South Africa Day 1: Is Joburg Deadly?

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The first of our discovering South Africa series where we pose certain truths·myths that exist out there. The answer:

Not for us. But we have only seen a very small and exclusive part of it. I would say it is generally safe but you just need to be very careful.

We made it safely to the hotel, I am writing at 2:30AM local time as we are both reasonably wide awake, but having missed an entire night's worth of sleep, we are still a bit tired. There is a 7 hour time difference, so this means that when we "wake up" at 6AM this morning, it will be bedtime back home.

First Impressions

The OR Tambo Airport is unusual, relatively new but clearly still African in its disproportionate size and non-sensical design. It's like a big airport warehouse was built and then things were plugged in here and there. Immigration was relatively painless by the time we had gotten there and the agent was a friendly guy. A bit of a zoo in the arrivals area, flying, at least internationally, remains a largely white affair. From the hotel's lounge, despite apartheid's end some almost 3 decades ago, magazine subjects on the black and white divide are still an overriding discussion that appears to still largely be in its infancy. My first task was to get some Rands, and as I said, we had to walk clear across the terminal area to where the bank was, I regret now not withdrawing more because I don't know where I will find my next ATM. We wanted a map also, but turns out that was upstairs in another area . . . like I said, things plugged in willy-nilly.

I think we will be okay driving, but I have to say driving on the right side of the car is the hardest thing. Everyting is reversed except the clutch/gas/brake and the gear positions on the stick shift. However this means I have to shift with my left hand which is awkward, and the turn signal is on the right while the windshield wiper is on the left. Tourists must be a dead giveaway because we constantly have our windshield wipers going on a perfectly sunny day. Getting to Sandton was a bit of a challenge as many other bloggers have stated, signage is pitiful. Our route was not that complex, but determining which direction you want to go on a route is not obvious (is it going East, South, North, West?). So far I have not felt unsafe or uncomfortable, yes, there are the guys on the street corners which it is easy to forget about for a minute, but we have been in Sandton after all, I am sure it looks a lot hairier elsewhere.

Sandton, the little we have seen driving down Rivonia Road, is imposing and fancy as most such wealthy commercial districts are in developing countries. What is striking, especially as you drive down the street, or look out the window of our hotel, is that the streets and sidewalks are completely empty. Certainly Rivonia Road was not designed as a pedestrian environment, but that in itself is unusual I feel. Maybe the heart of Sandton is a little different. We will be back in four days and will have a whole day to explore. I am tempted to walk the three blocks to that area because it does not look unsafe out there, but as there is absolutely not a soul, I would feel awkward and noticeable as the environment does not wish to accommodate me for a stroll.

Hilton Sandton

The Hilton Hotel is okay, at least the Executive Floor, room is attractive and comfortable, the bed is funny in that it just has a duvet, we last saw that in Austria I think. Of all the Hiltons we have stayed at internationally - Vienna Park, Athens, Budapest, London - this one beats at least London (which was sophisticated but trying too hard), but final judgment shall be rendered at breakfast time in the lounge. The cocktail hours of the Lounge were a bit sad, the staff is friendly but a little bumbling and the snack selections they had were a bit sad and old looking, different from the elaborate spreads we saw in Vienna and Budapest - so we will NOT be having "dinner" in the lounge. Maybe that is their intent. I did have my first Castle beer there, it was not bad, a little bit of an after taste but I don't know if that was the glass that it was served in or the beer itself.

The hotel itself, like all other hotels and offices in the area, are more like compounds. This was not surprising based on what I had heard, but as much as it is designed to keep the street out of the hotel, I feel it keeps us out of the street more. It is what makes my walking out of this place even more foreboding - I have to cross two gates, including a tire puncture system. I don't even think there is a sidewalk to the road.


Back to bed, I have to drive 400 miles tomorrow!

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Photos

View from our Window
Sandton is an insular mecca for whites and those who do business with whites. Similar really to any business district you would see in any developing country, so particular judgement on South Africa would not be fair in this case.

Our Room
At the Hilton Sandton. The hotel is fine, the service is absolutely horrible. But there's free wine, so we will be okay.