Blogs from Province du Nord, Rwanda, Africa - page 4

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Kudos to Rwanda Air for their inflight food and beverage service. A happy Heather got full meals on both our flights with them. Shame shame Air Canada. En route from Kili to Kigali we flew over the massive Lake Victoria. For the majority of a two hour flight we seemed to be above the lake. As we came in to land in Kigali we noticed a lot of shiny squares. A little more descending and we realized it was all of the aluminium roofs on the houses. We landed and got through customs with no issues and met our guide Hamadi. He gave us a city tour of Kigali, highlighting all of the new building that’s happening - buildings and roads. A huge portion of the city is either new or still being built, a lot ... read more
Rwanda countryside
mother and baby
You want to do what?


Our friend Francoise invited us to her daughter’s traditional Rwandese wedding in Kigali. We attended with another couple from the Embassy that also knows Francoise. The wedding was located in a different area of Kigali, and we arrived 45 minutes late due to being lost. However, the wedding began two hours late, so we were actually early. The first part of the wedding was the dowry negotiation, and the seating was divided into two sections (one for the bride’s guests and one for the groom’s) that faced each other. In between the seating for guests, there were couches covered in cowhide skins and standing grass panels and baskets. All at once, the groom’s party entered the yard and warm sodas and beer were served to all guests. An hour long negotiation ensued between the two male ... read more


I knew I had booked into the cheapest place in town in Musanze as I was the only Muzungu in the place and the rest of the occupants were tour guides! I had a day to kill in Musanze so I updated my blogs and arranged a lift to the Gorillas with Amahoro tours, fortunately I was able to join a group which meant I spent US$15 instead of $80. The next day I was up bright and early 05:30 to be ready for my pick up at 06:00, the LP said we had to get there for 07:00 otherwise you would lose your place and waste US$500 - this turned out to be rubbish as the rangers were still hanging about at 08:00. By 06:30 I had been waiting at the guest house since 06:00 ... read more
My close up meeting
Charles - The Silverback
My David Attenborough pose


I'm not sure there are words enough to describe just how absolutely mind-blowingly amazing an experience it was to see Mountain Gorillas in the wild last week. Even now thinking about it my chest is tightening as I remember how close I got to these magnificent creatures that really do look like humans dressed up in hairy suits. We visited the Hirwa group in Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda. Hirwa is the Silverback and his name means Lucky in the local language. It is a relatively new group, formed just a few years ago when this hotty of a gorilla stole himself a harem of lovely gorilla ladies and made them all pregnant within 2 years. The group has now got 12 members including 5 babies, each of which are incredibly fluffy, playful and adorable. ... read more
Our trekking group
Gorilla!
Eating eucalyptus bark

Africa » Rwanda » Province du Nord January 12th 2010

NOTE: For those of you who received an email form of this, I called this "Day 1" since this was the first FULL DAY in Rwanda. But from the perspective of the whole trip, this was the 4th day I had been traveling I am writing to you from a dark church in Gisenyi, Rwanda, where there is a satellite for Internet and evidently just enough electricity to power that and one 4-ft fluorescent bulb that is humming and off more than it is on. As I wrote in the blog dated 1/11/10, it took 4 hr 15 minutes longer to get here than it was supposed to. That means 44 hours of traveling time, plus the 10 hour time difference. I had dinner with Pastor Simon and family, and then we got a Rwandan sim ... read more

Africa » Rwanda » Province du Nord November 23rd 2009

Marine Ball: We arrived a fashionable hour late, missing the cocktail hour, but in time for the Marines’ presentation. For their birthday celebration, they had a video about people dying in combat and then the most somber cake cutting ever (or, the ceremony could have been about honor, tradition, and sacrifice). Next came a huge buffet and continuously full wine glasses. On Saturday, we met up with two other couples and what would turn out to be our nemesis (more about this later). Then, we headed out to the tea plantation in Kinihira, the capitol of the northern province. Upon arrival, we headed down the hillside for a hike through tea fields and a small village. On our way through the village, we stopped in a tiny store and someone bought vanilla wafers. We then had ... read more
Drive to the Tea Factory
Looking towards the Volcanoe National Park
Guest House


So, my Grand Gorilla Adventure turned out to be pretty much a bust! It was 10 minutes of “Gorillas in the Mist” followed by 30 minutes of “Gorillas in the Torrential Downpour”. I didn’t get many good photos at all and not a single photo of me with a gorilla in the background. The more evolved, philosophical, Buddish side of me says “that’s the way it goes”, “who can predict nature?”, “at least I saw 10 good minutes of Rwandan mountain gorillas which is more than most people ever get”. The other 70% of me (it’s a tight contest for control on most days and today it's fairly lopsided) says “what the &^%*#? I paid $500 @%*!&ing dollars for a gorilla permit, got 10 good minutes, then got soaking wet and muddy!” Let me start from ... read more
Scenery on the way to the park boundary wall
Scenery on the way to the park boundary wall
Sabyino Volcano


I saw gorillas today. As close to me, from my seat at the bar, as the barman is now, with the silverback about as far away as the TV on the other side of the bar. And they were the most unfazed wildlife I’ve ever encountered, ignoring us even when the guides spoke in low voices. The youngster nearest me watched me change the battery in my camera at one point, but that was one of the very few times I saw any indication that they were even aware of our presence. But I get ahead of myself. I knew three things about tourists tracking eastern mountain gorillas before I arrived in East Africa in the wee sma’ hours last Monday morning. You can do it in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC (assuming the latter isn’t ... read more
first sight of the gorillas
some of the Kwitonda group
totally unperturbed by our presence


Today we enter Rwanda, a country filled with excitement because they represent the home of the gorillas for us, but a place also filled with distant recollections of the Rwandan genocide which happened only 15 years ago. Driving into the country, the scenery changes dramatically, the low-lying plains of Uganda replaced with narrow valleys and steep hillsides - all utilised for agriculture. Rarely have I seen cultivated land so high up... the land is filled with tea plantations and other food crops, and the locals toiling in the fields stop their work and watch us as we pass. Our first stop is the capital city, Kigale, which occupies a commanding position on a hill amid a series of dramatic valleys. We go to the genocide museum, established in the aftermath of the violence to fuel reconcilliation ... read more
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Africa » Rwanda » Province du Nord June 14th 2009

Left Ruhengeri this morning to make a few stops in the area around Kinigi, the town closest to the Verungas, on the road to the DRC. On our way out we saw two trucks of soldiers headed to the border. The Imababazi group from yesterday had seen a convoy of seven trucks full of UN soldiers also headed to the border. Hmm. We stopped at a Batwa settlement a couple miles outside Kinigi. The Twa are a race of pygmies that live in Rwandas forests. They make up about 2% of the population. We watched them perform a dance, and once again someof us joined in. After that we headed down to AIDP (Amahoro Intergrated Development Program), the "One" organization from the common basket program. We were there to drop off the $1,500 in donations from ... read more




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