Kebabs and Crazy Sultans

Africa » Morocco
August 14th 2006

Published: August 19th 2006

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Gus C

Quartier Habous

New medina in Casa

After a long travel day from Algeciras Spain (2.5 hrs ferry and 6 hrs train) I finally arrived in Casablanca. They still play the Bogart movie in the old cinemas.

Since arriving in Morocco, I've tried to eject the Spanish language tape that has been endlessly playing in my head, and pull out my very rusty French. Quelle horreur!

My cousin said I would be better off travelling with a guy in this country or I would be hassled everywhere. No volunteers, so I instead booked a 15 day tour with Imaginative Traveller. Surprisingly I have not been hassled much at all; just the usual catcalls and cries of "konichiwa!". Everyone has been really friendly, helpful and welcoming.

Spent a couple of days in Casa by myself just walking around the neighbourhood, medinas and markets. Also did a tour of the Hassan II Mosque, which is the 3rd largest one in the world. Extremely impressive as it can hold 25,000 worshippers inside, and 80,000 outside. Two days is definitely enough in Casa; in hindsight Rabat would have been a better option.

Everywhere you go there are Moroccan men sitting in the pavement cafes watching the world go

Brochette BBQ

by. The beverage of choice is mint tea, which is loaded with sugar, and tastes kind of like warm Colgate toothpaste. Sounds pretty foul, but it's quite refreshing to the palate and your breath. Moroccans apparently consume over 40 kgs of sugar per capita per annum, so it's little wonder the incidence of diabetes has shot through the roof.

Lunch and dinner has consisted of either couscous, salad, omelette, beef tagine, chicken tagine, chicken brochettes (kebabs), beef brochettes, etc etc etc .... not a lot of variety. The olives and pastries have been divine. Have also had a pretty dry holiday as the bars are only frequented by men and prostitutes.

Next stop was Meknes, which was the imperial capital during the reign of Moulay Ismail in the 17th century. This was one seriously wacked out Sultan. During his 55 year reign he fathered over 880 children; and just for the hell of it used to go around randomly picking out subjects to kill in his daily public executions. He killed over 10,000 in total. Also did a day trip out to Volubilis with some amazing Roman ruins, and the Moulay Idriss Mausoleum which is the most important