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Published: February 7th 2021
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We received our appointment for the Covid test in Windhoek. Also in Namibia the test centers are very busy, because the cases are on the rise. But far less than in Europe. The freedom we enjoyed here will soon come to an end. Due to timing of the test we were forced to leave Sossusvlei one day earlier. What a shame. It is impossible to time properly this 380km, 5h ride, over gravel, at times quite bumpy roads. And without the test results we can not leave the country.
Again stopping in Solitaire for a coffee and chat, we continued D1275 over the Spreetshoogte Pass. A challenging gravel mountain pass even for an experienced Alpine road driver, with steep turns and serpentines, narrow, with no side rails protecting the car from sliding into the steep valley. We had two options after our successful transition of the Spreetshoogte Pass. An interesting road, over rough terrain and again steep mountain roads, or a boring one, following pastures and hilly landscape, still being a gravel road of course. Dark clouds awaited us in the mountains and the weather forecast announced a heavy tropical front moving into the greater Windhoek area. Weather in Namibia
can be quite vicious, we have seen that already. Being alone on a steep mountain terrain with heavy downpours and risk of flooded roads and landslides was too unpredictable. So Nenad, to the joy of Nui, had to settle for the boring option. Sadly we were witness to what can happen if drivers are not careful in the coexistence with wild animals. A dead Zebra with no signs of injury by a predator, was lying dead along the roadside in the dust. Probably hit by a larger vehicle, a truck or so. This is one of the most serious traffic offences in the country and fines go into the tens of thousands (USD) depending on the animal killed. Fortunately in the 2'500km we did in Namibia, this was the only such example we encountered.
Windhoek is a disappointing city. Little to do and little to see. Joe’s beerhouse is the highlight. The meeting place for all tourists and locals especially the ones involved in outdoors activities. That’s where we met Marcel, our camping guide again, for an evening chat. The other place for a get together is the Stellenbosch Italian Restaurant or the Heinitzsburg Hotel, with its fine dining
Spreetshoogte Pass
a gravel challenge !!!
keep off when wet facility, the place where we stayed the first night in Namibia and we will stay again now. Socialising also in Namibia's urban areas is compromised. Curfew is still in place at 9PM as infection numbers are on the rise. Windhoek has many reminders of the German colonial time. 1890 the city was founded by the German Imperial Forces as an army camp to better support the colonialization efforts in the hinterland. However the current African Government, instead looking after its history, is letting it decay. Many white Namibians we met are very unhappy about this. They ensured us however, it is not politically or racially motivated, but just incompetence and a non exiting priority for the Government in preserving historical heritage. They will regret Nenad thought. Windhoek is surrounded by rocky, high mountainous areas, which make land development costly and options limited. Hence the city is spread out and orientation not so easy. In addition the territory is vulnerable to floods. Under the city's surface are many aquifers (underground layer of water-bearing permeable rock) swelling quickly after downpours, forming little rivers and creeks, flowing unchecked and creating quite a mess for traffic and infrastructure. We had plenty of chance to
observe this, because the weather forecast was spot on. During our stay every afternoon and throughout the night torrential rain submerged the city and its surroundings. People told us it is the heaviest monsoon in at least 10 years. At the same time news reached us that Sossusvlei and the Namibian desert got so much rainfall, that all dry river beds turned into wild waterways. Well, we drove out just in time, or would it be better to be submerged in the desert and experience this unique spectacle? The queen of the desert struck again.... The good news was, while waiting for the Covid results, Nenad could have a last go at gravel road driving, this time with water everywhere, roads like rivers and a green appeal of the landscape around, very very seldom to be seen in Namibia.
After nearly 8 weeks on the road we are somehow ready for our base camp in Wil, Switzerland again. The Covid test went extremely speedy and well at the Pathcare Center. We paid USD 30 per person and had the result in 10 hours delivered to our e-mails. Compare that to the CHF 150 per person !!! we paid in
Switzerland, with 48 hours turn around time. We hear snow fall in the valleys in Switzerland is creating havoc on the roads, dangerous avalanche situations in the mountains, but also creating a winter wonderland feeling, not seen in over 30 years. Wow, what a contrast we soon will witness to the Namib from yesterday. Nenad’s parents can not exit their house due to the masses of snow in front of their doorstep. Time to make a rescue mission. SWISS in Johannesburg, we are ready to fly out of Windhoek. You confirmed your scheduled flight for Zurich. Soon we shall be back in Base Camp !!!
As much as we look forward to snow and being with Nenad's parents, we know we shall miss the rocks, bushes and Acadia trees of the savannas with all its animals. We shall also miss the red sand and boulders of the desert with its dry, hot wind. And most of all, we shall miss the freedom we experienced here, unknown in most of today's Europe.
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