Oases, Gorges....and Hollywood?

---

Of the gladdest moments in human life, methinks, is the departure upon a distant journey into unknown lands. Shaking off with one mighty effort the fetters of Habit, the leaden weight of Routine, the cloak of many Cares and the slavery of Home, one feels once more happy. The blood flows with the fast circulation of childhood …. A journey, in fact, appeals to Imagination, to Memory, to Hope – the three sister graces of our moral being. - Sir Richard Burton

One benefit of driving cross country in the everpresent tourist mini-bus is the ability to see more of the landscape. In a country like Morocco, the landscape, both natural and man made, is incredibly diverse.

We had already seen rolling green fields along the coast and north eastern part of the country, high alpine villages more at home in Switzerland, Cedar forests laden with wildlife, snow capped mountain peaks in the Atlas ranges and rose gold mountains of sand in the Sahara. What else could there possibly be?

The landscape was becoming increasingly more barren, winding roads cutting around the sides of rocky mountains, void of much greenery. But then around a bend, in front of us, like a mirage sits Morocco's, and in fact on of the world's, largest Oases.

The Tafilalet oasis, which gives its name to the whole valley and the province of Errachidia, is the largest palm grove in the world. Some 800,000 palm trees produce a variety of dates. It is the last large oasis before the desert and the endless sand dunes of the Sahara. Historically, Tafilalet is the name given to the palm grove around Rissani, and the name is usually extended to the valleys of the rivers Ziz and Rheris. Tafilalet, “the sea of palm trees” is roughly triangular, 12 km across the base, and 20 km long. It is crossed by the Ziz, and westwards bordered by the Rheris, two rivers that flow only rarely.

Mudbrick Berber towns are nestled along the river, stark against the green of the palms on one side and blending in to the rocky desert terain on the other.

Driving the serpentine roads between Fez and Marrakech provides opportunities to view many Oases and Valleys and the villages that derive their livelihood from the lifegiving rivers that run thrugh the middle. Dates, Barley, Citrus, Roses contribute to the economies of the Ziz, Todra and Dades Valleys and Oases. The best way to experience these pockets of green is to get out of the bus and walk through the villages and down along the valleys. Wandering through the fields of barley and the date palms its easy to believe that things haven't really changed for hundreds of years.

The Dades Valley is also known as the Valley of the Roses, as it is here where the fragrant rose oil and rose water is produced for the country, and the landscapes are a sea of pink Persian roses. Their beauty and subtle aromas fill the air. To celebrate the wealth and success of the harvest, the Dades Valley hosts the annual Rose Festival.

Further along the road, near the town of Tinerhir is the spectactular Todra Gorge. Both the Todra and neighbouring Dades Rivers have carved out cliff-sided canyons on their final 40 kilometres through the mountains. A tiny glacier stream runs through the middle of the gorge. Beside this runs a well paved road, lined with tourist buses, hotels and street stalls. While a spectacular setting, much of the remoteness seems removed. Its a double edged sword, the accessibility that allows one to see and experience these places is often the the thing that removes its true nature. While many of these countries and tour companies espouse responsible tourism, I wonder is it truly possible? Change will always be inevitable... To both the people and places.

A final day before reaching our end destination of Marrakech is something of a surprise. The town of Ouarzazate, which, for centuries, was the convergence point for the people of the Atlas, Draa and Dades Valleys has become known as "Oually-wood". It's sprawling Kasbahs, garrison walls and surrounding countryside, have provided settings for an endless list of movies, including and blockbusters such as Jewel of the Nile, Prince of Persia, Babel, Kingdom of Heaven, Troy, Sahara, Gladiator, Alexander, the Mummy, Syriana, Sex & The City 2, as well as of course Lawrence of Arabia. A cinematic museum in the town is worth the 30 Durham entrance fee, to wander the grounds and see sets and equipment from movies shot in the location. A couple of large studios are also located on the outside of town. The set built for Jerusalem for the movie Kingdom of Heaven can still be seen from the road.

An hour so drive away stands the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou, a strange hybrid. Parts of the original kasbah are over 700 years old, built from mud brick. A closer examination of the seemingly well preserved impressive walls and gate at the entrance shows its made of polystyrene, constructed for the filming of Kingdom of Heaven and Gladiator. A walk through the kasbah reveals areas that have been restored, complete with a pair of rubber thongs dried into the mud brick. A stone path for tourists, four years old, winds to the top of the kasbah. A newly opened bridge to cross the river to the kasbah from the small town opposite. It's difficult at times to separate the old from the new, or overhearing other travellers, the real from the fake. But in a way it's all real. It's a sign of modern society encroaching on, intermingling with and overwhelming the old. It's happened for centuries elsewhere, In Morocco we are simply seeing it first hand.

Tomorrow would be the half day drive to Marrakech, our final destination and for me a much anticipated highlight. But like the movies filmed in this stunning location, full of drama and action, little did we know our planned departure would throw up some unexpected twists of its own...

---