninsula.
After a stop in Clifton to see the spectacular bay view, we followed Victoria Road in the direction of Camps Bay which provides a glimpse of the exclusive Llandudno suburb and beach and around the next corner views of Lion's Head and the 12 Apostles. Victoria Road passes the Promenade of Camps Bay, with it's world renowned restaurants and rooftop bars like Chinchilla.
We continued our drive towards Cape Point, with another panoramic stop at the fishing village of Hout Bay.
Chapman's Peak Drive, Chappies to the locals, is a 9-mile marvel of engineering route with 114 twists and bends, carved between 1915 and 1922 by convicts into the seemingly impassable west facing sandstone cliffs. With a sheer drop to the ocean below on one side, and the entire steep mountain wall on the other, it's one of the most scenic and beautiful roads in the world.
During it's first 80 years, however, it was more often closed than open due
Clifton
View of Camps Bay and the 12 Apostles.to the cliffs being prone to rockslides. As a precaution it was closed during bad weather until, in 1999 on a clear and apparently non-dangerous day, a motorist was killed and wild fires caused additional debris that closed the road. It was at that point that engineers worked to install safety measures. One of them, a catch fence steel net, hugs the cliffs and protects the road from smaller slides.
The weather was temperamental, with bouts of heavy rain at times, and always windy, although I was told it was nothing compared to what it could sometimes be, but the drive is dramatic and scenic, with oceanside suburbs eventually giving way to vast ocean views.
The coast features enormous boulders and rough surf, with beautiful coves of sandy, expansive beaches and glorious blue water that nestle upscale neighborhoods like Camps Bay.
The area also boasts full troupes of baboons that plague the citizens of the area, although I found the stories of their antics to be quite funny.
However, it is strictly forbidden to feed them, with the slogan "A fed baboon is a dead baboon." As we were told, because of the nature of the
baboons hierarchy, they would consider somebody that handed over food subservient. It would likely lead that baboon to threaten, or attack, humans that did not submit.
We continued along the coast to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, watching baboons as well as ostrich farms, and eland along the road.
Finally, we arrived at Cape Point and our last stop, the Old Cape Point lighthouse. We parked at the large parking area right by the funicular, so I decided to forego climbing the path for a more comfortable ride in the funicular, and save my energy for the many levels of steps leading to lookouts to get good vantage points of the spectacular landscape surrounding the lighthouse. A fortunate break in the bad weather even provided a clear view of the distant mountains on the other side of False Bay.
Afterwards, we followed the coastline along False Bay to return to Cape Town via Simon's Town, where we stopped for a delicious seafood lunch at a waterfront restaurant. Here, a short walk away, we visited the adorable penguin colony at Boulders Beach started some years ago when a small group of penguins arrived at this cove
and, although penguins usually choose islands, settled there. It has grown now to around 300, or probably more now since we saw several new babies in the colony.
On our way back we came across one of the estimated 500 MSR (Men on the Side of the Road Project) sites around South Africa where everyday thousands of unemployed men wait for work from residents or contractors in the area. Many of these men over the years of casual work have picked up the necessary skills to get work without having the recognized trade papers. MSR guarantees that the men at these sites have are able to earn a wage befitting their skills level. This organization also collects tools for the creation of a tools library the men can obtain cheaply, as well as lobbying for infrastructure for the men who wait for work and other benefits.
We continued with a scenic drive over Muizenberg Mountain to return to Cape Town for a driving tour of Cape Town's City Center, pass famous landmarks such as the Castle of Good Hope built in 1666 by the Dutch East India Company, City Hall, the Company Gardens, and the colorful Malay Quarter.
Also St. George's Cathedral, the Anglican Diocese of Nobel Peace Laureate Archbishop Desmond Tutu.
After a short rest at the hotel, we decided to head to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, not far from our hotel, for dinner. The extensive Waterfront is situated in the oldest working harbor in the country. It offers a variety of attractions and activities that includes helicopter rides, leisure boat cruises, stand-up paddling, live entertainment, Two Oceans Aquarium Cape Wheel and much more. The Mall has over 500 retail stores, and the Promenade has over 80 eateries, whether a quick bite or fine dining. There is also a food market. It is home to 22 historical landmarks.
For our dinner we chose Karibu, an award winning restaurant for both local and seafood categories, and we soon agreed that we had made the right choice. A bottle of wine, two seafood appetizers, and a couple of traditional dishes, a Bobotie for me, and a lamb Bredie for my friend all were delicious.
We were also delightfully surprised by an African group of dancers and singers who showed up and sang and danced.
We intended to explore the area after dinner, but it
Chapman's Peak Road
One of the walls along the road. was raining hard again by the time we left the restaurant, so taking an Uber was the best way to get back to the hotel, and get ready for the next day's tour of the cape winelands, and tastings at three wineries.
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