Blogs from Morocco, Africa - page 242

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Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes December 26th 2005

A Christmas Tajine I stirred when the vendors started to wheel in their stalls and wares down the street below my hostel bedroom window. A little while later I fully awoke when the restaurants, cafes and shops opened for business. Stacked chairs were taken off tables and laid out, encroaching as far onto the street as the waiters thought that they could get away with. Small groups of men gathered in the street to smoke, chat and watch the beginning of a new day, a day like any other in Fez. A small caravan of donkeys passed. As I stretched and yawned something struck me; this was Christmas Day and I wasn’t suffering from a hangover. It had been some time since this had happened to me. Mulling over this strange phenomenon I shuffled for the ... read more
"You Can't Beat the Feeling"
A Medina Market
Donkey Caravan in Fes

Africa » Morocco » Tadla-Azilal » El Kelaa des Sraghna December 25th 2005

As long as you have strong eggnog, pumpkin pie, Bing Crosby and a tree it can feel like Christmas in any country. -Anonymous PCV I had an absolutely wonderful Christmas weekend in Tazert, a small Berber village not far east of Marrakech. It was very small and very Berber, and in Darija doesn’t even merit the name of village; they call it a ‘duwar’ and as far as I can tell that means something like the French ‘hameau’. At any rate, it was very different from Kelaa. Luckily it’s not far from Kelaa though. I did have to take three different grand taxis to get there, but each ride was very short and with all the fares put together it cost me just under two American dollars. Grand taxis are the old Mercedes, usually very ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Ouarzazate December 22nd 2005

(Welcome new people! If you don't know what this blog is all about please check my previous entries for a full explaination.) Well it's official. I've been here a long time, but I still have a loooooong way to go. The first 3 1/2 weeks in site have been incredible in every sense of the word. It's been fun, sad, interesting, depressing, educational, frustrating, satisfying, and most of all exhausting. On an almost daily basis I run the entire gamut of human emotions as my mental state attempts to stabilize itself despite the endless influx of new data to process. Attempting to adjust my habits to fit into the deeply ingrained daily routines of the villagers requires almost constant attention, and on the occasions when I do forget to watch what I'm doing, I can be ... read more
More countryside
Another great view
The river

Africa » Morocco » Tadla-Azilal » El Kelaa des Sraghna December 20th 2005

Do first what only you can do. -Daisy Hepburn This was a long sabbatical from my blog, and not entirely a voluntary one - though I suppose I could have found a way to make it work if I really had had the motivation to do so. Actually, this past month I have been busy enough establishing myself here in Kelaa and I really haven’t felt pressed to post much since I have so much time here. I figured the more time I spent getting to know the place first the more accurate and in depth the future blogs would be. Of course, that does take away some of the initial excitement, first discoveries and first impressions - but not all. Kelaa is big enough and life and culture here are complicated enough that I ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Grand Casablanca » Casablanca December 18th 2005

I looked around the bus station, he was nowhere to be seen, I went off and got a coffee and thought if he's not here by the time I finish this then I'm going! Sure enough he turned up as I was finishing it. Unfortunately the hint to go our separate ways wasn't taken so we continued on ... On the most awful bus! Packed full with bad seats, a normality in Morocco BUT the worst was to come as we headed SE towards Marrakesh en route to Tan Tan, the rear door wasn't firmly shut so a billowing gale of freezing wind came through all night, to the point that I could feel my toes for the cold! I hardly slept, the cold just went through me. Arriving somewhere in the lower Atlas between Casa ... read more
Friendly faces in Tan Tan
Tan Tan's bus & grand taxi depot

Africa » Morocco December 18th 2005

Well the call at the bus station all day that I could hear from the room of our hotel was 'Agadir, agadir, agadir, agadir' so after organising for us both to do some washing on the roof top of the hotel I went down to the bus station to organise our tickets southbound. I had no idea when the next bus south would go or when it indeed where it was going to go. I walked into the bus station area with everyone continuing to shriek town names and then they all piled on me asking me if I wanted to go to Agadir, Marrakesh or anything else (except a southern destination) so I just walked through them all pointing at the ground and saying 'Tan tan, Tan Tan, Tan tan' which had most of the ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Grand Casablanca » Casablanca December 17th 2005

Finally the train hauled into Casablanca, I was overjoyed to be back, I'd be closer to my friends Fatiya & Abderrahim and their family. I rang Fatiya immediately and said I was in town and we could meet up in the morning, but in true Fatiya style she was having none of it and asked me to wait there whilst she'd drive over and pick me up. I told my travel companion and apologised for leaving him to his own devices but said that the Hassan II mosque & the medina near La Places des Nations Unis was worth visiting and it would be a 'modern' introduction to a Moroccan town. He wasn't too concerned, and as Fatiya pulled up he was heading for the Ibis next to the station. She told me to ask him ... read more
The Mosque
One good reason to move on

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier December 14th 2005

The day came, Wednesday 14th December, I met with my new travel partner a day or so before and he spent some time seeing Carcassonne & it's historic Cite. Sitting in a bar in central Carcassonne across the road from the Eurolines bus stop for the bus to Granada ... wine was sipped for several hours amongst a few friends of mine. Phone call after phone call it turned out the bus was running an hour, then 2 hours and then 3hrs late, after being kicked out of the bar at closing time, my friends having left, we took shelter in the station until 1am! Finally on board the bus, I caught a few winks as far as Valencia, we were transferred to another bus where I caught up on a bit more sleep and enjoyed ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Tadla-Azilal » El Kelaa des Sraghna December 2nd 2005

Opportunities correspond with almost mathematical accuracy to the ability to use them. -Lilian Whiting I changed host families after about a week in Kelaa, but hopefully this is it for the moving until I get my own place now. This new family is really only a young couple, but they are so wonderful; I couldn’t ask for anything more. I feel very lucky to be living with them. The wife, Maryam, is not much older than me and we get along great. She actually used to work for Peace Corps as an LCF, “Language and Cultural Facilitator” in Federalese. We were talking about the US government the other day, and how much it’s involved in Peace Corps and I told her than when she worked for PC her paycheck was actually US citizens’ tax money, ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier December 2nd 2005

M is for Morocco. And Tangier, it's northern-most port and the gateway between Europe is my first taste of Africa. In Tangier you can experience your worst nightmare and an enchanting fantasy in the same convoluted maze of streets and alleys that make up this ancient town. As a port town, and with a long history of changing powers, Tangier now has a full mix of cultures, peoples, languages and everything that goes along with it. On the streets arabic is the language of preference, but one also hears french, spanish, english and the native tongue of the Berber people who inhabit the surrounding mountains. Tea houses are the popular hangouts, where people go for discussion, to watch religious broadcasts blaring from television sets, trading hash, hashish and opium, and of course to sip away on ... read more
Mosques and Mosaics abound
in this Muslim country...
Ahammed...




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