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We are up at 5:30 am for our first morning game drive. Coffee and rusks (similar to a biscotti) at 6 and in the land rovers shortly thereafter, just as the sun is starting to illuminate the backs of the surrounding hills.
A word about the vehicles used on safari. They are modified land rovers, diesel-powered with separate gears for the front and back wheels. Obviously, they boast massive suspensions and extensive structural reinforcements. Besides the front seat, there are three rows of seats arranged in a staircase arrangement. Each row can accommodate three people. There's also a fold-out seat on the front left hood, where a tracker can sit precariously and survey the surroundings. An essential feature: everything is copiously padded. These babies can climb up a steep cliff, ford a stream, take a licking and keep on ticking.
Our guides Richard and Jo-Jo have a plan in mind for this morning. Jo-Jo spotted some rhinos yesterday, so they have a vague idea of where they are. So we are going to try to track them down.
We're off, bumping wildly over the stony tracks. Yesterday it seemed a crazy way to travel but today we are
used to it. It's quite chilly, especially when we are under way, and everyone is bundled up warmly with blankets.
We spot a number of antelope along the way, including blesbok, impala and waterbuck. They stay at a safe distance from us and bound away if we get too close. The springbok in particular make a dramatic exit, leaping high into the air in a series of astonishing jumps, one after the other.
It's not too long before we run into (literally) some huge black piles of rhino dung. Our trackers pronounce them fresh, so we must be on the right path. They examine the tracks carefully to ascertain the rhinos' direction.
As we continue our journey, the landscape changes every minute as the sun rises higher. A mist rises from the river and spreads out over the low-lying area. Trees and flowers sparkle with dew. Small birds flit down the path as our trucks approach. Bird songs and mysterious noises from other animals fill the air on the occasions when we stop the engines momentarily. The best way to describe it is that it's like being in a movie—but it's real. And suddenly the full orb
of the sun leaps above the mountains, blindingly bright. The land seems to breathe a collective sigh as it begins to dry out and warm up.
Our trackers have found a place near the river where they believe the rhinos wallowed recently but they are worried that they've lost the trail. They decide to go off-road to the top of a rise for better visibility, but it's for naught. We stop on a bridge over the river for a coffee break. Earlier a guest asked whether there would be any bathrooms. Our guides told us they have two kinds: lava-trees and toilet-trees; you take your pick. So we do.
We resume our search for rhinos on the other side of the river. We then spot a giraffe, no two, no three, and then even more. They are very close to us, not afraid but clearly finding our presence annoying. Jo-Jo explains that you can tell males from females by whether the horns have been worn down and whether there are bumps on the head. Both of these indicate males, who fight by bashing their heads into each other.
We are all enthralled by the tower of giraffes,
Giraffe and her calf
Songimvelo Game Reserve, SAbut suddenly Jo-Jo spies a rhino in the far distance. Giraffes are forgotten as we speed off. A combination of on-road and off-road driving brings us as close as we dare. There are three rhinos, all female. This is the White Rhino, which is less aggressive than its cousin the Black Rhino. Nevertheless, we need to keep a prudent distance. At first, one of the rhinos seems stressed by our presence, shaking her head, snorting and even doing little hops. With our engines off, however, she calms down and we can silently enjoy the spectacle of this magnificent beast in the wild.
The rhinos' horns have been sawn off. This was done by the rangers to protect the rhinos from poachers, as they are of no value to poachers without their horns.
The White Rhino is so named, not because it is white (it is black), but because its mouth is wide. "Wide" has been corrupted to "white."
Our quest fulfilled and our tummies beginning to rumble, we start the homeward trek. We see several more giraffes along the way, including a group of five loping by in a line in the distance.
Richard, the driver
We find our rhinos!
Songimvelo Game Reserve, SA in the lead car, calls a stop because he needs to fertitilize a tree. To our astonishment, he comes bounding back in a hurry, having heard a hippo close by. (As you may know, hippos are one of the most dangerous wild animals in Africa.) He and Jo-Jo carefully explore the surroundings to determine whether it's safe for us to come. The verdict is yes, so those willing set out in single file through the bush towards the nearby river as quietly as we are able. And yes, there through the trees we can see a hippo in the river, the entire upper part of its body exposed. It is purple brown and gorgeous, but it is aware of our presence as its snorting grows louder. Without warning, it submerges with barely a ripple. Richard tiptoes toward the river to assess the situation, then realizes that the hippo has reached our bank. Quick, everyone back to the trucks on the double! We hear a couple of loud snorts that are alarmingly close now. We regain our vehicles and take off as fast as we can. Richard never had time to do his business, but if nature hadn't called him, we
would not have had the bonus surprise ending to our expedition. This outing had a great plot: a quest that encountered setbacks but that was ultimately successful, plus a surprise development right at the end.
Lunch at the resort then a free afternoon. For me, of course, a chance to catch up on the accursed blog, because Humala has a working albeit slow Internet connection at the main lodge.
A word about our lodgings. They are very interesting cottages. There is a round, poured concrete part sitting on solid ground that serves at the bathroom. A door leads to an outdoor shower. The concrete form is attached to a large wooden a-frame and a suspended wooden platform floor that together form the main living area of the cottage. The roof is a traditional thatched roof, where long reeds of a grass-like plant are woven together, and the top sprayed with resin for waterproofing. The walls are canvas, pulled taut down the walls, with zippered windows. So the truth is that we are basically living in a luxurious tent. There is also a wooden deck at the front door where one can sit. We are fortunate to have a
cottage right down by the river so that the sound of gently flowing water sings us to sleep each night.
Late afternoon walk led by Richard. We examine several massive termite mounds, ruddy red like the soil. The termites excavate huge amounts of material to construct elaborate underground dwellings. They gather plant material in order to cultivate a special fungus underground, which is their principal food source. The termites themselves are not that large, and are almost transparent.
We meet our friend Garkey the giraffe suddenly. For such a tall creature, he is well camouflaged. He is an older male in his twilight years and has learned not to be afraid of humans. He regards us amiably enough as we marvel at standing this close to a giraffe in the wild.
Richard show us what locals call the toilet-paper tree. It has soft fronds that are traditionally used for...well, you know. However, this being Africa, there is another tree almost identical to this one with hidden thorns on the stems. So, should you ever be lost in the African savannah, make sure you choose wisely.
We return to home base after a walk of two hours.
We all be dancing
Humala, Songimvelo Game Reserve, SA There's a braai tonight, held outside in a large gazebo-like structure called a boma. Before we eat we are entertained by a local troupe of young Swazis dancing and singing traditional music. Their kicks are impressively high, each accompanied by a crack on the drums. Of course, by the end, everyone is up and dancing.
The food is absolutely great tonight, the best braai so far. Washed down by local pinotage, we have a great time. But we have to wrap up fairly early, because we have another sunrise drive scheduled for tomorrow morning.
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