In and Out Safari 2012

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The in and out and back to Africa Safari for Bald, Blonde and Barb in 2012

Well, as I believe,---most of you know, we did have a rather challenging and in some parts, very sad trip,-- this time----it was a bit like a fireworks display, with a spectacular opening and then came a pile of, what seemed like ongoing defunct crackers---, and then some fizzing Tom Thumbs---and then eventually(by about week 4 of the planned 7)--- that really colorful,finale came through,--- you know,----the one we all wait for and go ---ohhhh, ahhh !!! Equalling in the end a really good, ----last 3 weeks !!!

I think nearly all the recipients of this blog---know what happened, so on that note , we will from here on, try to keep the blog--to the travel diary , as we usually do.
But our feelings will probably pop through from time to time.

If we have’t got to chat and give you all the news, just give either of us a call and we’ll bring you up to speed.

So here goes------ The three of us off on Safari!!!

On 15th July Ian and his much known 2 wives-- departed Mascot (Sydney) for Tambo (Joburg)--- our 1 1/2 years of planning, bookings, were at last, about to become reality--- Barb was just coming with us for the first 2 weeks out to Kruger NP and then us 2 were heading up to Namibia and Botswana for the next 5 weeks.
Day 2 in Joburg we did a tour of the City and Soweto, which included the Hector Pieterson Museum, Winnie Mandela’s house and got ourselves a small glimpse of real life in the worlds largest “Township.” Our highlight for the day was a visit to “The Kliptown Youth Programme”, where some 16 volunteers,-- assist over 350 local children with daily life skills and offer them support,--with, after school activities, in team sports and lessons in computer skills, offer them free reading books from the KYP library --which has books all donated by people from all over the world, who have visited KYP-- And most importantly they ensure that these 350 plus kids don’t go hungry any day, especially before they go to school. We were MOST impressed with KYP, it made a lasting impression on each of us!!!

End of that day we took ourselves off on The Gautrain--( Africa’s,most modern city train) to Sandton ( Africa’s,most modern suburb--bit like something out of USA) for dinner,---it was an amazing contrast to our daytime activities, but allowed Barb to experience both sides of South Africa and a great day was had by all.

Next day was, action stations---up early and first job was to pick up the rental car and a GPS-- who we named Serena--after a recently dear departed good Kiwi friend.
Then it was off to Woolworths and PicknPay to buy the 2 weeks of groceries, including a few good bottles of red!!
Then back to the hotel for a LLD and get ourselves ready to head out to visit our good 2010 SA friends for dinner and a catch up.

As we were getting in the car we received the first of our “ very defunct crackers”!!! ---”Call home urgently!!!!”

So 2 days later, instead off staring into our 'nocs' or shooting copious rolls of film, we were back on the Qantas Kangaroo---- heading home !!!

We --ie E and I did feel particulary sad and disapointed for Barb, (it was to be her first trip to South Africa and Kruger) but she also had her own crackers burning at home ,and that was in some ways still calling her, so she was not unhappy to be going home.
So with one of our favorite sayings, we all just got onwards and upwards---- and said, as we often do----
-----”Everything happens for a reason”---- must say,--we’re still not too sure what that reason is/was but,--one day, maybe we’ll know??
I know this, we all boarded that flight, with NO doubts whatsoever -----that we were doing the right thing!!

As the flight didn’t depart that day till 6pm, E, I think, came up with this great idea-----to find out if there was a Safari Park close enough that we could at least take Barb to it, for a little safari, of sorts ----and there was ---”The Lion Park” out at Honeydew,--about an hours drive from our hotel and then same back to the airport---so off we went.
--- Actually it was also good for helping us keep our minds off “back home”--- We all, but especially Barb got a lovely little tasting--even got to pat a Lion cub, feed a Giraffe and see one of her very favs--the Meercats, all up, we got some good snaps and it was a very worthwhile few hours.

After 2 weeks at home, doing what, we needed to do, --we (ie E and I) at a point in time, saw the opportunity to return and continue on with the rest of the trip,--so we organised bookings, repacked the backpacks and left the housesitters to it.

Barb, dropped us back to the airport and with a myriad of mixed emotions we checked ourselves in and began the Safari for a second time!

