Marrakech

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6.20AM wide awake, read a text from Phoebe and manage to get aniother hours sleep. Breakfast at riad, breads, jam, pancake, fresh OJ, tea and coffee. Finally Mohammed arrives and we are talking sites. On his advice we visit Palais El Badi then Palais La Baha, 2 cameras madly clicking, the former a ruin (housing the famous Moroccan rattling birds in the turrets), the latter an amazing mosaic exerience. Walk the streets for a while to get the true Marrakech experience, found our way to Koutoubia Mossque picking up a tasty little pastry from a little cafe along the way, then back to the riad for more tea. After tea we wandered around the corner to suss out Kosybar, plans for drinks there tonight, then tossed up walking or a taxi to Jardin Majorelle (about 2kms) which was owned by Yves Saint Laurent until his recent death. We compromised and took a horse drawn cart after bargaining the driver down to 120 dirhams - luckily we did as it was a bit tricky to find (in the new city). The gardens ($5 entry) were well, gardens, I'm sure Jules enjoyed them, had a coffee in the gardens cafe (not that flash) and then decided to try our luck and walk back which was a bit of a chore but we eventually found our way back to the main square, checked out a few places and then into the Souks (markets). Didn't really take our fancy to buy anything, just like Melbourne market on a bigger scale, and we were told things would be cheaper and more authentic where we were going into the mountains tomorrow. Jules hadn't quite got the hang of staying right, so as to avoid the motorbikes and scooters, they go everywhere, so we get accosted by these guys offering friendly hints and then realise they are trying to get you to go somewhere with them. We resist and find out way back to the square and decide it's beer-o'clock - it always is somewhere anyhow. We head to the rooftop bar at Kosybar near our riad for birthday beers. A small bowl of spiced olives arrive and a couple of Casablancas are ordered. Place is full of westerners, mainly poms. A table at the front overlooking the plaza becomes free so we move to it & brace ourselves for the cold wind. I order 2 more beers and the waiter says can we pay now as he has to go - 240 dirhams. Problem is I only have about 120 on me as I was advised not to carry that much, so 5 min dash back to the riad and all is good (we'd fiorgotten the ciggies anyway). Back to the riad for a warming scotch or two before heading back to the main square for the night markets & the famous foodstalls. The spruikers are everywhere trying to get you to take a seat at their stall "you remember 117", yeah sure buddy. "Where you from?", "Australia", "Kangasroo" or "Oh, sheep shaggers cousins", they've got it all sussed. Hisham and Mohammed recommended #14 but it goes 12, 13, 15, so we settle on # 75 as he was the most persistent, and funny, he was also the only one to show us the menu and admitted to us that they're all the same anyway.Bread, fantastic dipping sauces (citrus/chilli, tomato/coriander/spices), peppers and assorted vegetables, then mixed skewers of meat and vegatables - all that for 210 dirhams (less than 30 bucks). There were some young poms seated next to us and the waiter kept taking the piss by saying "lovely jubberly" to them constantly! Been a long day of walking, so we retire to the riad for a nightcap on the rooftop terrace which has become a nice little retreat.

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