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Published: July 30th 2012
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This was my second time back to Morocco during my year off. I was so enthralled by its beauty the first time that I thought I’m so close ( just a 1 hour and a half flight) it would be crazy for me not to go back again. So I did with the advice of a few friends. I am so thankful for having returned because it somehow felt like a homecoming. I debated whether or not to travel to the same place but then I thought that I loved it so much so why not. Why not since “Life is now”.
After my tour of Southern Morocco, I stayed in Marrakech for six more glorious days. Marrakech is Morocco’s third largest city after Rabat, the capital and Casablanca, or Casa as the Moroccans refer to it. The city is divided into two distinct areas, the Ville Nouvelle which was built up by the French and the historic city of the medina, home to Place Djemaa el-Fna which is designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is the only square in the world to have this distinction. It is the focal point of the medina (the old
city) and the city as a whole.
My stay was made even more magical by my choice to stay not in a hotel but in a Riad situated in the medina. So every morning and every evening I had to walk by all of the vendors that were near this Riad and endure their calls for my attention to purchase anything from a stone that makes your tints your lips a lovely shade of red to a picture frame made out of used tires. The Riad was a lovely oasis with air conditioning which was so appreciated after spending a day in the 45C dry heat.
It is at Jardin Majorelle in Gueliz that I found refuge from the heat and sun one afternoon in Marrakech. It’s an oasis in the city which was acquired in 1924 by Jacques Majorelle, an Art Nouveau French artist. He first came to Marrakech from Nancy, France in 1919 to continue his career as a painter. In 1947 he opened the garden to the public, a legacy that continues to this day. After a car accident in 1962, Jacques Majorelle returned to France and died shortly thereafter.
Majorelle’s garden covers over 12 acres with a house which is painted Cobalt called Bleu Majorelle. Most of the stonework in the gardens is the same colour with planters painted bright yellow, orange and green. The gardens are home to over 15 different species of native birds, goldfish, turtles and frogs. There is an impressive bamboo plantation, olive and banana trees, palms and bougainvillea that add a splash of vivid colour to the greenery. After Majorelle’s death the gardens became overgrown and were basically abandoned until 1980 when Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge bought the property and restored the gardens to their former splendor. This is where YSL designed his collections and after having visited can understand how inspirational not only Morocco can be but the gorgeous gardens as well. It is here that the designer’s ashes were scattered and there is small memorial to him here. The Yves St. Laurent and Pierre Berge foundation will ensure its continuing existence.
I visited many museums beginning with the Museum of Marrakech which is housed in the 19th century Dar Menebhi Palace. It is one of the finest examples of Spanish/Arab architecture made up of rooms
around a central courtyard which as a centerpiece has an enormous chandelier made of metal shards, each one decorated with inscriptions and geometric symbols. The rooms house exhibits of historical books and manuscripts, clothes, coins, carpets and pottery from Arab, Berber and Jewish civilizations. The museum also houses modern Moroccan art. From this museum, I went to Ben Youssef Madrasa. Madrasa means centre and can be used to refer to a school, college or a university. This madrasa was an Islamic college where students came to learn and study the Koran. There are only 130 bedrooms which housed up to 900 students where everything from cooking, studying and sleeping was done. The central courtyard is beautifully decorated with carved cedar and marble. The tiles are laid out in geometrical patterns and inscriptions, mostly phrases from the Koran since no human or animal representations are allowed.
No visit to Morocco would be complete without getting lost, hassled and ripped off in one its souks (markets). The Marrakech Souk is one of the best located in the Medina and next to Jemaa el Fnaa square. The souks are covered narrow winding streets with stalls and galleries and where haggling
is the name of the game, nothing of course has a price on it so you have to decide what it is worth to you and what you consider is a fair price before you begin” the dance”. Some of the strategies to butter you up are, “You’re my first customer. I’ll give you a good price. It’s good luck for me!” And of course, “You’re from Canada, that’s my favourite country.” So when asked where I was from I tried Alaska just to see what would happen and they were a little baffled because they didn’t have a compliment or comeback because of course they’d never met someone from there! Another strategy I used was to give my own outrageous low ball price and then watch the vendor’s bewildered expression. Then I would say, “What’s the matter? Let’s make a deal with a smile, always a smile since we’re just dealing.” I gave back some of their own medicine and it worked to my great surprise!
This time round I didn’t do a whole loop but travelled to southern Morocco where I’d been before but not to all of the places. I went back to the
Sahara by camel. This camel ride, my third was the most comfortable ever, meaning I didn’t fall off and wasn’t walking funny when I got off my ride. The sunset was as beautiful as I remembered it the first time and the overnight accommodations were just as spectacular as the first time too, under the stars! I visited Ait Benhaddou which is a Unesco World Heritage site for its beautifully preserved Kasbah and
I ask myself why did I return to a country that I’d already visited. The short answer is because I love it! it’s not just about the beautiful and varied landscape but mostly because of its friendly, welcoming and laid back people. Inshallah is heard all the time. It means God willing. So much is left up to this and hence the laissez faire ambiance. Everyone has time to stop and talk to you (some more than others) or help you or smile or ask how you are and really mean it because they wait for your answer. Perhaps I love it so much because behind every dusty, weathered door there is an unimaginable wonder waiting to be discovered.
“You who
enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded.”
Ali ben Youssef Medersa, Koranic Learning Centre
Yes, every imaginable hope and expectation has been exceeded, yet again!
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