After a rather blurry night in Joburg we went back to the airport and boarded the 2 hour flight to Windhoek Namibia,
This was the first of our ---”Shifting the disc”---- as we had never been here before so there were no familiar memories, it was all new!!

We cabbed , with Martin, who gave us a little of the local history etc--Pop. 2mill, English No 1 language, a strong German influence and presence still,due to previous colonisation, good representation of the native people, particulary the Himba and Herero tribes, to be seen ,as you travel through parts of the country etc etc, it was a good intro-- before he dropped us at our BandB --Villa Verde---which looked nothing like the brochure--- bit of a Faulty Towers really---but the bed and brft was good and the location was great, only 5 mins walking distance to the City and our favorite restaurant in Namibia (then and now)--”Nice” (Namibia’s International Culinary Excellence---school)--we ate there both nights, it was great!! and all done by students !!!---- Great job Nam!!

Our next day was a little deja-vuish with picking up the car and grocery shopping---but we were in another country and we did have a tent on top??!!
No calls came through TG.

The selection of food in Nam, was good, could even get vacumm packed chicken--well sort of,--- and because of the German influence/presence ( they were the first European Colonists of South West Africa--ie Nam, in the early 1900’s--- no longer )-- there were, great breads, including copious varieties of Pumperknickel--,which we love, and many other offers of German favorites--saukraut, sausages, snitzels etc, anyway the offer was colorful and VERY German!!!----Quite different from SA.

Nam--got it’s independence in 1994-- since then it has remained peaceful and prosperous--only had 2 Presidents, both honest and good men, by all reports.
It is agriculturally strong--exports --maize, meat and fish, but mining is the mainstay--with reserves of Uranium, lead, zinc etc plus very rich deposits of alluvial Diamonds which they mine for De Beers.
Tourism is growing at about 7% a year and expected to keep that up until 2016.
It is very safe to travel independently-- different to many other African countries.

In summary --we found Nam, quite immature and less sophisticated, in comparison to SA and Bots,-- in a tourism sense, ----but the safety, independence of travel, abundance of wildlife and the spectacular and contrasting scenery --- made up for the other and made it a very worthwhile African holiday destination, so much so --we will go back--soon!!---And finnish off parts we didn’t make it to,--some time soon.

The winter weather was mid 20‘s plus most days-- great for traveling.

From Windhoek we drove north east to Onkonjima--the home of The Africat Foundation---the largest non profit organization in the world,-- committed to the long term conservation of Nam’s Carnivores---particulary Cheetahs and Leopards --of which they have rescued over 1,000 of in the past 16 years.
You can visit there as a volunteer or a tourist--we did the latter.

It was a wonderful 3 days we spent there, relaxing more each day and tracking the carnivores.

Our highlights were when early one morning we tracked a very tired male Leopard lying sleeping under a tree, but with one eye just slightly open at all times keeping a watch on his last nights’ Impala (small antelope) catch, with it half devoured, he had lodged it safely up into a tree near by, then gone down on the ground to have a nap.
This process is normal habitual behaviour for a Leopard.
We studied the state of the poor Impala and took countless, very average, photos of him lying in the bushes, before we headed off to try and find an animal or cat that was clearly visible!!
But as it was ours and the other safari bods --first sighting of a Leopard, we were just happy to have seen him and the kill, even if the photographic shoot was only very average.
But next day, we returned to see what had happened, and now we had-- a female Leopard up the tree frantically finishing off every last possible morsel of the poor Impala,-----until, all of a sudden, --she heard the male returning, ---- she very quickly jumped down and hid in behind the bushes,--- both were amazing sightings, especially as we were able to see the continuim of them --- “in the circle of life “and with no interruptions.

The Leopard is still No 1 for me, so solitary, stealthy, strong and I love the coat!!---

The organisations’ dedication is to work with the farmers and their families to promote the importance for Nam and the world through conservation awareness and effective education in sustainable cattle ranching and farming methods, so to ensure the preservation of the carnivores for generations to come.

From here we drove a little further north east to Waterburg National Park-- for our first 2 nights of our car roof top camping --with the local Baboons!!!

