Turn left at the Wilderness


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Africa » Namibia » Otjiwarongo
December 31st 2009
Published: December 31st 2009
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I have shown numerous people the decaying remains of a broken signpost with the words "Wilderness Camp" enscribed upon them. A few I have driven a little way along the road it used to mark, but no one to my knowledge has been to the end of that road for years. Once I'd explored every other corner of the farm however, I became determined to see the mysterious campsite for myself.

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Almost a year ago today I tried driving along the poorest condition road on our property in an attempt to reach the abandoned Wilderness Campsite at it's end. I had no idea when I started just how bad the road would get, and the first kilometre and a half definitely gave me a false sense of security, since while narrow and with acacia bushes close-by on every side, the road surface was well defined with a firm surface. That however eventually turned into 400 metres of very soft sand requiring a brief halt while I made a quick shift into low-range 4WD, and was followed by a complete disintegration of the road surface where rains had washed away the surface altogether leaving just loose rocks - a great many loose rocks.

I made it through the sand and the rocks, but was eventually presented with an impassible wall of acacia bushes that looked like they would shred any tyre that attempted to cross them. Painstakingly I turned around and headed back out - disappointed, but determined to return.

The next few months saw the return of the rains, and that entire section of the farm became an impassible swamp. When it eventually dried out I decided that the road really needed work before I attempted it again and proceeded to recruit every volunteer I could lay my hands on to prune anything that even looked as if it was thinking about overhanging the road.

With the next rainy season just around the corner, I decided it was time to try again today. The bush-clearing teams had pretty much reached the end of the sandy section, and recent rains had made that a little more solid, but nothing had been even attempted with the rocks, and the road among them appeared to be even worse. Creeping forward in first gear, and grateful again for the superb 4WD of my current bakkie, I edged my way back to the impassible wall of thorns. This time they were not going to stop me, and abandoning the vehicle I eased around the edge and started hiking up the trail.

The road surface was much better here, and would have been easily drivable; it certainly posed no obstacle to my sandal clad feet. After a little while the track, which is probably a much better term than road to be honest, turned gradually to the right and I lost sight of my bakkie. Suddenly ahead of me I caught sight of an old metal water tank, and my pulse quickened. Hurrying the remaining distance, I finally found myself at the entrance to our Wilderness Camp - a mere 90 metres from the spot where I'd parked today, and a year before!

There was a lot there, far more than I'd realised despite seeing a few pictures of it's construction. It's also in really good shape, with surprisingly little bush encroachment. I saw a track leading up away from the camp that looked like a good walking trail, but that will have to wait for another day. The huts are all in good shape, as is the braai pit, but I'd advise against anyone trying out the toilet, since the floor is completely rotten and they might just find themselves taking the long-drop in person!

I had my own reasons for wanting to get there, but having seen the camp I really think it's a shame we aren't using it anymore. I'm going to keep working on the road, and maybe one day someone will camp there again.



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