A Week in Marrakech

---

It's difficult to sum up a busy week after it's over, especially when you've been enjoying it with someone else, but in the interests of long-distance voyerism and journalistic total coverage, I'll give it my best shot.

On Sunday after a tasty breakfast overlooking the main square of Djemaa el Fna I decided to continue getting lost - I mean explore the area - until I had to leave for the airport to collect Clement. The disparities here are striking - the motorbikes speeding past the donkey carts, the shops selling wares reflecting centuries of tradition next to shops selling televisions, cellphones and knock-off CDs. In this way I discovered a second route to our fantastic yet laid-back riad, Tlaata wa Sitteen, which I was thrilled to move into after another night in the busy and loud backstreets surrounding the main square. Beautiful mosiacs, feather-filled coverlets, gauzy curtains and a lovely roof terrace for breakfasts, all lit up by candlelight in the evenings. C'est magnifique!

Clement and his baggage made it all right considering the three continents and nearly twenty-four hours of travel required to get here. We managed to finally get a taxi back into town after threatening to take the bus instead - the taxi drivers here are the greediest I've ever come across - and as we drove in Clement confirmed some of my own initial impressions of Marrakech. How nice to have a travel companion, and such a handsome one at that!

In the early evening we ventured through the souks into Djemma el-Fna. Although the action was just getting started the square was already quite busy, as it would be every night: fresh orange juice and dried fruit sellers ringed the square, while the north center was filled with food sellers offering a variety of snail soup, various meaty brochettes and french fries, sheep's heads, mint tea, fried fish, and boiled eggs, among other things. As there were many copies of the same stall the workers were quite vocal in trying to get you to their own place of business, and interspersed among the madness and the tourists were children hawking anything and everything and many old ladies begging. One is especially vulnerable as one stops for an orange juice - less than $0.50 a pop - and tries to survey the crowd and get one's bearing. I recall eating at a restaurant on the outskirts of the square that evening - vegetable couscous and chicken tagine - although we may have succumbed to another meal within the hubbub itself. The dates of the meals run together but nearly every night found us at Djemma el-Fna - indeed, where else would one go at night in the medina of Marrakech?

Monday was a day for making plans for later in the week, and the afternoon found us back in the souk searching for Ali ben Youssef Medersa, Koubba Ba'adiyn and the Musee de Marrakech. The Merdersa is exquisite and has been active as a theological college since the 14th century, although it has been updated many times. It is hard for an American to comprehend the weight of history in such a place. As we walked around the students' cells we tried to imagine how they lived and what their lives were like, which was of course even more difficult for me, as only male students were allowed to study here. The main attraction of the Musee de Marrakech was the building itself, a beautiful 19th-century palace with the most fantastic central courtyard I've seen.

By Tuesday we were suitably worn out to enjoy ourselves at the Bains de Marrakech, listed in the guidebook as a hammam but in reality a luxurious spa, where I proceeded to have the most extravagant bathing experience of my life. Rubbed with black soap and ghoussal, steamed, scrubbed clean, massaged with oil and left to rest in a lovely courtyard with mint tea, I wondered what it would be like to experience this each week. I could get used to this. Really. And of anyone ever leaves me a fortune I intend to dedicate some of it to steamy personal hygene.

It's difficult to recall what happened next, but I believe we wandered by the Koutoubia, from which we heard the call to prayer each day, among other sources, and in the evening we returned to the riad for one of the best meals of our stay, prepared by none other than our fantastic hostess, Ilham. The flavors and spices of the salad and the vegetable tagine stood out more than anything else for me during the week, and I believe that this meal more than any other awoke Clement's interest in Moroccan cuisine. We had some lovely company provided by four other riad guests, all from or living in France. One was a student of wine and had brought along some Moroccan varieties to try for the evening. Lovely.

Wednesday was dedicated to finding and enjoying the Jardin Majorelle and Museum of Islamic Art. Located right inside the city the garden is a haven from the hectic and grimy existence outside, and a beautiful place to spend a few hours of the day. In addition to an extensive cacti collection, cooling palms and beautiful displays of colorful bourgainvilleae the electric blue little house of former occupant Jacques Majorelle had a nice display of Islamic art, but for me the main attraction was outside among the fountains, turtles and plants.

Thursday required a rest from the hectic pace of Marrakech and we escaped to the lovely little seaside resort town of Essaouira, a place that I would definitely spend more time in during a return trip to Morocco. Sunny, peaceful, and full of both good shopping and - according to both Clement and the guidebook - good seafood, we spent what was easily one of the best days of the week. In particular I recall eating wonderfully fresh ripe strawberries while watching the waves of the Atlantic crash near beach-goers and soccer players. As we left we noticed camels giving rides at the far end of the beach. For next time.

Friday was notable as a day of endings, as we checked out of our lovely riad and I escorted Clement back to the airport in the afternoon for his trip home. How sad it is to say goodbye after such a lovely week together! Next time I hope we'll both be able to stay longer, and feel more sand between our toes.

---

Comments

[Amanda]

"Long Distance Voyeurism"... you make me feel so tawdry. LOL I'm loving all the pictures and am so glad you got to have a great time this week with Clem! I think about you often, on the other side of the world. Miss you!