Rhino crashes into cruiser

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"A white rhino butted head first into a land cruiser today," our on-site reporter told us. "The short-sighted male believed the vehicle was a rival blocking him from his two lady friends, so tried to tip it over by hooking his horn underneath the bonnet. The land cruiser remained upright, and the rhino moved around it and ambled peacefully away. Neither animal nor people were hurt."

It was exciting, though.

This was our first full day at Naledi Bushcamp in Balule Nature Reserve. For geography and logistics buffs, Balule is on the outer western edge of Greater Kruger National Park. The advantages of being in a nature reserve rather than in the national park proper are:


• fewer jeeps on the trails (5 at the most rather than 30 or more)
• fewer people: only those staying in the reserve's lodges are allowed on safari in Balule, although the animals can move freely between national park and reserve
• being able to go off road (in Kruger you must stay on the trails)
• less likelihood of poaching (the reserve is well-patrolled)
• the lodges are generally smaller and cosier than in the national park (Naledi only has 4 rooms, though they are planning to build more)
• the beauty of the surroundings - Balule has many trees and hills meaning lovely views, especially at sunset. During the wet season the abundance of greenery may impede one's views of wildlife but in the dry many trees and shrubs lose their leaves and the grasses are amber, meaning golds and browns are predominant.



I had hardly slept the night before, I was so hyped up over what we may see. Up at 5, I moved quietly round our room trying not to wake Matt, getting my camera ready and ensuring I had enough battery power. By the time the knock came at 5.30, I was dressed.

We set off on our early morning safari at 6 a.m. after gulping down some strong coffee, with our trusty guide, Eric, and our tracker, Prem. There were only four of us: Matt and I and the Canadian couple. The Ukranian group, who had actually been really nice (I was a bit hard on that poor girl in my last blog), had left, not, I am quick to add, because of me.

In the yellow light of early morning, we saw gentle animals: impala, warthogs, kudu, bushbuck, springbok, zebra. Then we walked down to the edge of the river and watched hippos wallowing. They were like grey rocks with nostrils and little eyes. Eric told us they would not get out of the river unless they were provoked, so we were safe.

Occasionally, a couple of young hippos snapped at one another in play but generally they were immobile. I never thought I would use the word, "sweet", to describe hippos but that is what they were.

Back in the land cruiser, we saw two more of the Big 5: African buffalo and elephants. Both types of animal were in bachelor herds. The buffalo were wary but the elephants were quite friendly - they could afford to be, they were so massive with huge tusks - and came near the land cruiser to get a better look at us.

After breakfast, Matt and I went on a walk with Prem. It was dry and dusty but the trees were beautiful, many of them being in flower. Prem told us about the magical properties of the marula tree, the durability of the leadwood, and the medicinal properties of plants. He also described his life as a child at Sabie Sands Nature Reserve, his father teaching him about the environment and passing on his love of animals. Although an excellent tracker, Prem is now training to be a guide. He will be a good one.

I had a swim in the pool, which was cool and refreshing, had lunch in the dining room with Matt, then had a quiet time sitting on the balcony of our room watching vervet monkeys and squirrels scurry around, being far more active than I was. Then I waddled to the land cruiser for the afternoon safari.

Giraffes crossed the road in front of us while zebras tried to hide from us. Then we watched the male white rhino and two females grazing, along with people in two other vehicles.

The rhinos fed peacefully, until the females decided to move on and the male made his macho move. I was glad he did not head-butt our vehicle.

I have made a short video for you (15 seconds) of these lovely animals, though sadly the Rambo incident was not recorded. See below.

Sunset was admired from another stunning viewpoint. Eric taught us an easy song about missing friends from far off countries, and we all danced around hamming it up.

As night fell, we tried to find a leopard. Instead, Prem illumated with his torch an exquisite animal sitting on a fallen log. It looked like a cat with big ears, a spotted body and striped tail. Eric told us it was a genet. This animal is more related to the mongoose family than the feline.

The genet stretched and moved languidly along the log, balancing like a ballet dancer. "He's just woken up and is working out where to do his shopping," said Eric.

Magic.

As if we had not had enough excitement for one day, we then caught a brief glimpse of a leopard who was spotlighted perfectly for an instant, muscles rippling beneath his perfect body, before disappearing into the darkness.

We had seen all the Big 5, on only our second day.

The Canadians were on their honeymoon so the staff at Naledi had arranged for them to have a private dinner. Matt and I were afforded the same privilege. A table had been set up for us on the verandah by the swimming pool. Flambeaux circled the deck, frogs serenaded us, and we ate oxtail with veg followed by lemon tart, washed down with the subtle fruit flavours of a divine Pinotage. I can hardly fathom anything more romantic. Matt and I were in heaven.

It only remained for us to stagger off to bed, and look forward to doing it all again tomorrow.

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Photos

whiterhinomf2
White rhino. Photo: Matt Feierabend

hippodr
Mellow hippos: aren't they sweet?

ericandprem
Our lovely tracker Prem (left) and guide Eric (right)

giraffedr
Giraffe on the move

genetmf
The exquisite genet. Photo: Matt Feierabend.

balulesunsetdr
Sunset over the Drakensburg Ranges

buffalodr3
Male buffalo shows attitude