October 2nd, 2007 If cleanliness is next to godliness, then I am Raphael’s “Alba Madonna,” glowing with saintliness. I have just returned from our neighborhood hamam, now a weekly ritual, and can state out of experience that you’ve never been truly clean if you’ve been to a hamam to sweat out all the toxins and be scrubbed within an inch of your life. My first time, accompanied by Mohammed’s wife Anna, I was nervous at the prospect of communal nudity. In the States, modesty in dress is nearly non-existent, with women free to wear just as little as they please. But underneath the clothes (as minimal as they may be), the naked body is scandalous, even to people of your own gender, and self-consciousness, driven by the the stick-thin mary-kate-and-ashley celebrity culture, makes girls ashamed of
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