Tarifa and Tangier

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After riding a bus for over 12 hours from Valencia, I was still not in Tarifa. I arrived at a town called Algeciras, where I needed to go to another bus stop and take another bus. Luckily, the other bus stop was not very far from the one where I was dropped off. Algeciras was another port town near the southern point of Spain. I might have opted to stay there when planning my route, because ferries left for Tangier from there as well, but there were not as many hostels available as in Tarifa. Tarifa was a short 45 minute bus ride, and I only paid 2.10 EUR for the trip. Once I arrived in Tarifa, the first thing I noticed was all the surf shops. I found my hostel and talked to some people who told me that Tarifa was quite the hotspot for kite surfing and other water sports. Apparently the bottleneck created by Spain and Northern Africa around the Strait of Gibraltar creates high winds all year long. One guy was staying in Tarifa for a month just to kite surf. I found it very intriguing, and if I had more time I surely would have given it a try. However, I came to Tarifa for pretty much one reason: to make a day trip to Tangier. That evening I talked to some guys from Philadelphia who had just explored Tangier using the same tour I wanted to take. They explained that a round-trip ferry ticket was 66 EUR, but the tour, which included a round-trip ferry ticket and lunch, was only 65 EUR. We stayed up for a while exchanging stories about our travels. They had been in Madrid during the World Cup final and were telling me how crazy it was, and I related my stories about Barcelona’s craziness.

The next day I awoke to catch the ferry to Tangier. I went to the little shop to buy the tour pass and went straight to the port. It seemed funny to have to go through customs for a 35 minute ferry ride, but the whole process was involved, and then some. Once out of Spain, I needed to fill out a couple forms for the Moroccan border control with my information and why I was going to Morocco. My friend Paul, the one I met in Montenegro, warned me about needing to get my passport stamped before the ferry docked in Tangier. I immediately looked for the passport desk. There was already a line, but I was lucky to get in it when I did, because it only got longer as the time of departure neared, and no one was stamping passports until the ferry actually left. The ferry was pretty nice, with lots of comfortable seating, but I was disappointed that there was no deck with a view. The only views were through windows. Once I arrived in Tangier, I followed the tour guides. They divided us by language, and then had us all get onto a bus.

As the bus drove through the city, the tour guide pointed out some things to us along the way. However, he was speaking in 3 different languages so there was not much content to be gained. I was also a little disappointed that we did not get photo opportunities. Our first stop seemed pretty far outside the city where guys were giving camel rides. Not like a camel tour, but a ride for literally 20 feet in a circle. It was pretty much just to take a photo, but I wasn’t really interested. Meanwhile, about 5 salesman ran around the tourists trying to sell their bracelets, shirts, watches, instruments, etc. In retrospect I probably should have ridden a camel just to get away from the salesmen for a while. It wasn’t too long before we got back on the bus and headed towards the Kasbah. The Kasbah was an old town area at the top of a hill surrounded by a fortress wall. The fortress wall was built by the Portuguese when they had claimed territory there. Now it is a mass marketplace. The tour guides led us up and down the streets through different markets where we were constantly hounded by merchants selling items off of their hands. We saw a pair of snake charmers working with a cobra, which was very cool. One was playing the drum while the other was handling the cobra in a very meticulous manner. I wanted to get a video, but the show did not last but a few seconds. I assumed that they didn’t want to play with the cobra too much at one time. I waited for them to start charming it again, but instead they pulled out a much smaller snake for people to take pictures with.