Ian loved this place ----- with rock stratum over 850 million years old and dinasour tracks ---of 200 million years ago and then all the history and the over 100 year old cemetry from the 1904 War of Resistance between the Germans and the local tribal Herero’s.
____ But then there were the baboons---- who if you took your eyes off your food or rubbish --- for a second --they would abscond with it and run----- BUT our E he would catch them--- and they were not too happy about that, so much so, that one day, after we had recieved another of our defunct firework crackers --we decided to go hiking --5 hours-- up to the top of the plateau -- and blow a few of our cobwebs-- plus say a prayer from a highest Mt for all our loved ones.
Well as we walked away--- they --the baboons arrived jumped all over our car and tent, even with us in sight-- it was actually really funny-- there was NO food to be found--- but they were mad with E and that he had robbed them of a bag of rubbish and our yoghurt.

The hike was hard but wonderful and in between,--we often wondered what chaos we might get back to??
Actually it wasn’t too bad--- they had just ripped our Aussie flags off our wing mirrors!!!

Up you Aussies !!

Next morn they just sat back, way, way back!! And watched our every move-- until we drove out --- then they moved in, real fast-- looking for ---anything we might have left behind !!!

Up you Baboons!!!

They are really very cheeky and possibly dangerous characters and at times they were actually bloody annoying here, in The Waterburg National Park.----
But it’s humans that are at fault, for letting it happen.
We found it sad (and rather noisy) to see and hear them being allowed to rummage through the rubbish bins, every time a campsite would be vacated--- and also, if they could get away with it,---- when the campsite was occupied ---- this would never happen in SA!!

Next stop was out of the Camper and into the Onguma Tree Tops Safari tents on the Eastern side of Etosha National Park.

We had 3 glorious nights here---in our Safari tent ,overlooking our very own waterhole!!
We could just sit here all day and Giraffes, Zebra’s, Oryx (Gembok) and Elephants etc, etc, would all come to us !!

It was just the 3 days we needed--- lots of much needed r and r!!!

After Onguma----
We drove for about 15mins. to the Eastern gate of “Etosha National Park”---
which translates to---”The Great White place”--- and that it is---known to have the largest Salt Pan in the world inside it, --covering 20% --100km x 60km --of the park, which originally was a lake fed by the Kunene River, but with a change of course over thousands of years, the lake dried up---hence the massive mineral pan, which now partially fills with water in a heavy rainy season, attracting Flamingo’s and Pelicans, in huge numbers, white roads are lined with calcrete and gravel-- so lots of dust everywhere and in difference to any other National Park in Africa (that we have been in) there are very few trees--- which on the positive side --makes for great sightings of all the wildlife.
The total park covers an area of 23,000 sq km
There are 3 main camps and all with water holes, that are like glue to the wildlife.
Our first 2 nights were spent at the Namutoni Camp, the entrance is a formidable replica of an old fortress that was originally built in 1904 as a control post during the Rinderpest epidemic.
Sightings at the waterhole were disapointing here, but our camp site was good and we were sleeping so well in the tent by this stop.
Our best sighting here was on Dik Dik drive the morning we left, when we arrived at the water hole to see a male Lion devouring one of their favoured prey, a Wilderbeest catch , surrounded by a group of Hyena’s, Jackals and masses of vultures flying overhead.
The Wilderbeest was skinned, the lions face and paws covered in blood and guts and the scene was quite tense at times, as the lone lion tried to protect it’s kill from all the circling scavengers.
Our drive that day, to the second camp Halali, was a spectacular one with herds of Giraffe, Zebra’s, Elephants, a lion crossing the road, in front of us, and then sighting 2 large prides of lions, lying in the dunes----having the daily rest, they can be known to rest up to 23 hours a day---remarkably indolent beasts!!------But mighty beautiful!!!
One pride were all covered in blood, we couldn’t see the kill, if there was any left----they all looked rather satiated!
We are told the female normally does the hunt,but the dominant male normally feed first after the kill and there is much rivalry between the males, thus takeover battles are frequently fought to the death.
Our Halali camp was under the shade of a lovely big Mopane tree and not too far to their Waterhole, which we thoroughly enjoyed both days and sighted our first black and ---first white Rhino at!!!!
Then there was the territorial Bull Elephants’ ongoing staged tussles over ownership of the waterholes’ fresh water pipe,---so entertaining !!
And then the baby elephants bathing and rolling in the mud, learning to drink either minus or with their trunks and watching the role plays in each of the herds-- which we did for hours --was a real treat, that had us in hysterics----E took some great video’s for us all to enjoy--- Academy Award stuff!!!

