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Published: October 14th 2009
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11 -12 Oct-
In Clarens , we had a great breakfast with a family nathan befriended while I was in the store.. they were from Durban, taking holiday in Clarens..as apparently so does Brad Pitt.. They covered the coffee and breakfast and assured us that Lesotho was a not to miss marvel.. they took us to the main road.. where we caught a lift to the border of Lesotho..then after crossing customs, we caught a lift to Butha Buthe.. incredibly lucky really...
Lesotho seemed a bit dreary at first, as it is rainy season-- but the mountains are amazing and they seem to suck you in, the swirling mist and clouds around the peaks are grand-- the hostel that Lonely Planet recommends was actually quite a bit further than what they said-- we hiked for about 2 hours up a mountain, covered in mud, given guidance by a young Sotho kid-- we finally made it up top-- the hostel was at once a great, exciting place apparently- but the original owner passed away at 98 and the wife seems sad and apathetic, understandably.. no electricity was fine by me, but the water was yellow and brown.. haha.. oh well..
we boiled it and the coffee masked the colour..the children were a delight and I had tons of fun.. the next day we left and headed towards Mokhotlong-- the ride was intense -- the swirling snake like roads, pulling turns through the various shifts in the gorgeous giant mountains of Lesotho-- my back was killing me by the end.. haha.. then the storm hit.. rain, wind.. and then finally snow-- the taxi, holding 17 people, could barely make it up hills- a few times we had to get out in the weather and walk so the taxi could make it... it was a trip.. we made it to Mokhotlong- stayed the night at community project called GROW.. my camcorder STOPPED working. no reason..it just wont turn on. I am so sad. I cant even think about it right now.. I am so upset.. AHHHH!!!!
this place, GROW, promotes HIV education which is great as Lesotho has a 30% HIV positive population.. it is an economically weak country now, as the Chinese pulled out their textile factories- leaving 20,000 Sothos jobless...
13 October---We left GROW in Mokhotlong this morning, after a late sleep.. for me at least..
haha. This guy that works at the location offered us some beans for breakfast. With a little a salt, they were actually a delight. the weather was wonderful compared to yesterday, nice and sunny. I walked around the town and bought a few groceries, met some locals and made some kids laugh. We hitched a ride with the guy that gave us the beans, Ebanazar, to the taxi rank. we hopped on a taxi to Sani Top. the ride was awful Lesotho is amazing and the scenery made it worth it. rolling hills of green bleeding into mountains of brown, snow, and sheep.. the mountain sheep running across torn roads. but the trip..haha.the roads, if you can call them that, were rock and dirt and stone..and just..intense.. the ride was nothing but a total Texas Giant experience times a thousand for 3 hours.. I took a lot of photos that make up for it.. my neck hurts, my back hurts..but the mountains were phenom-oh-nallll. We finally made it to the border. crossing was relatively easy. I must say, the Drakensburg Mountains were more lovely on the South African side..ALTHOUGh Lesotho has plenty to offer. we made it from Sani into
Underberg. Underberg is a friendly little KZN town. it feels good to be back in KZN Again. we have checked into a hotel. it is slightly over my price range but the only choice.. grabbed some eats at the SPAR and now just enjoying a clean room, Black Label and samosas.
14 Oct---- We left Underberg via bus to Kokstad, I would like to have seen Kokstad...but that is not on the agenda..not right now.. into Mthatha, where a a guy dressed in full army fatigues, looking Congolese in my opinion, basically demanded we follow him to the proper spot to catch a taxi to Port sT John.. he was right, I bought him a drink at the rank and we were off..the ride was relatively smooth..although I had to sit on a mid bench between seats..this little baby decided to bite my finger as hard as possible.. eish!! now we are in Port St Johns.
it is amazing. honestly probably the most beautiful area I have ever seen. It is jungle, brush and ocean.. the beach is amazing and rolling waves have taken me hostage-- the air is a mixture of fires in the distance and salt water
from the Indian Ocean , beachside spot to stay in-- Jungle Monkey backpacker- -- friendly faces , hot fire burning outside, laughter and conversation-- took a ride up to this old airstrip on a mountain, high high high up- so cold- yet beautiful, the wind was rustling the trees that dangle almost scarily over the cliffs, as did the rocks-- I was stand on some loose
ones apparently-- the jungle greenery lining the mountains is fantastic-- it bleeds into the brush then to the rocky shores..the green is so green-- the waves are fabulous- I saw a whale splash up from the depth of the great Indian Ocean-- watching birds play overhead..We are in Xhosa territory now, so my Zulu does not get me far-- these roads up and down the mountain lined with Xhosa women , strong and proud carrying various food stuffs on their head-- the trees form one shape-- dark green leaves give way to the inner treasures of monkeys calling in the distance-- I am reminded of the monkeys in Pongola four years ago almost that stole my rice-- I got some great photos--now back at the backpackers-- The fire is going strong-- internet time?? we
shall see.. take care..
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sherrie reynolds
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Hey Joshua
I am enjoying your blogs and especially the photos. Cool to be able to go along with you virtually.