Day 13: The Highs and Lows of Travelling (Lesotho to the Karoo)

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Whilst I've really enjoyed the mountains, the others found it a little cold. Huddled in their coats at 06h15 going to the washing facilities, I returned from those same facilities with just a towel over my shoulders (but wearing trousers!).

Breakfast was quick with hot coffee, bread and a malaria tablet and, with little to pack, we were away in the cool morning air by 07h00.

The early morning views from the road to the top of the pass were spectacular. Golden sun shone on the golden grass whilst autumnal colours began to get a hold on the poplars dotting the high valley floor. Mist lay in little dips in a vain attempt to hide from the sun.

Heading to Van Rooyens Gate, we joined a short queue of people wishing to exit Lesotho and a longer queue wishing to enter South Africa. With a smile and some idle chat, two more stamps went into the passport and we resumed our downwards journey from the mountains to the Karoo.

All the time, the temperature was rising but the scenery never changed. Mile after mile of savannah with the occasional dorp rising like islands from a sea of grass. Ostrich wandered across the landscape whilst sheep, noses down, valiantly attempted to eat all the grass in sight. This is definitely Lou Grade country; I was almost expecting the bus to be taken off the road by a gigantic Filmed in PanaVision sign that swept in from the horizon!

Towards lunchtime, we arrived in Cradock and pulled into our first hotel since leaving Jo'burg. 'Hotel' is probably a misnomer as the reception area is a Victorian Manor on the corner of the street, complete with period fittings whilst the rooms are houses along the street!

Amos, the proprietor, rushed out to meet us. He's an enormous man with an enormous smile, a big personality and a powerful handshake. His big white teeth shone from his round black face as he greeted us and led us into the reception. He gave us some fresh lemonade and allocated us our rooms.

Walking down the street in the hot sun, we came to 40 Something, my accommodation for the night. I even had my own transport! Opening the outer door, Amos proudly showed me my front room, beautifully decorated in period style, complete with radio and gramophone. Walking through, he pointed me to the bedroom with a big brass bed dominating the room. Trailing behind, mouth open, I followed him into the kitchen, with tea and biscuits laid out and table set. After 10 days camping, this was sheer delight.

That evening, Amos cooked us a splendid Karoo meal of lamb, chicken and Kudu, which we washed down with several bottles of absolutely splendid red wine. This is certainly one of the hotel experiences I will never forget.

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