Off to the third camp, Okaukeujo ----driving on through the amazing wildlife theatre of Etosha, the white roads and pan made sightings easy and colorful, particulary of the wildflowers and the birds, which we have become great fans of, Birds of Africa are so colorful---even the Myna’s and Starlings!
The campsite we got here was down near the waterhole, under a nice shady tree, well away from all the big camping tour buses, and they had a lovely shaded swimming pool that we used for our lunch and then afternoon LLD each day.
Our copious trips to the waterhole at Okaukuejo, was often like seeing Noah’s Ark on steroids---- just so, so many animals---great theatre and a photographers dream.

We really enjoyed one morning when,down at the waterhole, we spotted a group of young school children and their teacher, viewing the animals, I wandered over a had a chat with the teacher and remembering I had a packet of balloons in my bag, I asked her if I could give them some, she, with a big smile said,”that would be wonderful for them, as they probably had never seen a balloon!
I quickly walked back to the tent/car --only to be greeted by a Blackbacked Jackal, doing a survey of our goods and chattels---oh shit I thought---I want to get the balloons,---but I’m not that sure about the Jackal’s plans---so in my largest, loudest voice I told it to p.off!!!
And not at first but by the second time , it took affect, cautiously I approached the car, looked underneath,quickly opened the door, jumped in, searched the backpack for buried balloons, which I hadn’t seen since departing Sydney the first time??
Found them, looked around each side of the car, jumped out, quickly locked the car, as I ran at top speed, back to the kids and away from the missing Jackcal??
It was all more than worthwhile as we watched the kids faces as E blew up each balloon, showed them how to squeak it and then handed it over for one of them to have a turn, some were curious, some too shy and some a little scared, as one had flown up and hit a thorn on the Acacia tree and ,---whammo---BANG !!!
But most were smiling and definetly very intrigued !!
It was a great exercise, in reminding us that children all over the world really just enjoy simple things, and us too!!!!

From Okaukeujo we drove about 200kms west to one of our fav. stops in Nam,
Dolomite camp----a resort/camp only recently, ecologically built and ever so discreetly nestled into the side of a Dolomite hill, that on approach you could hardly see.
We had a beautiful chalet with our own infinity plunge pool---nice one after a week of Etosha camping!!
Our chalet overlooked miles and miles of Savannah Woodlands.
And at last, we had reached some red dirt versus the ongoing white of the last week or so.
From our balcony or the pool, we often spotted wildlife walking by below towards rhe waterhole of the area.
Dolomite Camp was a special place, ----- of all the places in Nam, we would love to go back to it one day---but we’d ask for room 13, it had a view of the waterhole as well.

After 2 glorious days at Dolomite, we drove out of Etosha, to the real world again!

Palmwag Lodge was our next stop, but just for camping, a visit to the “Save the Rhino Foundation” and to enable us to take a day tour into Damaraland and Kaokoland to visit The Himba’s and Herero’s, --the local tribal people of North West Namibia.
And btw our camp site was often visited by the local elephants, while we slept, ohhh!!

Early the next morning with our Himba guide -named Kenneth we headed North on our day tour.
The scenery on the western side of Nam was dramatically different from any thing we had seen, ---- with it’s eerie rock forms,--- all in richly colored layered rock, including all sizes of plateau’s, and the occasional monolith, that reminded us of Central Australia,-----and in between, dotted with the sculptural blue green poisonous (to all but 3 animals!) Eupobia plant and white flowering baobabs, another photographers dreamscape.

Wildlife,---- such as zebra’s, giraffe’s, desert elephants and many varieties of antelopes roamed around freely throughout the Damaraland and Kaokoland countryside, ---which was wonderful to see,as we drove along, that day.

Our day on tour with Kenneth, was really good, but ---quite funny in parts.

