Blogs from Morocco, Africa - page 202

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Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes October 18th 2007

Sunday October 14, 2007 Eid Said. We have just emerged from a day of eating our way through the Eid Said celebrations. Yesterday was the last day of Ramadan, so last night’s sleep was uninterrupted by a call for the midnight meal. Instead we were left to sleep until a knock came at our door to announce breakfast. It was the first of four meals that we sat down to today, and set the tone appropriately for a day of doing nothing much other than eating Moroccan doughnuts, disks of round bread with olive oil, peanut butter sweets and cous cous soup. Honestly little else was accomplished today. At some point we dressed up in our finest Indian salwaar tops and made our way down to the sitting rooms, where we sat with the guests who ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes October 17th 2007

October 2nd, 2007 If cleanliness is next to godliness, then I am Raphael’s “Alba Madonna,” glowing with saintliness. I have just returned from our neighborhood hamam, now a weekly ritual, and can state out of experience that you’ve never been truly clean if you’ve been to a hamam to sweat out all the toxins and be scrubbed within an inch of your life. My first time, accompanied by Mohammed’s wife Anna, I was nervous at the prospect of communal nudity. In the States, modesty in dress is nearly non-existent, with women free to wear just as little as they please. But underneath the clothes (as minimal as they may be), the naked body is scandalous, even to people of your own gender, and self-consciousness, driven by the the stick-thin mary-kate-and-ashley celebrity culture, makes girls ashamed of ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes October 16th 2007

Because we can't ever seem to put the camera down...... read more
Tour of Fez
Walk in the medina
Practicing the oud

Africa » Morocco October 15th 2007

"On a slightly rough sea, but of the purest blue, the ships glides without rocking or pitching. On the left, the horizon is lined with a few clouds; on the right, by the mountains of the Spanish coast". So wrote Henri Matisse aboard the SS Ridjani in January 1912, as he sailed, for the first time, to Tangier. Ninety-five years later, an hour behind schedule, and with all thought of 'gliding' gone, the ferry ploughed its way across the Strait of Gibraltar. The sun was setting west over the Atlantic and the water was dark beneath the gilded flecks of the wave-crests. Little was visible through the smeared windows, and I was yet to glimpse Morocco. I tried to get out to deck. A plump Spanish steward with a moon face and pursed lips asked me ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes October 12th 2007

Our train carried us through olive orchards and low green hills (a comforting change from the desert landscape outside of Casablanca) and deposited us in Fez. We bargained our way into the back of a taxi-van and sat on the floor of the luggage area in the back, peering through the red window curtains as we drove from the Ville Nouvelle, through the Fez J-did and finally to the Medina (Fez is divided into three distinct sections, which are vaguely the new and more Western quarter, the old Jewish quarter, and finally the old walled city, where we live). The medina is, at first gaze, everything I could want a medina to be. The walls of the city are a light sand color, clean and smooth and high—almost as if they've been built to replicate older ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Grand Casablanca » Casablanca October 12th 2007

It is strange to be in this country just to be. I know that I have left the US. And I know that I am here with my sister. But where is here and how long will I be there? I arrived in Casablanca under cover of night last night. It is strange to fly into a new place at night, because the lights give you very little sense of the dimensions and textures and setting of a place. (In this case, however, even a daytime approach wouldn’t have helped me much, as I woke up only when the front wheels of our plane hit the runway and I was too groggy even then to process what it meant to finally land in Morocco after months of talking about it). MC met me at the airport. ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz » Essaouira October 11th 2007

We are enjoying the last of our day and a half visit to Essouira. It's a beach resort town and used to be popular with the hippie crowd. The atmosphere is so much more relaxed here and for the first time we felt comfortable browsing the shops in the Medina without being hassled to our wits end. We are taking advantage of the time to relax and gain our strength for the next portion of our trip. After today we make our way across the Sahara desert and into Mauritania over the course of 6 days. There's going to be lots of sun, sand, and digging (digging out the truck when we get stuck).... read more
Essouira 4
Essouira 1
Essouira 2

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane October 11th 2007

This is our last day in morocco.... We wake up and meet up with our tour guide Momo who plans to take us around Fes. First he takes us to the royal palace and around there. It was a totally different scene than what we had experienced before this. It was a big city. He took us up to a mountain to get an aerial view of the city and that was cool to look at, because it seemed much more condensed than say looking at NY and it's big streets. This was a city that he also called a labyrinth. It was composed of small alleyways which twisted and turned and contorted into all different directions. It was a sight. He then took us around to see different ways of life here. But it seemed ... read more
View of Fes
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Africa » Morocco October 10th 2007

"Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." Miriam Beard We wake up to the sounds of the camels outside. Some not so pleasant sounds. I wake up before dawn easily when I have something to look forward to. This was definitely something to look forward to. Claro! I wake up and walk outside my tent to see a huge group of camels sitting on the ground. All of which have someone to walk them. Some of them are tied together- Me, Alex, and Kezia’s camels were all tied together. I never got to asking the name of the man who walked our camels. He was so nice and helpful, especially in climbing the dune. We got on our camels ... read more
Our camels, and the man who walked them
My camel
Alex, the camel behind mine

Africa » Morocco October 9th 2007

Day three More traveling inland to get to the Sahara! We stop in the most beautiful place. Its inside this huge huge canyon. It was an oasis as well. Just imagine driving for hours on end with gray, orange, black, and all dim colors. Then all of a sudden you come across bright green palms trees and water and a whole village. We stopped for pictures at one oasis, then stopped for food at the next. We saw rock climbers on these huge walls of the canyon. We were in the vans all day traveling and then reached a small city where we met up with the jeeps. We transferred all our stuff to the jeeps and hopped in with excitement. We drove around the city for a bit then all of a sudden just went ... read more
Rest stop in Canyon
First Oasis
First Oasis




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