After that we were led to an opening in the wall of the Kasbah to a cliff overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar. The view was very nice, but it was a little too cloudy to see the coast of Spain. At least, they told us that on a clear day it was visible. Oh well. After this we were led through more of the marketplace, and got back on the bus to go to Medina, an old town part of Tangier near the port. Our first stop was into a restaurant for lunch. We saw a quartet playing old instruments near the entrance as we walked in. We were seated and served a 4 course meal. The first was a noodle soup which was pretty good, but I have no idea what it was. Next we were served minced meat on skewers, which were also good. The main course was chicken and couscous with vegetables. It reminded me a little of the paella, but with couscous instead of rice, and it was probably the best dish that afternoon. For dessert, we were served a pastry-like item. It had flaky, pastry-like layers coated in a stiff, sugary frosting, and it was delicious. We were given a mint tea with honey to wash it down. We left the restaurant after lunch to explore Medina, but this is where the tour started to get really annoying.

Medina was, once again, a marketplace packed full of small shops and with merchants running around trying to sell just about anything off of their hands. We were guided in and out and around these streets while salesmen continued to pester us. This constant barrage and ways to avoid them became the topic of every conversation amongst the tourists. We were then led into a large shop and guided upstairs. Here we sat while a salesman gave us his whole pitch about the rugs he had available. I don’t think anyone was interested, but that didn’t stop him from unrolling about 20 rugs right in front of us. All different styles, colors, and sizes, and of course many different payment options available. Once the “show” was over I promptly made my way towards the entrance where I would wait for the tour guide to lead us onward. Looking out into the streets I could see the salesman lining up, like sharks, getting ready for us to go back out. The tour guide finally came and led us out the back, but not before saying something to the salesman just outside, which I’m almost positive was something to the effect of, “Go around, we’ll be exiting on the other side.” Before arriving at our next stop we were promised something “cultural and less commercial”. We went into a “pharmacy” where I could see many shelves containing glass jars full of herbs. The store owner spent a few minutes describing different herbs used for cooking, healing, protection, and even cosmetic. We were allowed to sample some of the items, but soon began the bargaining. With each item he was sure to walk around the crowd making sure that everyone saw what was being offered. Once we left the “pharmacy” we were allowed to walk around and buy things for 30 minutes. I had absolutely no interest in buying anything or seeing more marketplaces, and was upset that I had not seen anything I wanted to yet, so I started walking toward the coast. Once outside Medina, the salesmen seemed to disappear. No one was bothering me at this point, so I continued to wander for about 15 minutes. That was long enough to reach the beach, and then I turned around to return to the group. More like 60 minutes had passed before the tour guide led us all back onto the bus to go back to the port. Once we arrived at the port, I asked the tour guide if I could stay in Tangier a little longer, and take the next ferry. He said that would be fine, and I set off to do some real exploring.

I passed through the port gate and into the main square of Tangier where I was promptly offered a tour by some random guy. He told me he would take me to the old town of Medina and show me some great shops for only 20 EUR. I think I threw up in my mouth, a little, as I declined. He followed me for a while, and lowered the offer to 5 EUR, but this guy didn’t get that I just wanted to wander around. I lost him as I turned up what looked like a main street. I was a little hungry, and wanted to get some Moroccan durum, their currency, and I resolved both of these at the fruit market where they accepted my Euro and gave me change in durum. I had read online that the main streets were Mohamed V and Mohamed VI (and I thought Briarcliff was confusing). Mohamed VI was the main street along the coast that I was already familiar with, and I soon found Mohamed V up the hill.

I walked along Mohamed V taking pictures of the squares, parks, and interesting architecture, when I was approached by another tour guide. When he first asked me for a tour I declined. He kept following me and although I kept ignoring him, he didn’t start listing prices for a tour, but just began explaining the history behind some of the buildings I was taking pictures of. It wasn’t long before he asked me if I studied engineering. I told him as a matter of fact I had. I let him introduce himself to me at this point. His name was Mostafa, and he was of the Berber people with tattoos on their faces. Seriously, that was exactly how he explained it to me. They lived in the mountains east of Tangier, but he came to the city often. He told me would take me to the largest mosque in Tangier, and even after I accepted he still did not say anything about money. After taking some pictures of the largest mosque, I felt comfortable enough to ask him where the American Legation was. Mostafa took me there, again without asking for anything in return. Along the way he pointed out a old-style villa and the castle where Mohamed VI lived. He explained that Tangier was a very international city for a while, especially around the coast. There were pockets of French, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese architecture. We finally arrived at the American Legation, the only historic landmark of the United States located abroad. This was built because Morocco, in hopes to improve trade relations in 1777, was the first country to recognize the United States as an independent nation. Alas, visiting hours had passed, but I got some pictures of the outside. It was pretty hidden within Medina, and I would surely have never found it on my own. I told Mostafa that I appreciated all the information, but I needed to get back to the port. Once we were within view he told me how to continue down to the port, and still did not mention any fees for his information and guidance. Since the other guy started off with 20 EUR for a tour, I felt that that was an appropriate amount to give to Mostafa. He thanked me for the tip, and I thanked him for giving me the tour that I couldn’t get all day.