It began when we (just Kenneth and us in the car) got hailed down by a young goat herder, who in his native tongue, was, so obviously pleading with Kenneth for help, we could see this and asked Kenneth who was obviously giving a negative response, what the problem was? To which he pointed over to an Ochre and cocoa buttered Himba woman, adorned in all the traditional fare, including her completely bare top half and her two children well settled in under an Acacia tree some 100 metres back from the road,--- and said “She is sick and needing to get to the village some 80 km’s up the road, we immediately said----” plenty of room in this 4WD,-- so what’s the problem?
Anyway next thing she and the kids were in and off we went!
She spoke little or possibly no English, so lots of smiles and cross conversations, using Kenneth as the interpreter became the way, as we travelled along.
Along the way she asked us if we had some Malerone (Anti malarial drug), no such luck.
And when they got out, we had some Koala bear key rings that we were able to give to the kids---big smiles!!
Afterwards it was a great opportunity to chat to Kenneth about how they live/survive, --fascinating culture----they NEVER in their lifetime, take a bath and when they want to spruce up--they just apply more ochre, mixed with the cocoa butter!!!!
No,--- they don’t smell bad and they all have the most beautiful skins------ good little beauty tip for the day-- girls---and it’s all natural!!!!

Next stop was The Himba Village,-- --- this was a group of about 10 women and their children,-- men all away with the cattle in the high country for winter.
The women with their babies and children were all sitting around in a circle, with their wares to offer us, for me from the bra industry --it was a no go, but interestingly enough it proved that the bossom does have no muscles and given no support -- they will droop,---difference was -- the Himba women , had NO stretch marks, just lovely smooth, depending on cup size--- low hanging beautiful boobs!!!
We handed out the rest of our Koala Bear Key rings here, --fortunately just enough to go round--- funnily it was the gold key ring, rather than the bear that attracted them the most!!
We were also taken inside their home/hut , which was all interesting, but, the best part of the visit was when we were leaving and Kenneth gave a group of the kids--- a can of drink each out of the esky in the car---- it was an amazing experience to see, as they all firstly quivered, at the coldness, as they took each can and then they just held it and all kept staring at their respective can’s and each other, sort of giggling and talking quietly---- when we suddenly all realised they had NO idea how to open them !!! ----WOW, Kenneth and us then all took one and proceeded to demonstrate how to pull the ring, then was the squeals of delight-- as it fizzed on opening and then the taste--so cold and sweet---was wonderful to watch their faces and little bodies all wriggling around with the experience---would have made a wonderful!!! Coke advert!!!!

From there we went to Sesfontein for coffee and then I asked Kenneth if we could also visit a Herero village, he said it was not planned, but he would see if some of his local relatives were home, and if they would mind us visiting.
So next thing we were in his Aunties house, were she was busy redorating-- that is mud walling her house---she quickly stopped, got out of her work gear and put on her national costume-- which was what I was keen to see--- it is amazing--- like almost the opposite to the Himba’s --- a helmet style hat and a large flounced dress that covers them from head to toe--- influenced by the European missionaries back in the 1800’s.

As Kenneth now realised we were kosher with picking up people,-- needing lifts (which is pretty much standard procedure for the locals in the remoter parts of Nam) --we then became “the local pick up 4WD on the way back home” --- it was actually quite fascinating, as, they would just pile in and out, all along the way, obviously asking lots of questions of Kenneth and just chatting away, amongst themselves like on any normal bus, and when they got out , they would say goodbye to us like they knew us!!! We were really enjoying the day, still makes me smile when I think of it !!
Looking back at the original tour notes,-- it seems we got a bonus ---to go driving with a Himba family on the way up and then a Herero family on the way back!
That’s a day we will never forget and it gave E a nice break from driving on the gravel roads too.

Next morn we had a porridge, packed up our tent and headed on our longest days drive over to the Skeleton coast, down the sometimes soft, and sometimes hard and well compacted sand road to Swakopmund.
Seeing the ocean again was a good feeling--always is for us!!
Then we marvelled for some time as we sat watching the first of the dunes, sands “actually” shifting down the dunes in the strong winds-- nature is amazing-- so simple, yet so complex!!
It was moving/sliding down in such large quantities and so fast!!-- Like someone was pouring it down from above!

