The Pros and Cons of Ramadan


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Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Dakar
September 17th 2007
Published: September 17th 2007
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People have been talking about how living in a Muslim country for Ramadan is a "great cultural experience." I'm not quite sure what they were talking about...

First off, the food during Ramadan is definitely not at the height of Senegalese cuisine. Our family breaks the fast around 7 or 7:30pm by eating bread and butter. I haven't been fasting all day, so the thought of eating bread and butter for another meal (it's already breakfast everyday) isn't all that appealing. After the last of the five daily prayers (usually around 8:30pm), we eat dinner. My History of Islam prof told us that often the Senegalese buy cakes and other sorts of good food during the day because they're so hungry, but then the non-fasters in the house get to eat it because those fasting are too tired to stay up and enjoy the food. Well, not so much in my house. Dinner is either one of the four meals we've been eating the whole time or leftovers (and Senegalese food does not reheat well at all). Apparently my family doesn't believe in indulging a little bit after depriving themselves all day....

Other down sides to Ramadan: I swear the muezzins drag out evening prayers during this holy month. Last night, they did this one particular chant that Michelle and I hate for about thirty minutes. I don't even think it's Arabic...I think that muezzin just likes to sing. Also, many Senegalese are under the impression that since you cannot drink during Ramadan, then you also are not allowed to swallow your own saliva. Therefore, you see people spitting on the streets all the time. It is also more difficult for us to stop by the convenient store on the way home from class to buy yogurt or ice cream because class ends about 45 minutes before the fast is broken, so everybody in our neighborhood is waiting in line to buy food for the evening.

On the plus side of Ramadan, no one who is fasting wants to venture out and have fun during the heat of the day. This means that we toubabs have many places virtually all to ourselves (along with some of the Christian Senegalese). We went to Plage N'Gor yesterday, which is a gorgeous beach north of the city of Dakar. We decided that we were sick of getting ripped off by taxi drivers (there are no meters here...you have to bargain with the driver in Wolof to get a price before getting in), so we braved a Ndiaga Ndiaye (a white minibus that serves as public transportation). The ride there was uneventful (which is rare here) and we were dropped off in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere, but the appranti (driver's assistant) promised us that this was the end of the line and also the stop for N'Gor beach. We asked a woman for directions and went straight ahead like she said, and we walked straight into the heart of Village N'Gor. It is so sad that such a beautiful beach is right by a poor village, complete with a field of garbage, narrow dirt alleyways, and drab, ramshackle concrete buildings. We had to ask for directions several times because everyone kept telling us "tout droit" (straight ahead)...but we had to make about six turns.

After an interesting stroll through the village, we happened upon the back entrance to the beach, so we didn't have to pay an entrance fee! We dug out our 500cfa pieces to take the pirogue (big, colorfully painted, wooden canoe) across to Ile de N'Gor. The pirogue was quite full, and the water level was quite close to the edge of the boat, but we made it without sinking. Since most of Dakar is fasting, spending the afternoon at the beach is not a high priority, and we had no problem getting mats on the little, picturesque beach on the island. We swam in the very clear, cool water (and were not harassed by the children!), explored the island, and drank Fantas in the shade of the colorful cafe.

We took the pirogue back to the mainland, found our way back through the village and climbed aboard a car-rapide headed towards our neighborhood. There was a quick game of musical chairs with the drivers, and then our minibus broke down about five minutes into the ride home. Everyone climbed out, and some of the men started to push the bus. Miraculously, the push forward helped the bus move backwards and the driver was able to shift gears once again. The Senegalese started to pile back into the bus, so we figured that was the thing to do. After some more changes regarding the driver, we got back to Mermoz and had to climb over everyone to get off the bus. I guess that's why the trip only costs 100cfa (about 20 cents).

Tomorrow we're headed to the Malian embassy to (hopefully) get our visas for our fall break trip. We have a guide all lined up, and he's so enthusiastic to be taking seven American students through Dogon country. Now I just have to figure out how to take a week's worth of supplies in one backpack...


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17th September 2007

Sounds like the perfect time to hit the beach! Not to mention, you can tell people what it's like to being in a predominantly Muslim country during Ramadan! That's pretty awesome. Also, so jealous for the Fanta.
18th September 2007

fantas
Kate, What is a Fantas?
19th September 2007

Thank you Kate for your reports. I´m leaving for Dakar next week and are very intrested to hear everything about how it is during the Ramadan!!!

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