On my way back to the port I passed through the gate when some kids started pointing to the port saying, “the port is that way”, as if I needed direction. They kept following me, tugging at my pants and “leading” me in the right direction. I didn’t respond but just laughed a little, especially when, towards the end of the path, the kid said, “give me money”. As I approached the port I could see the ferry when some guys with badges asked for my passport and ticket. That piece of paper that I had to fill out apparently needed a signature, which he was going to sign, but asked for 20 EUR before doing so. I told him “no” and walked away, continuing toward the port. A crowd of badges began to surround me as another man with a badge asked for my passport and, acting like he was my friend, signed the paper and only asked for “5 or 10 EUR”. I have him 2 just get the crowd off of my back and kept walking to the port. As I entered the building and just before the border checkpoint, there was one final guy with a badge who asked to see my passport and ticket. This was probably the legitimate badge, but he didn’t say anything when he saw my paper was already signed. Once through the border checkpoint another guy asked me if I was going to Tarifa. I said yes and he guided me down the only path available to the only ferry at the port, and at the end also wanted a tip. I told him “no” and continued toward the ferry. The sun was setting as I boarded the ferry back to Tarifa. I went out on the deck, and though the view was blocked except for a window, I managed to lift myself just high enough to put my camera over the wall as I took a picture of the sunset unobstructed by a window.

The next day I spent the morning exploring more of Tarifa, which is really a small town. There is an old castle near the port. An old lighthouse sits on a hill near the southernmost tip of Spain. On one side of the tip is the Mediterranean, while the Atlantic Ocean is on the other side. An island sits just off the coast right in between these two bodies of water where an old castle sits. The old town of Tarifa is only about 10 by 10 blocks. It has an old church and a relatively large cathedral. The most interesting was a park on a hill near the castle, which was centered around an overlook of the Strait of Gibraltar. Though it was still not very clear on this morning either, I could just barely see the coast of Northern Africa.
Tarifa is a budding destination for kite surfers and other wind-powered water sports. I found it very backpacker friendly as there were many others like me, and the townspeople were very friendly. Tangier is a much larger city with 1.2 million inhabitants. With its key location it has historically been a city with a lot of commerce. However, it does look like it is just starting to develop its own tourism industry. As I walked along Mohamed VI I could see a lot of construction of large buildings for hotels and condos right along the coast. If you just went on the tour you might think the population is entirely composed of merchants, but as I explored the rest of the city I found many much more normal elements, including a pharmacy with more than glass jars of herbs. It has mosques, synagogues, and churches. I’m glad I went to Tangier, because it was quite an experience. However, if I go back I’m sure I will find myself in Marrakesh or Casablanca. And if I ever find myself longing for kite surfing, Tarifa will be the place to which I return.

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Photos

Castillo de Guzman Bueno
In Tarifa

Plaza de Santa Maria
In Tarifa

Strait of Gibraltar
View from Tarifa

Strait of Gibraltar
View from the Kasbah

Main Square
Along Mohamed VI

Park/Square
In Tangier

Cool Building
In Tangier along Mohamed V

Largest Mosque
In Tangier. That is one thick Minaret.