Blogs from Anti-Atlas, Morocco, Africa

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Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas May 20th 2023

Today we drove from Ouarzazate to Taroudant, a 5 hour drive through the Anti Atlas. We thought this might become boring, but the scenery changed constantly. One minute we were driving through blackened outcrops of rock, eroded into layers and small boulders, next we were crossing semi arid plains with the occasional mesa rising above the level. It was dry, but there was scrubby vegetation in even the most desolate places. We passed ashepherd tending a small flock of sheep, and wondered where on earth he lived, given there was no sign of habitation for a good ten miles in either direction. We saw an old movie set of a gas station as seen in innumerable American films and TV series. On the other side of the road was a coal mine, who knew they mined ... read more
Gas Haven
Argan tree

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas May 18th 2023

We breakfast on the roof terrace in Marrakesh, a typical Moroccan breakfast of coffee, yoghurt, orange juice, with Moroccan pancakes (disappointing as usual) and bread. As we are getting up to leave “You like omelette?” so we sat down again. We eventually set off with our driver and our guide Houssain, driving through the posh end of town and heading south east under a leaden sky across a fairly arid, flat landscape dotted with scrubby trees, the Atlas mountains rising up in the distance. There are numerous part-started developments for resorts and housing estates, all semi-abandoned. Everything is terracotta or ochre coloured, all building are square and angular. After an hour or so we start to climb and twist our way up the road. It starts to rain a little and the wind is really strong. ... read more
Telouet kasbah
Audience hall at Telouet kasbah
Entrance doors, Telouet kasbah

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas January 26th 2020

23.01.20 Fes-Ifran- Ziz Valley This morning we left Fes for Ziz Valley, travelling through Ifran, a town you could be forgiven for thinking you had been transported to a Swiss village full of chalets.....and that also includes snow!Yeah baby, its snowing in Africa today! The higher we climb, the thicker it gets and we have to detour as the road we need to take is closedWe made a quick stop in Midelt to see the Barbary monkeys before heading to our hotel in Ziz Valley, one of the world's largest oasis. We've scored a tower room on the roof top, probably because there are only 7 people staying, but I'll take it. The views are lovely but there isnt much to do now until tomorrow except eat.Its the usual affair with salad and olives to start ... read more
Sahara
Sahara
Sahara

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas February 6th 2019

Getting out of bed to get dressed in our desert tent is definitely not fun. It’s bitterly cold, around or below freezing. But we have brought multiple layers to keep warm – thermal t-shirt, shirt, cashmere sweater, fleece jacket, shell jacket, hat, scarf and gloves. No thought of taking a shower, just put clothes on as fast as humanly possible and stagger up the dune to watch the sun rise, this time in perfect peace. We all head back to the main tent for breakfast, and huddle round the single patio heater, hands raised to the heat element as if worshipping a new pagan god of heat. We opt to return by 4x4 rather than camel, as David is keen to see what a 4x4 can do in the sand. The answer is impressive, though not ... read more
Desert sunrise
High Atlas with abandoned village
Pass over the High Atlas

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas February 4th 2019

It is really cold at 815am for breakfast. The space heater is in the dining room. Sara manages a couple of cups of tea and then wobbles, so it's back to bed for her. David doesn’t want to abandon her and go on the 4 hour plus excursion to Ait ben Haddou as she seems really poorly. So it's a morning of relaxation on the terrace, at least once it warms up by about 930 or 1000. Unusually for him, David makes friends with the cats. There are at least five of them, and they enjoy reclining on the sofa together, leaving no room for human intruders. Sara seems to have perked up a bit by lunchtime and manages to sit outside, and eat some toast, fruit and a few nuts. She then declares she is ... read more
Skoura palmerie
Selecting potatoes at market
Kasbah Amridil, Skoura

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas February 3rd 2019

The day dawns bright but cold, like fleece cold......we set off south east towards Skoura. This is a five hour drive, first across the plain and then up into the High Atlas. All does not go according to plan. The plain is dotted with miles of olive tree plantations. In the distance the mountains can be seen, the highest peak rising to around 10,000 feet. Morocco has the third highest peak in Africa. All along the route are hundreds of Gendarmerie Royale. The King is on the move today, apparently. He is either going to visit his people somewhere, which he often does, or else he is off hunting as he likes to shoot gazelle and sangliers. Anyway, all the senior brass are out as well, resplendent in their uniforms and gaudy braid. Maybe he will ... read more
Approaching the High Atlas from Marrakech
Nothing grows up here
Skoura oasis

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas March 21st 2018

Friday, 16 March – Ait Benhaddou Hertz gave us our diesel Peugeot 208 and whilst the weather had cleared enough to go see the Majorelle Gardens, we couldn’t find parking so we decided to forego it and make our way to the desert. Besides, we had a 4 hour drive and we didn’t know what blockers were ahead of us on the 200km stretch. Proudly, Dwayne mastered the art of driving like a mad Moroccan within a half hour! The dirt is extremely red everywhere. The rivers run red and you can see why the houses are all coloured with terracotta. In amongst all this red dirt are patches of bright green terraces where the locals harvest fields of millet. It’s quite the contrast. As we drove towards the High Atlas Mountains, the rain and fog ... read more
The drive up Tizi pass
Tizi pass at 2300m
What was on the other side of the snowy pass

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas February 24th 2018

I 'm tired ! Last night we stayed in a BEDOUIN camp in the Sahara desert . Our transportation into the desert was via camel ...The ship of the desert they say . I say a rather cumbersome beast who has an I credible sway when he walks which of course causes the rider to sway as well . His breadth is WIDE , REALLY and there is no where for your legs except to let them dangle.Trying too bend my knees and lift my legs just caused them to shiver and left me feeling more insecure . Going up and down the dunes was a challenge , leaning forward and hanging on for dear life going up and leaning back going down both required my whole attention. BUT it was worth it . Our night ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas December 10th 2017

Today is our first day in the desert and folks that is pretty much what it is. After a good sleep in and a lovely breakfast, although breakfast is a bit like tagines, pretty much the same every time. We head out for some ATC (All Terrain Camel). The driver (or leader) introduces us to our camels , Amhed, Aziz, Amal and Ronnie. Ronnie is mine. Ronnie is a very nice camel although he has a bit of a rumbly tummy and tends to poo and wee a lot. Technically there are no camels in Morocco and these are in fact dromedaries with only one hump. I have since discovered that the Schtookster duded us. He told us that they live 24 years when in fact they live for 40 (maybe that's just the way the ... read more
Gus and Bashir
Constance and Ronnie
The Schtookster

Africa » Morocco » Anti-Atlas December 8th 2017

So today's the big day. I have done most of the planning for the trip but Becs decided to intervene and fill in some of the gaps. I've briefed the kids and we will be looking for any "sub-optimal" experiences. Schtooky (phonetic) our driver turns up on time to take us to the Sahara, although we are stopping tonight at Kasbah Azul. I'm reasonably impressed as the Schtookster picked us up in a Toyota Landcruiser (although it was really a Prado and it only had 4 cylinders). It will take us about 9 hours all up to get to the Sahara and as we will be mainly snoozing in the car I've decided to combine both days. We drive through the High Atlas Mountains, the Ounila Valley and the Dra Valley which is home to 3 ... read more
Our tent
Sunset
Sand Boarding




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