Astounding Southern Africa - Hluhluwe Wednesday 2015 February 25


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Published: April 17th 2016
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1:45 p.m. We are in an interval between our dawn safari and our dusk safari in Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park. Awakened at 5:15 a.m., we left a little after dawn in the cool of a cloudy day following a bit of rain overnight – perfect for game spotting and photo taking because the light was soft. Unfortunately for residents, the rains have been light this rainy season, which is expected to lead to water shortages and animal stress in a few months.

Our guide, Karl, was a hectic driver and animal enthusiast. He was as excited as we were when he spotted animals, particularly rhinos and elephants. He was good at stopping for birds. His directions would usually consist of “There!”, and he would only say, “ten o’clock past the jeep”, if pressed. We relied on each other to help by pointing to a marker tree or bush. There were almost no visible rocks; the vegetation is lush right now.

Unlike in Kruger Park, here we saw herds of animals. Several times we saw herds of rhino, perhaps five to a dozen animals. Two herds were high up in the distant rolling hills where the grass is sweeter. Twice we saw large herds of Cape Buffalo. One herd we met early on, very close to the road; they were all ruminating close to each other, sharing warmth and safety. One herd was fairly distant at a large flat place in the barely flowing river. To our delight, a group of three elephants crossed our view in front of three rhinos. The site was very bushy, so photography was difficult – still thrilling! Best of all, we watched a large herd of elephants drift along towards a water hole invisible to us. They munched as they slowly paced fairly close to the road. Karl moved the safari vehicle several times both to get us close and to avoid blocking their path. Several little ones were in the midst of the herd, and adolescent males wandered ahead and away in an all-too-human pattern of safe risk-taking. Eventually they cross the road just behind us, giving us a splendid view.

On the miniature scale, Karl stopped to show us a pair of dung beetles rolling along. He picked up the ball of dung, with beetles attached, and placed it near the vehicle. The beetles froze! When an inchworm working its way on the road came near to the dung ball, the beetles commenced rolling as fast as possible into the grass.

Late in the ride we saw a troop of baboons scattered in trees and the long grass. Some whooping from a tree was the dominant male disciplining some adolescents, according to Karl.

8:40 p.m. Although our dusk safari was approximately to the same places as this morning, the experience was quite different because our guide, Vernon, was a very different person, and the animals behaved differently. Also, it rained as we approached the Park; the two guides pulled off to the side of the road and gave us rain ponchos just in time. Steady rain on the highway in a vehicle with no sides was mildly painful. Not long into the Park, the rain sto
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pped and did not return until we left three hours later. The fragrance of wet grass with whiffs of wet dung welcomed us to our safari.

Our best animal experience came early. Lots of Vervet Monkeys were lounging around (older ones) or leaping about (younger ones) in a bushy tree by a stream bed. Baby monkeys drew our “ahhhs”, especially a tiny one that could jump
Cutest Vervet Monkey around!Cutest Vervet Monkey around!Cutest Vervet Monkey around!
quite well but still had to gain the strength to land gracefully. Some of the monkeys were moving over to an African Fig Tree across the road, a favourite food. Towards the end of our safari, we passed the tree again, and a troop of baboons had kicked the monkeys out of the tree and was settling in for the night.

We saw a large solitary male rhino – the dominant male patrolling his area. Alerted by Vernon, we clearly saw him spray urine backwards three times to mark his territory. We also saw three rhinos freshly coated in slick mud, perhaps only five minutes out of the wallow. The wallow was at the foot of a big hill across the road. We saw other rhinos, too, all appearing brown instead of grey. The apparent colours of the rhino and elephant are due to the mud in which they have wallowed.

Vernon showed us neon green dung beetles in a rhino midden – lots of fiber mixed in with the poo. The male dung beetle entices the female with the size of his dung ball, made with rhino dung from the midden. She clings to his ball as he rolls
Hluhluwe River in droughtHluhluwe River in droughtHluhluwe River in drought
it into the grasses, and at night they mate. She eats a hole into the ball and places the egg. He fills up the hole. When the beetle hatches, it eats its way out!

We did get out at a viewpoint to enjoy a wonderful green lush valley landscape. Unfortunately, the Hluhluwe River is about a tenth of its former size, because of seven years of drought.

Dinner at the hotel: salads, squash, green beans, traditional beef stew, cake, white wine

">Video of our quiet encounters with the animals


Additional photos below
Photos: 17, Displayed: 17


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Elephants so close!Elephants so close!
Elephants so close!
Bee Eaters decorate the tree.Bee Eaters decorate the tree.
Bee Eaters decorate the tree.
Cape Buffalo herd wateringCape Buffalo herd watering
Cape Buffalo herd watering
Vervet Monkeys looking at usVervet Monkeys looking at us
Vervet Monkeys looking at us
Inch worm safe in the bushInch worm safe in the bush
Inch worm safe in the bush
Green Dung Beetle at home in Rhino dungGreen Dung Beetle at home in Rhino dung
Green Dung Beetle at home in Rhino dung
Rambunctious zebraRambunctious zebra
Rambunctious zebra
Why did the Emerald Spotted Dove cross the road?Why did the Emerald Spotted Dove cross the road?
Why did the Emerald Spotted Dove cross the road?
Zebra looking at us skeptically Zebra looking at us skeptically
Zebra looking at us skeptically
Mother and daughter leave the mud bath.Mother and daughter leave the mud bath.
Mother and daughter leave the mud bath.
Mud is excellent for hindering bugs - reportedly!Mud is excellent for hindering bugs - reportedly!
Mud is excellent for hindering bugs - reportedly!
Rhino at sunsetRhino at sunset
Rhino at sunset


18th April 2016

Wow!
You got some great shots - lovely light and composition. Of course the baby vervet is the cutest, but the enthusiastic zebra is wonderful too. And the rhino at sunset is striking. Nivel done. My only complaint is that I could have lived without knowing how big inchworms can be.
24th April 2016

Wow photos!
Inchworms are cute! Thanks for your good words.

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