You can quickly see why it has the name --”Skeleton Coast”-- with the winds, the ever swirling rough Atlantic Ocean and then the shipwrecks dotted along the way---or whats left of them-- apparently they don’t last too long the ocean soon wears them all away.
And then we hit the Seal Colony---WOW, at Cape Cross--- were we saw, heard and smelt 1,000’s and 1,000’s of Seals---(ohhh poo!!!) and such noisy buggers.
We read that the female is a NON stop breeder,---what a woman!!!!---Looked like it!!
We then drove through Henties bay, which has now become a popular holiday destination for the South Africans and on to Swakopmund-- originally and still a very German influenced town, architecturally and otherwise-- even in the restaurant we went to for dinner-- even the African Nam waiter spoke to us in German!!
English is their common language in Nam, but not in Swok, it seemed.

This was just an overnite camp for us----our last one in the tent, before we headed south to Soussusvlei Dunes Lodge and the worlds largest towering red dunes!

Enroute we had been given the tips to go see the Flamingo’s at Walvis Bay and then of course to make the compulsory stop at Sesriems’ famous Moose Bakery for the worlds best Apple strudel ---- which the chef proceeded to tell and show me he had made that and all his other cakes with the help of --the NZ bible ---our “Edmonds Cook Book”--- what a hoot !!
Yes the strudel --was good , we shared a slice thank goodness, as they were very generous portions-- it was a busy stop, full of all the tourers heading to and from The Dunes.

Unfortunately we hit there a little late to make it out and onto the dunes for the first nights sunset, but that didn’t worry us, we just bundled up our happy hour gear and drove towards them till the sun was about to set, then out we got and set ourselves up --all with table, table cloth, chairs and our happy’s and enjoyed the whole experience of the sunset.
Actually because we had made the decision to stay in the one and only accommodation offer inside the National Park, we were able to go out and stay out, one hour longer than anyone staying outside the park, so as many of them, ie staying out of the park, drove past, we would raise our glasses!!---Got lots of smiles and toots!!
The residual glow after the sun has actually set, in our (expert/experienced) opinion is the REAL prize!!!
And here that proved again to be the truth--- the glow in the sky, made the dunes redder and the colors in the sky were a mass of bright pink and blue hues, it was a sight to see!!!

The next morn we were up at 4.30am to have a cuppa and a rusk, grabbed our prepacked brft and then followed behind the guide and his passengers, with a number of other tourers, out to the dunes for sunrise--- it was a 60 km drive in the dark---watching for animals and with our adrenalin pumping-- I had dreamed of this morning!!
Once we actually got into the softer sand,-- a funny thing happened, the guide pulled over to change his tyre pressure and signalled us to go on, others were struggling with driving in the sand ,---but not our E, he was doing great---- but at some point unknowingly we took a wrong turn and went on to another dune “Big Momma”, not per the planned dune Dead Vlei , but the error for us,----- was perfect, as, there was ---- just us, ---- no one else--- we were very happy, we had Big Momma, all to ourselves!!! So out of the car we got, took off our shoes and put on our hats and back packs with all our nocs and camera's etc etc and off we went, for the BIG hike up to the top for sunrise!!!

A dream come true !!

We made it and we had such a wonderful,--”just us” experience,--so much peace and fun at the same time, said prayers to all of those we love and just thoroughly soaked all of God's creation in----- it was definetly one of our highlights!!!
And we both used a seriously big roll of film!!!
We ended up having Big M,-- all to ourselves for an hour or maybe longer, --so lucky!!
Then we skipped or slid our way to the bottom, set up our table and chairs, and as others were”just” heading off to the top, we had our lakeside breakfast sitting next to the dune, which by now was reflecting in the lake, with flamingo’s and ostriches all around,--- I think we have been to heaven!?

We had a LLD that afternoon, after our very early morn.

And that night, there was a sand storm out at the dunes, so we did our sundowners on our balcony at the lodge.

Next morn we headed off, --straight past the apple strudel!! And back to Windhoek, we took a scenic route, that had been recommended to us--- it was a tough unsealed road--as so many were in Nam, but the photo ops were plenty!!
Our highlight, that day, was when we spotted two elderley ladies sitting on the side of a road trying to hitch a ride, --not in our directions and we pulled up and gave them all our left over supplies etc etc, the look on their faces was just pure delight,--- but where was the water??
So we then gave them every bit of water/drinks we could--- thirsty work that hitch hiking!!!

