Rabat and Fes

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Leaving the cool town of Essaouira we headed to Rabat for an overnight stop on our way to Fes. 8 hours later we arrived in Rabat and headed straight for the medina looking for another delicious tagine. Rabat, the capital, is pretty relaxed although as soon as we jumped in a taxi to get from the station and into town, a fight broke out between our driver and about four other taxi drivers who had blocked him in but refused to move. There was a lot of yelling, spitting, shoving and gesturing but finally the driver causing the problem, finally moved his car the 10cm required for us to get out. All the way into town, the driver told his passengers the story of what happened and laughed away looking forward to retelling the fight to his family - a slightly exaggerated version I'm sure.

Once again the rain followed us to Rabat but we had a good walk around when the sky cleared. Rabat seems to have more cafes than Paris. The Kasbah des Oudaias sits high up on the bluff overlooking the Oued Bou Regreg - a wonderful peaceful area of narrow alleys, white and blue walls, old mosques and the pretty Andalusian Gardens. Walking across town we headed to Le Tour Hassan built in 1195. The sultan intended to build the highest minaret in the Islamic world but he died before the project was completed and it was abandoned at 44m. Opposite is the intricate marble mausoleum of Mohammed V - a real surprise at the top of the hill. It is intensely patterned with mosaics from floor to ceiling.

Another bus, this time to Fes and another medina - Fes el-Bali - the largest living medieval Islamic city in the world. We had been warned that arriving at the main western gate - Bab Bou Jeloud is some of the worst hassle in Morocco and they did not disappoint. The owner of the guesthouse where we are staying had a huge argument with some guy who claimed to have brought us to the hotel and therefore expected commission. After half an hour of quarrelling, he was sent packing.

More walking around the medina - this time no map was going to help us, we just had to wander around and get lost - they say it is all part of the charm. After stumbling across the local produce market we finqlly found the tanneries, or at least smelt them, and all the touts who went with it. We finally found a terrace where we were allowed to watch the tanners without the hassle although it then involved looking at all the leather shops - camel, cow, sheep and goat skins. Wandering back through the medina to the Jewish quarter was mind boggling. Next stop - Dades Gorge.

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