The Hilton --Expedia priced, was our stop this night, plus an early dinner and an Amarula at the famous --Joe’s Beerhouse--- a great way to finnish off our on land trip in Nam.

Next morn it was an early pick up for our flights-- first to Maun in Botswana and then second one to the Okavango Delta.

We arrived at Xugana Lodge (pronounced Cugana) by a half hour boat trip, along the river, after our 1 hour flight over the Delta.

It was just spectacular---so very---- “OUT OF AFRICA”, we had 4 glorious nights here so lots off time to read, rest and enjoy the Delta and soak up the African sunsets on the water!!!

We went on Safari in the Mokoro’s--(the dug out wooden canoe’s), went on 2 early morning safari’s-- taking in all the life on the delta--hippo’s, croc’s, monitors, tiny frogs, that made enormously loud croaks, the occasional elephant and then the icing--- the never ending varieties of the most colorful bird life we had ever seen, and as it was spring, there were many nests and babies, often with Croc’s hidden below, in wait for a possible egg or baby to drop---more of that circle of life !!

But our highlight at Xugana began on night 2 when I heard the resident Hippo --Fred, making quite a racket in the middle of the night, I got up, and spotted one large Hippo and a baby just outside our balcony, plodding along through the long grass--- with much excitment I immediately woke Ian, and we watched quietly as they moved on by!!
Next morning, --the camp was a buzz,--- we were told that not only had Fred’s wife and baby been in the camp but also a Pride of 4 lions, who had got in a fight with the Hippo’s!!!!
Much excitement-------this was the last thing we expected in the Delta??
It was the talk of the camp ALL the next day--- some people, including staff were quite concerned.
Later that day we heard they were just lying around in the mid day sun--as lions do!! Only about 200 mtres from our room!!!
The manager Bujos, offered to take us to see them --in the back of their pick up truck that they use for supplies and deliveries, when they do any refurbishing.
We jumped in the back --jack flash-- and drove about 200 mtres or less,I think!!! Had an amazing sighting of the 4 of them, all males just lying around under a bush, all looking quite content and really not too fussed about us and the pick up truck!
That night, I took quite a few visits to our rooms' windows, to check if anything was about-- but no luck.

Next day because the lions had not been successful--at getting a feed either of the hippo’s or anything else--- the staff and some of us , were being rather cautious when we walked around the camp and no one was allowed to walk back to their room at night without a guard, which was the case every night, but especially with the lions being so close and that they had had at least 2 days without a feed.

The following day, they were apparently lying on the air strip (not sure where they thought they were going and on what Air Lion !!??) and the planes couldn’t land, --- so they drove the tractor towards them--- to move them off the strip and they just moved off, a little, into a nearby field to find another resting place.

Then the manager, again, invited us to jump on the trailer on the back of the tractor and go and see them--- and us being us---off we went--- it was really funny-- being at a 5 star resort--- and going on Safari in a tractor--- but was all great fun and much excitement was had by all.

Unfortunately, eventually, like all things, our 4 days at Xugana came to an end-- it was sad leaving--not only for us-- I think we left a little of ourselves at that spot!!

A young Kiwi girl flew us from the Delta to a nearby airstrip, where we boarded a flight to Kasane, then did our border crossing back into the caprivii Strip part of Nam, and then got on board our Ichobezi Houseboat, for 4 days of water safari on the Chobe River,------
Ichobezi --- slept just 4 couples, but we only had to share the boat 3 of the nights.

Our highlight of these 4 days, -- was primarily just being on board the boat and the river and watching all the wildlife enjoying it all and we especially enjoyed sundowners and the magnificent effects on the river from (the planned, of course) African full moon!!! And then there was, being able to,-- at every opportunity --do our very own Safari excursions, in our very own guide and tender boat (tinny) enabling us to to get up close and personal--- to the animals and in particular-----to the elephants and hippo’s doing their daily river crossings.

The last night we had the houseboat all to ourselves---so after dinner we just ended the trip sitting on the back deck, star gazing under the remnants of the full moon, toasting all our loved ones and saying our farewells to our Africa-- which we have come to love so much and will return to again some day soon.

PS Don't forget to click twice on the photo's to enlarge--the animals particulary look wonderful--the closer you can get!!!

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Comments

[Rowy Weatherill]

Safari 2012
Thanks for the interesting blog.